Sub amp: <BR>RCA's to headunit sub out <BR>remote power wire to head unit <BR>2nd remote power wire to 2ch tower spkr amp <BR>positive/negative power wires to distro block with twr amp power wires then to battery <BR> <BR>Tower 2ch amp: <BR>RCA's to headunit front spkr <BR>Remote pwr wire to amp sub <BR>positive/negative power wires to distro block with sub amp power wires then to battery <BR>2 twr spkrs bridged (2 positive spkr wires to 1 positive on amp - same with neg) <BR> <BR>4 channel amp: <BR>RCA's to headunit Rear <BR>Power remote wire to Headunit <BR>Power wires to battery (positive to distro fuse block) <BR>4 boat spkrs to amp <BR> <BR>2 boat spkrs: <BR>wired directly to headunit rear

Sounds right to me.

First: make sure your head unit can handle running both the speaker level outs and the RCA outs from the rear. Not sure, and my manual is not near by, but I think my Clarion CMD3 does not allow you to use speaker outs and RCA outs at the same time. <BR> <BR>Second: Why are you running your 2 tower speakers bridged (and by bridged you mean the pos is on channel 1 and neg is coming from channel 2).You are loosing the left and right by doing this. You have a 2 channel amp, run one speaker to each channel. If you think you are getting twice the power bridged, you are, but it is split between two speakers, same as running them straight.

T running your towers bridges is fine if your amp can handle the lower ohm load. This will actually give your tower speakers more power. You don't need stereo sound when the speakers are 4 feet apart and your listening to them from 70' back

First: my mystake, what I was thinking of was not to run a amp from speaker level inputs and RCA inputs at the same time. <BR> <BR>Second: Running bridged does give you twice the power but you are spliting that power between two speakers, the same as if you were running them each from their own channel. As well, you will be running your amp at 2 ohms load bridged, and 4 ohms straight which will create alot less heat and minimize chance of overheating. And you will have stereo for those in the boat by using their own channels.

T, you are correct, about the RCA's and line out. I thought of that, but I assumed (I know, I'm sorry) that she had checked and her HU would handle the load. <BR> <BR> As far as the amp, I thought of that too, but it's 6 of one, half dozen of the other. didn't think it was worth mentioning. Actually she's running them in parallel, so she is back to a 4 Ohm load.

T I agree with everything you say except it will give your speakers DOUBLE THE POWER. For example. You have an amp that does 150x2 RMS @ 4 ohms. Bridge that amp and it will be giving you 600x1 RMS @2 ohms. That will be giving each speaker 300watss RMS. If its a decent amp and rated to be 2 ohm stable, it should have no problem with overheating. He is using a seperate 2 channel amp so there is no reason why he needs to worry about supply stereo sound to the boat.

I will check the headunit to see if I can run an amp and the speakers to the unit. Thanks guys. I didn't know to check that. <BR>I am runing the tower amp bridged because I thought it would make my tower speakers a little louder.

My tower amp specifically says you can bridge with it with speakers rated at 4ohms. Running two MB Discus up there.

When you run two 4ohm speakers in parallel you create a 2ohm load which many amps can not handle.

Mike - I agree with what you are saying, we are on the same page. Ronia needs to make sure the amp is rated for 2ohms bridged if she is running as she has described.

Here are the specifics of my tower amp: <BR><a href="ftp://inform.kenwoodusa.com/MANUALS/KAC6201.pdf" target="_blank">ftp://inform.kenwoodusa.com/MANUALS/KAC6201.pdf</a> <BR> <BR>It looks like I should be able to bridge my 4ohm tower speakers(wired parallel) ... correct?

No, your amp will not handle a bridged 2ohm load (thats what two 4ohm spearkers in parallel will pull). Look at the the Specifications - Rated power output (2 ohms)section there is no bridged choice like listed under the 4ohms. If your amp was safe bridged at 2ohms it would list a bridged rating. Does this make sense? <BR> <BR>If you are going to run it bridged, it is only rated for 4 ohms bridged. <BR> <BR>(Message edited by tbonus on July 18, 2006)

Then why in the speaker selection section does it specifically show two 4ohm speakers being bridged in the instructions?

How do I get it 4ohm bridged?

I see what you are saying. I'll just wire it up normally. Thanks for letting me know!

Ronia You can get 4 Ohms bridged, by running 4 speakers. Instead of putting two speakers in parallel, put two pairs of speakers in parallel. Each pair will be in series. <BR> <BR>T, sorry about that. I was thinking 2 Ohms. 2+2 = 2*2. ... I was thinking about 2 Ohms, but talking about 4. ... Sorry.

Robb, I get it. Thanks. <BR>Everything else looks good though right? And I checked the headunit, I can use RCAs and then wire the bow speakers directly to the headunit wires.

Looks like it's time to thump.

So what speakers did u get for the tower? What sub?

I'm using my old MB Discuss speakers on the tower -- going to replace though in the winter. Just replaced 6 Alpine speakers in the boat with 6 Polk DB650's. The sub is a 12inch Crossfire (I think) ... getting a custom box built for it now, painted yellow to match the boat. I'll post pics when it's all done. Should be finished next week.

Ronia - the picture at the bottom of the page is showing two 4 ohm speakers in parallel. They are going to the same channel and you can see it is showing a combined load of 2 ohms. That is not a bridged diagram. A bridged diagram would have 2 channels showing (ie 2 positive and 2 negative hook ups and you would use 1 positive from one channel and the negative from the other channel). <BR> <BR>Look at page 2, middle of the page *speaker stereo connections and *speaker bridge connection. Notice the difference?

yup. Got it. Thanks.