So here is what i am thinking. I have an 01 expedition 4wd. I am trying to debat what route i want to go with it. To lift it with a 6" lift and 35" tires 14.5" wide or to leave it stock with 22" or 24" wheels and tires. I am leaning towards the lifted way but not sure how the expo will handle being lifted and how much is my gas milage going to drop? Any comments on how lifted suvs tow and also if big wheels and tires affect towing at all? Thanks Josh <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/450917.jpg" alt="Upload"> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/450918.jpg" alt="Upload"> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/450919.jpg" alt="Upload">

I take it, it is 4wd right. If you do the bottom pic, that pretty much makes the 4wd worthless. I would lift it, but maybe not as much as the top pics.

i had a 2000 exp with 4" lift and 33" tires. looked good and didnt really change the gas mileage. wish i had a pic ..

found one...<img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/450932.jpg" alt="Upload">

Just my opinion, but I don't think 1/2 tons do well with lifts and big tires, unless you really plan on babying it. <BR> <BR>Again my opinion: but /I think stock vehicles tow best and you'll get the most life out of your rear end and trani.

buy a Tahoe

seriously, cut your losses and buy a tahoe (full disclosure: I live in michigan and have to deal with Matt Millen, so I can't even say the f word)

I have a lifted F-150(same drivetrain) that runs 36x15.50's. It tows well....after the 4.56 gears, eaton supercharger, long tube headers and all the other bolt on crap you could put on it. Gas mileage sucks at about 9 mpg towing,but it is payed for and gas costs me way less than a monthly payment cause I ONLY pay at the pump.If you lift it with no gear swap mileage WILL suffer, so will towing ability. I would estimate running what you say you'll probably loose 3-4 m.p.g. unloaded. Hard to say towing. <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/450996.jpg" alt="Upload">

Sicking looking set up.

Hey Rod. That expo looks just like mine except no lift and stock tires. Looks nice. How wide was your tire? They look like 12.5's. I bought the expo so i have a small monthly payment so i can finish building my truck (classic show truck all custom). I also got a good deal on it. I would prefer lifting it. Just never had a lifted vehicle before and am a little curious on how it drives after it being lifted and the sound of the tires. How does lifted suv's handle? How expensive is it to change out the gears in the rear end? What would be a good ratio? I am still thinking a about 35x14.5 tires with an 18" rims. Maybe 16" rims. We will see. Next week i am hoping to have my mind made up so i can start buying stuff. So please keep the pointers and comments comming. Thanks Josh

That particular vehicle does not do well lifted with regards to wear and tear goes on the rig. You'll lose around 4 miles to the gallon have a rough and noisy ride. Your towing capacity will decline a bit as well. You'd really need a bigger rear end which again is going to cost you at the pump and it's tough an upper control arms and ball joints. I'd look at going the other way and dropping it a bit and putting 22's on it or just leave it the standard ride heighth.

When you say my towing capacity will decline a bit that might be a problem. I have an 06 MC X15. I think it weighs 4400lbs. Not sure exactly but i think the max tow weight is 5000lbs. Now regarding wear and tear i don't drive the expo much at all. I only really drive it when towing the boat and i would like to start going to the dunes. Thanks for your help. <BR> <BR>Josh

It's not that the actuall weight rating of the suspension will be lower, it is just the added weight and larger diameter of the tires will in effect raise your overall gear ratio. This hurts torque and makes it tougher to pull a load. You would most likely see accelerated wear on suspension components like ball joints and tie rod ends. Transmissions take some brunt of that abuse also. A gear change to get back to your stock ratio would bring some of the lost umpf back, but not all of it. Towing at fwy speeeds will suck with out the gear change. The trans will hunt in and out of o/d with any slight rise in the road. <BR> I take my truck to the dunes also, but I had to address pretty much every part of the drivetrain to get it to MY LIKING. Did gears, beefed up the trans, added larger trans cooler and radiator,and I have also done ball joints a few times <BR>For me I did all the work myself so it cost me quite a bit less than if I was to pay for it a t a shop, but I would guess you would pay a bout 1500- 2200$ for both front and rear gear swaps.

Looks pretty good already. Save the hassle.

"i would like to start going to the dunes." <BR> <BR>You will blow stuff up doing that! No way can a stock truck handle playing at the dunes, let alone a lifted truck with more forces acting on it, that has more HP to boot. Actually I would consider it dangerous, as things can fly off when landing, like wheels. <BR> <BR>(Message edited by Peter_C on May 22, 2007)

stock with stock wheels is the way to go

<img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/452475.jpg" alt="Upload">

Pic above. 06 Tahoe front leveling kit rear spacers 33" tires 13.5 mpg towing

Lift it!

Lift that sum bich up!