White oil help
 

We just bought a 1983 ski supreme. The boat started fine but we checked the oil and it is white. What can cause this? Also the tranny fluid just looks like regular oil. The boat has a 351 v8. Any help would be apreciated.

Water in the oil... Got a leak somewhere in the block..

Brandon is correct. Try changing oil first. If the new oil turns white, you may have a problem.

The transmission may take regular motor oil. Some of the older boats do. Check the serial number on the transmission and contact the manufacturer.

could be a number of thing like a bad water pump, blown head gasket, or a craked block just a name a few. do a compression check on the cylinders and find out what they are reading.

Like others said, white oil means you have water in the oil. There is nothing good that causes that. The question is how bad is it. Do you need new head gaskets or a whole new block? Did it have white oil before you purchased the boat or is that new?

If the boat has been sitting, it could just be condensation. Change the oil and see what's up.

like john said could be condensate so change the oil and hope for the best if it turns white again you have a blown head gasket or a cracked block and as for the trans it is a Borg warner velvet drive and takes ATF good luck......H

like john said it could be condensate so change the oil and hope for the best if it turns white again it is a blown head gasket or a cracked block as for the trans. it is a Borg warner Velvet drive and takes ATF good luck.........H

What kind of oil should I be running in that boat? Its the 351 V8. Thanks

when I had an older ski boat with a 351W I ran valvoline 40W I now have a much newer boat and still run valvoline 40W but use the racing formula instead of just the plain valvoline

It's more common in the transmission (Since it's lower in the hull) but it could be that the previous owner left the plugs in and the boat was rained in repetitively (Happens more often than you'd think). The standing water then made its way into the oil pan through any number of points of entry.

Check the engine compartment for a water line where the oil and grime rose to and stuck to the hull, engine block etc. That's a dead giveaway that there was a significant amount of water left standing in there. If this is the case inspect all of the electrical components below the water line (Starter, blower, alternator?, etc) and prepare for the likely failure of those components in the short term.

If you don't see a water line I agree with what the others have said. Change the oil and hope for the best because it could very likely be condensation that sank to the bottom as it formed but then was churned up and suspended in the oil when you ran it.

Also do you how to drain the oil out, or do you suck it up throught the dip stick tube? Thanks

Not sure about the Ski Supreme (Mercruiser inboard?) but usually there's a drain hose that has a cap on the end somewhere in the bilge (Coming from the oil pan). Locate it and it should be long enough to feed out out through the drain hole. Remove the cap and put the end of the hose into an old oil bottle or something. Open the fill cap on the valve cover when draining the oil to break the vacuum but it will likely still come out very slowly.

It takes a couple of hours for all of the oil to drain from the Indmar 5.7L in my MasterCraft and my neighbor says it takes just as long to drain from the PCM engine in his Nautique. To accelerate the process you can hook a hand pump to the drain hose and suck it out. Ideally you should drain into a container that will give you some indication of how much oil has drained so you know when you're done.

To remove the oil filter get a gallon zip lock bag. Break the filter loose with a wrench then put the bag around the filter and back it off the rest of the way. Once it starts leaking into the bag pause until oil stops flowing into the bag then back it off all the way and seal up the bag. This should keep the oil that ends up in the bilge to a minimum.

BTW, you could suck it up through the dipstick tube if you prefer but using the pump on the drain hose will likely get more of the old oil out.

Okay I change the oil more than once to get the water out, three times to be exact. Put a new filter on and used the 40weight oil. I also used the sunction method at the end of the hose which made changing the oil multiple times pretty fast. I guess this is all a learning experience. Also do any of you know how to find out where the water is going into the block if it continues to do this? The other question I have is on the side of the block below each park plug is a indented circle. A couple of the circles have a rust line running down. What does that mean? I assume it is water or oil that has been burned by the heat of the engine block.

It sounds like you're describing core or freeze plugs.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Core_plug

Probably no big deal if they have some surface rust.

water/coolant into the oil system in automotive engines is usually from a deteriorating headgasket transferring oil into the cooling passages in the head.
the oil pressure is higher than the cooling system pressure so the oil wins the battle.

If it's still milky after oil change you have a cracked block/head (improper winterization) or a blown head gasket (check compression), leaky intake gasket, or extremely rarely a leaking timing cover gasket. That's all that could allow water into the oil on a small block Ford.