Im replacing the remote on the back of my Moomba LSV and need to seal around the holes... Its above the waterline, but can get submerged when the water gets choppy or coming off plane... <BR> <BR>Ive been told about 3M 5200, but it says its permanent and I dont think I need to permanently bond it to the boat... <BR> <BR>Would a good waterproof silicone based caulk work just as good? <BR> <BR>I just need to seal the holes, the remote does not sit completely flush from the small curve in the transom... <BR> <BR>Thanks...

Think I found the answer by digging through the search: <BR> <BR>David_e_m wrote: <BR>Please don't use 5200. It's permanent. If you need to remove the clamshell, the gelcoat might come with it. <BR> <BR>For underwater penetrations we use a poly caulk versus silicon because it stays plyable forever. This is what we use for thru-hull sonar on 50 ft. boats, which is tonage of displacement and have never had a leak. <BR> <BR>But your penetration will be above the waterline so 3M silicon is ideal.

That is the answer tailgate.

I back your quote of David's response as well. Stay away from 5200 for this sort of work. <BR> <BR>A good clear silicone is appropriate, but yellows with time. <BR> <BR>3M 4000 is better when compared with 5200 and doesn't yellow like silicone. I believe there is a poly-sulfide out there with the brand name LifeCaulk; that might be what David's comment suggests. <BR> <BR>Regardless your decision on what to use, here is a little tip for you to consider: <BR>Prior to mounting the remote, get a countersink chucked up in your drill and run the drill backwards in the screw holes, putting a small chamfer into the gelcoat and fiberglass around the screw hole. When you put your "goop" in and around the screw holes, the sealer can go into the chamfer and it provides a "donut-shaped" ring of "goop" around the screws. Loosely tighten the screws, and then wait for the sealer to dry. When you finish tightening the screws, you will compress that "donut" and provide a tighter seal. The chamfered out area around the hole also provides a place for "squeeze-out" to go, rather than out in little blobs around the edges your remote. Sometimes it will not eliminate it, but it will always help. <BR> <BR>Phil <BR>Kicker

The plan is to see no silicone at all, all behind the remote and inside the holes... <BR> <BR>Thanks for the tips... <BR> <BR>Hopefully Ill get around to this tomorrow...

No silicone is needed. The remote should have a rubber backing that self seals.

Adam, it does, but the surface it is mounted on is not completely flat, so the middle has about 1-1.5 mm of gap, I sealed it over the weekend, and think it should work pretty good, since the original remote had none at all... and there is no visibly caulk line around the remote, so it is clean...

use silicone. 5200 you will break the remote or peel gelcoat if you try to take it off.

tailgate, <BR> <BR>I wouldn't use a poly caulk (lifecaulk) above the waterline. 3M silicon is perfect. <BR> <BR>Using silicon around a hot light fixture will accelerate the clear turning to brown. Also, constant exposure on a cruiser will eventually lead to yellowing. But on a towboat that is stored under cover, you'll have no worries for a very very long time. <BR> <BR>Besides using silicon as a gasket, as you are, we typically use silicon to fill and dress seams so the mineral spots don't collect (looks kind of like rust after several seasons on some lakes). A good product like 3M works famously. <BR> <BR>We also frequently use thin KingStarboard contour blocks to level out curved surfaces for remotes, underwater lights and much more. <BR> <BR>David <BR>Earmark Marine

5200 for everything below the water line. Silicon for everything above the water line.