Check these out... <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/335582.jpg" alt="Upload"> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/335583.jpg" alt="Upload"> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/335584.jpg" alt="Upload"> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/335585.jpg" alt="Upload"> <BR>

more...<img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/335589.jpg" alt="Upload"> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/335590.jpg" alt="Upload"> <BR>

What kind of HP difference do they make?

HOLY SHAT! Look at the hole on that. What's the pluses?

Those are 30lbs lighter each. That means you need more ballast <img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/uhoh.gif" border=0>

If you going that route, why not just get a real set of boat headers?

<img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/335724.jpg" alt="Upload"> <BR> <BR>You can get them completely water jacketed and all. <BR> <BR>(Message edited by bocephus on June 14, 2006)

HEAT, If I thought the stainless tubular headers would work than that's what I would have run (like I did back in my drag boating days). Those above are most likely cheaper than the cast aluminum units. If you look at the runners inside of the aluminum castings they are very tubular, longer, and stay seperated longer than the factory's. <BR> <BR>WEIGHT, half of the reason that I am doing this is to keep the weight down. I am an avid slalom skier and barefooter so less weight is better. It's always easier (and cheaper) to add weight than to remove it. This weight loss will net out the weight gain from adding the golf cart batteries. <BR> <BR>I know this is pretty excessive but if you consider that I am only short 2mph of being able to do something that I enjoy (barefooting on one foot), this in conjunction with a prop change should do the trick. It's still less costly than the next engine upgrade...

i think the difference of new manifolds and headers in that picture is about 10,000 dollars

mikeski what kind of boat did you race? did you get into the k boats or just drag??

"Those are 30lbs lighter each. That means you need more ballast" <BR> <BR>I would gladly give up 60lbs of iron bolted to the side of the block. I would imagine that studs and gaskets would last much longer considering the pounding that our hulls take at times.

Rodney, <BR> <BR>We ran a Sanger, a Hondo and a Hallett, all flatbottoms. The Sanger was really a ski boat, it only turned 82mph in the 1/4, the Hallet would run about 95 since it was lighter and had more motor. The Hondo was a runner bottom potatoe chip with a blown/injected 468 BB. The best pass on that boat was 138mph (open cockpit, early 90's), eventually that boat went over killing the driver and ending my interest in boat racing. <BR> <BR>One done one to go... It's hard to see in the pix but the RM header is about 2" taller and 2" wider. <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/335991.jpg" alt="Upload">

Thats wild! Hopefully that does the trick and you can get those 2 mph back.

mikeski, that is a bummer kinda the same story my way to only with prostock boats we ran a beesmier (idk how to spell it) with a bud gilbert 427bbc and the driver brian bergeron crashed and ripped off one of his leg, and that was the ending point