Can't keep bindings from sliding (Slingshot fast track)
 

Just picked up a 2012 Slingshot Recoil and having a hard time keeping the bindings in place. The plastic wing nuts don't even come close to holding when hand tightened, and even using pliers won't keep my boots from sliding out as I ride. The bindings are 2012 Ronix Cells in case that matters. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Two things. 1) Ditch the plastic thumbscrews, they are and always will be worthless and will never stay tight. 2) Check to make sure that the bolts aren't too long. For the track system to work the bolts need to be short enough to pull the sliding part up and snug. If the bolts are bottoming out you aren't actually tightening anything down.

Thanks, Stephan. To clarify a little, on my setup the bolts slide into the track and come up from the board. The plastic "wing nuts" thread onto the bolt, so it's not possible to bottom out like you describe. I could ditch the plastic wing nuts in favor of nylock nuts, but I worry about over tightening something designed to be tightened by hand.

What he means by bottoming out is the top of the bolt hitting the top of the wingnut before they are tight enough. So technically, topping out.

The wingnuts are open on the top so the bolt can pass all the way. Appreciate the suggestions though!

I had the same problem. I just sent slingshot an email and they hooked me up with the 2013 hardware. You can probably just find bolts at the hardware store thatd work to keep the bindings in place.

i replaced the wingnuts for nylocks the first day, i did see a guy at wakenation who cut bamboo chopsticks to the size he needed and put them in as a stop in the track

i just threw some washers on and it works ok...front boot slips every ride though. having just picked up a recoil with my '11 rads, its pretty annoying how it doesnt work well. love the board though!

i plan on calling again about the '13 hardware again.

Can't you just buy some metal wing nuts?

Me too
 

I've got 12' rads on a 12' Response and am having the same issue. I was even able to break one of the thumbscrews by cranking on it so hard with my bare hands. I thought the board was going to come with the metal locks, as it shows in pictures and was kind of bummed on the thumbscrews, which have already been prone to failure after only around 10 sets. I emailed SS and they linked me to a page where I could buy a set of 4 screws, with metal nuts for $32. Kind of a disappointing reply.

go to home depot and pick up some stainless nylock nuts and stainless washer, cheap easy, just dont over tighten

I'd pay extra to get a SS board without the track. Honestly there is no advantage to that stupid system.
My work around which has worked awesome is to go and get two cheap bamboo chopsticks from asian restaurant.
Cut the thick round ends to the desired length and drop them into the track on the outside of your bindings screws.
Your bindings will never slide out again and the bamboo flexes with your board. you also don't have to over tighten the screws anymore.......

It sounds like you have the wrong hardware. I ride a 2011 reflex with 2012 one boots. the bolts come up from the bottom through the boot base plate. put the white nylon washers on top of the Ronix boot degree fittings and then you should have a metal nut with a Phillips top. tighten it up and it will never move. if thats the hardware they went to on the 2012 i would suggest getting the 2011 nuts.

2012 recoil with 2012 ktv's, i went to hardware store and grabbed SS nuts, put them on with a socket
wrench, cranked down super tight, they dont move, they stay tight, and nothing broke from over tightening...

I just got the 2013 hardware in the mail from slingshot. Gonna put it on tomorrow and see how it works.

I got the 2013 hardware and it didn't hold the first session, but I cranked it down about as tight as I could with a screwdriver and it's held tight for 2 sets now. Hopefully it's good to go now. Thanks for all the ideas!

My gf has the 2011 Kine and she had the same problem. I went to lowes and bought 4 small rubber washers, put them on the bolts cranked it down and has't moved since.

Brain,
I have the new hardware on my SS and Ronix bindings. I popped the ridged deg spacer off the Ronix hardware and used that, in addition to the new SS nuts. Works great, but there's a lot of bulk to it (not that it really matters). The better, tool-less, solution might be to order up the correct size stainless weld nuts from Grainger Supply, Fastenall, etc, use the weld nut in the track, and use unadulterated Ronix hardware. Something like this, perhaps: http://www.buckeyefasteners.com/imag...nd_blue_lg.jpg

I haven't had any issue with my sliding. I don't have twist screws. I have large, bulky chrome screws with a plastic washer. Mine never come loose. I will post a pic for reference.

Hey guys, here's what I went and put on there... 2012 Kine with 2011 Ronix cells. Placed the Grommet face down into the little plastic ronix tooth holder, washer over that, and nylon washer over top of that. Now I'm pushing into metal, with metal, and pulling up on metal. These suckers are locked on there like grim death.

Oh... and broke the bank at a whopping $1.83 haha :)

That works! Here is what my 2012 Hooke and RADs (before I swapped them out for KTVs) came with... never come loose.

Can someone post a pic of how they put Company boots on a SS?

Brain Rinse, here is how it looks with the Ronix degree spacer. Hasn't budged yet.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-N...914_220637.jpg

Just installed with the cap nut above. I'm worried that during the process of dialing in my bindings that the phillips head is going to get buggered up...if they indeed stay tight.

Looks like there is a drop of blue loc-tight on the threads.

If you use the right size screwdriver the head will last forever

The head is, in fact, a bit soft. A big screw driver works well. I can now attest to the fact that the above combo really holds. I did a nasty face plant this weekend (hit so hard my upper eye lids folded under). Bindings didn't budge.

I have a Lyman with Ones and y hardware looks like Rob Vlx's and Deminnis setup. First few ties when hand tightened w a big screwdriver my bindings would slip a little. I went to a ratchet drive phillips bit and haven't had any issues since.
@ Deminnis, had a couple of those, make sure to pay attention when spinning the board (surface) don't catch an edge on the Lyman, you will stop fast!

First time poster here, and beginner wake-boarder. I had same issue trying to mount Ronix Parks to a Slingshot shredtown board. Here's how I did it :-

1) I placed the boots over the T-bolt.
2) I took the plastic washers (that mesh with the boot slider receptor) with the metal threaded hole and drilled all of them out just large enough to slide the T-bolt through.
3) I took the screw on plastic knobs and used a dremel tool and shaved off the corners of them.
4) I applied anti-seize to the plastic knobs.

This allows
a) the bolts to easily tighten (the anti-seize).
b) the shaved corners allows the bolt knobs to pass easily by the boot upper.
c) the washer to be used with the T-bolt (by drilling it out).

Had I known it was going to be this much of a PITA, I would have reconsidered matching these two pieces of equipment. However, I really liked the board, and the bindings are super plush. I tried the Shredtown's bindings first and didn't care for how they fit my feet.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-p...208_180036.jpg