hey all, <BR> <BR>I have a 97 supersport. The v-drive has water in it and I'm not sure if it is leaking or just left over from when the boat was submerged. If it is cracked/leaking is there any way that is fairly cheap(under 2000) to fix it. I have been looking at new v-drives and they are around $5000. can a buy one for cheaper? Thanks for the help

Make sure you drain and refill the trans/v-drive before running it, then drain and refill a couple times after getting it warm. I'd try that before I'd go through the trouble/expense of replacement. <BR> <BR>If it was submerged there may be other problems too. I'd make sure to flush out all the fluids in the boat and install a new water seperator. <BR>

not sure how your boat works but mine has a cooler on it. your problem could also be there...especially if you run in salt and dont flush....good luck but since it was submerged i would suck out all the old oil fill er up and let er rip check it after a while if its good to go rock out if not........welll seals, or cooler should be your next look.........good luck man

Cody, <BR> <BR>What kind of V-drive is it. Walter, Hurth??? <BR> <BR>Sounds like you have a definate seal leak. All you would need is to have the lower seal replaced. You would still need to remove the V-drive unit to do so. <BR>Most V-drives do have a cooling system and have the raw water hose run through it first before it goes to the engine. You could possibly send it back to the manufacturer to see if they can rebuild it for you. I know with Watler V-drives they will send you out a new one within 2 weeks but I do not know if they do rebuilds. <BR> <BR>If you wanted a brand new V-drive you should be able to get one for around $2k- $2.5k tops. <BR> <BR>Check out Waltergear.com and hurth websites. <BR>

I just checked and waltergear will rebuild V-drives to new specs. But it has to be a walter.

It's a Walter for sure in a supersport. Was the water mixed in the oil? It does have water cooling and the water and oil plugs look the same but if the boat was submerged, that probably answers my question. <BR> <BR>I'd change the oil a couple times and make sure it is a leak before doing anything. Taking it out isn't all that bad if you need to go that way

Hey thanks for your help guys. It is a walter v-drive. And I guess I'll change the oil a couple of times before I assume anything else. <BR> <BR>Shawn, Yea the water was mixed in the oil. The dipstick looked like it was dipped in a milkshake. <BR> <BR>Also I can't find anywhere what kind oil it takes, does anyone know off hand what kind of oil a v-drive takes... Is it dextron III or just straight weight oil?

Cody, Please listen to Shawn he knows what he is talking about...all the way upto knowing about transmissions. PCM Makes there own transmission for there motors and CC uses them. The transmission in you SS is made by PCM. probably a POWERPLUS 1.23-1.0 Call your LOCAL CC dealer and tell him your situation. They will direct you in the right direction about which oil to use.

The walter v-drives use SAE HD 30 weight motor oil. It should take only 1 Qt if its a smaller unit and 1 1'2 half quarts if it is Larger than the RV26D. If you leave me a fax number I can fax you all of the info for the Walter V-Drive units. It has info on parts, removal, oil change, water draining, etc... NOT Transmission oil!!!!!!! <BR> <BR>Look on the front plate of the V Drive unit and tell me what number yours is. It should be like a RV 10d, RV20d, RV26d !!! or something like that.

TJK,. <BR> <BR>Not all PCM's have there own tranny's in them. I know of a number that have Hurth Tranny's in them. <BR>

Yup, TJK is absolutely right about the transmission...PCM makes it and Nautique used it in the SS. However, what Cody asked about was the V-DRIVE and not the transmission. <BR> <BR>The V-drive is DEFINATELY made by Walter and takes 30W motor oil as E said. If you have not cleaned the filter screen, you may want to do that. It is on the engine side at the bottom. A pain to get to so you'll want to take out the back seat and middle floor board. Once you get all that apart and back together, the liquid black vinyl stuff that have at Home Depot or Lowes works great to seal up any damage to the protective coating that usually happens from tools.

<b>e double u</b> fax number is 801 278 8414. That would be awesome if you could fax that. I don't know what the model is because the boat is about 2 hrs away. <BR> <BR>Shawn, I'll try the filter screen next weekend. once you get the seats out is it east to spot the screen, or what do I look for? Thanks

Cody, <BR>Check your fax I just sent all the info to you. <BR>Good luck <BR>Erik

By the way my Wife Graduated from Utah State back in 1994. I have been up to Logan many times. <BR>

Cody, <BR> <BR>You can't really see the screen and as expected. the oil needs to be drained first. If you have the boat owners manual or the material that E-W sent, it should have details on cleaning the screen. It is on the back side, very bottom of the v-drive. Once you get the bolt loose, it is about a 3" long cylindrical screen. It is a big bolt in the middle of the drive that's a pain to get to with very little room to work. The screen is pretty fine and any sludge that may have formed from the water may have gotten caught. I don't think many people clean that screen and I really doubt it is a source of failure very often, but it wouldn't hurt.

hey thanks guys... <BR> <BR>E double u... thanks for the fax, I haven't checked the fax machine yet, but I'm sure that'll all help a lot. <BR> <BR>Shawn... I'll attempt to get at the screen, i'll let ya know how it goes

Cody: <BR> <BR>A seal leak would not account for water getting into the transmission/Vdrive. If you have a seal leak, you would be making an oil mess in the bottom of the boat. <BR> <BR>If the transmission was submerged for any length of time then water could easily have entered the transmission through the vent. <BR> <BR>It is also possible that the oil cooler (assuming the transmission has one) has failed. This is the only place where transmission fluid and water get any where close to each other. <BR> <BR>As a first step I would change the oil, then run the boat for about twenty minutes and change it again. This will be sure to eliminate any water in the transmission. After the second oil change watch it closely for the first few hours of operation. If you see signs of water, or a significant change in the oil level STOP before you ruin the transmission/Vdrive. <BR> <BR>

Cody, <BR> <BR>Rod is right in a couple points. The oil breather vent on the Walter V_drive will let in water if it is submerged, and you may have an oil mess if there was a seal leak but only if the gasket failed as well. <BR>Everybody- His transmission is not the problem its the V-drive. The Tranny and v-drive are connected through a adapter housing that has 2 seals one on each end. For water to get inside there it would have to go through 2 gaskets and then the 2 seal to get into the tranny or V-drive.. SO that is highly unlikely. <BR>I'm with Rod that the most likely entry point for that water was the Oil breather vent when it was submerged. It is on the info I sent you, Its also the place where you put the oil back into your v-drive.