amp - <a href="http://shop.store.yahoo.com/discountsonline/phgota404car.html" target="_blank">http://shop.store.yahoo.com/discountsonline/phgota404car.html</a> <BR> <BR>subs (2 of them) - <a href="http://www.woofersetc.com/product.asp?0=314&amp;1=318&amp;3=1471" target="_blank">http://www.woofersetc.com/product.asp?0=314&amp;1=318&amp;3=1471</a> <BR> <BR>i am redoing my system in my xstar. i have 2 of these amps that i could use....one amp to each, but its gonna be a darn tight fit for the amps and also, i already have the subs wired inside the box in parallel. any opinions?

If each sub is showing the amp 4ohms you'll get approx 200 watts RMS running the amp bridged @ 14.4 volts. I'm sure your boat doens't run @ 14.4 probably closer to 13.5. I'll put my vote in for pushing them harder. but if that's all you have then use it.

this amp should power them fine, is a good quality amp that pushes out lots of power <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;category=39737&amp;item =5745082177&amp;rd=1" target="_blank">http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;category=39737&amp;item =5745082177&amp;rd=1</a>

My experience w/ fosgate amps is that they run extremely hot. You'd have to run it in the 2ohm bridged mode to get the power...I couldn't imagine how hot that would get. Better question is how much do you wanna spend? Look for a regulated power supply, cooling fans, class D would be optimal.

My recommendation would be similar to <b>adam's</b>. Go for a higher powered Class D subwoofer specific amp. You'll end up getting two amps out of your boat and replacing them with one amp that will make those new JL's shine. If you shell out enough $$$, you can get an amp that can run at 1ohm, which will make sure your subs get every bit of available power. <BR> <BR>(Message edited by bigdeal on January 24, 2005)

Matt - I have had great luck with hifonics stuff. If you picked up a couple of the DVC 4 ohm JL subs and wired them to the amp so it would see 1 ohm - this amp would make those JL's move. <BR> <BR><a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;category=18797&amp;item =5746231965&amp;rd=1" target="_blank">http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;category=18797&amp;item =5746231965&amp;rd=1</a> <BR> <BR>One thing to consider - i wish i had gone with some 12's instead of 10's. If you have the room for the bigger boxes the 12's will give you that little extra spl needed in a boats "open air" environment. Good luck.

one concern i do have is the amps getting hot. i just got a new amp with a cooling fan built into it for the tower speakers (NVS1's) but i know it will still be warm down there in the passenger compartment. <BR> <BR>Muji - unfortunately, i dont have room for the 12's. i have room for one 12, but not 2. i already have the box built for it. <BR> <BR>right now, i had one amp pushing the 2 subs. it was ok last summer, but i do remember it overheating a few times. so, i guess i should rephrase the question.....what amp should i get to push BOTH subs that wont overheat?

what are you using to push the NVS?

adam - i got the PPI PCX 4125. it was recommended by duane (the guy that sells the NVS1's) <BR>

Does that amp bridge down to 250 x2 @ 4ohms? Off the subject, but how much tower movement do you have when hitting doubleups/ boat rollers w/ the 1010's up there?

i havent finished installing them yet, so i dont know. i got so much going on right now, the first minute i have to finish installing everything, i want to get it done. <BR> <BR>so...any other suggestions on what ONE amp i should look into to push these two subs? like Mike said, i am looking for an amp that wont get too hot. Muji - i look at that amp. looks good, just trying to explore my options and get a few more opinions. <BR> <BR>Thanks for the help.

matt, i do run the high end Hifonics amp at 1.5 ohms (3 ohm JL's) and it has never gone into thermal shut down mode (even in 110 deg. days) and my sub amp is buried behind the drivers kick panel, so it gets no air movement. I can't comment on the BX1000D directly though. If you wanted to run the amp at 2 ohms you can look at the 1500 - just be careful, these amps really push out the published RMS wattage - i went through a couple of real expensive sets of fosgate and MTX subs pretty quickly pushing more than the published sustained wattage through them.

It's discontinued, but if you can find a JBL BP1200.1, you should be able to buy an EXREMELY capable amp for a song. (I just checked Froogle.com and there is one available NEW for less than $300.) <BR> <BR>It's a class-D sub amp that is stable to 1 and 2 ohms. I use, like and recommend this series with no reservations. I currently use a 300.1 in my boat on a JL 8w3 and a 600.1 in my SUV with a 10" AudioMobile. I'm getting another 600.1 in the near future for my car. These amps are awesome.