Need info on my supreme
 

Hi,

Anybody can tell me what is that connection for? it is on the rear starboard side.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...04-10_1546.jpg

Next, i was inspecting the engine compartment, and found what appears to be an unhooked cable. Don't know what is it for, seems to a be a sensor of some kind. it's a 350 merc black scorpion.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...04-10_1542.jpg

One last thing, everything worked fine, until i've unhooked the lanyard on the killswitch. Now it's on the on position, nothing is working anymore, exept the accessories (wich are on a different system). No gages, no noise from the fuel pump and no starter at all. Tryied to jumpstart the boat... and nothing. When your kill switch is at off, do you still have the gages and system beep? Is there a way to test the killswitch? Maybe bypass it? Not sure it's the kill switch, but i need to start looking somewhere...

thanks for the info

the 1st pic looks like where you would put your light pole if traveling at night. My guess is that your tower has a light on it, so you would not need this. I have seen a lot of KK boats built this way (including my Centurion Avy)

You need to have your kill switch connected for the boat to start. Reconnect it and you will be fine. Without it it will continue to act like it is. Everything comes on but you are unable to start.

The cable almost looks like it goes to a temp sensor right in the pic.

The connection at the rear of the boat is for a anchor light. If you do not have one on your tower you will have to put the light on any time you are out at night. As stated it should be on a pole. Maybe 3-4ft long.

Yeah i've read my first post back, and it's not clear.

It seems I have two separate systems, one for the accesories (bilge, ballasts stereo etc..) and one for ignition and engine. I used to hear a beep when the ignition on, then the fuel pump and the gages would lit up. I removed the lanyard on the killswitch and put it back on. Now i don't have anything working, exept the accesories on the different circuit. Not sure the kill switch is the culprit here, but the problem occured soon after i removed the lanyard. I tryied to push the kill switch with my finger in order to have it firmly in place, but still nothing. After i triyed to jump start the boat, and the breaker on the engine compartment stayed stuck in the on position. I tryied to test it and it would'nt trigger in the off position.

So you tell me that normaly, even with the killswitch off, you still have gages, fuel pump and beeping from the engine systems??

when you take pull the kill switch it kills everything. When I bought mine it had a loose wire or a short in the kill switch, so it would kill the motor while driving the boat. I bypassed the kill switch, and took care of that until I got back from the lake, called KK, and they sent me a new switch. As for nothing working, there is a main 100A breaker in the back compartment. If that's OK, there is another 50A breaker near the alternator in the engine compartment. That might have popped for some reason, try that. I recently rewired mine so one battery runs the acc. and the starter, and the other runs the stereo. I added a breaker for the stereo, and used the stock 100A for the rest of he boat. But check the one in the engine compartment. your boat should have come with a 3 foot pole with a light on it. that plugs into the plug on the side of the boat and turns on with the ACC light switch.

the second picture shows a disconnected transmission oil cooler pressure sensor.I was going to say check the breaker on the engine.Do you have this type killswitch http://www.boatmartusa.com/marinemal...d-p-10244.html or this http://www.duny-golf-clubs.com/emerg...44F3SKID.html# ?

I would try to find out why the trans. oil cooler pressure sensor is disconected.My Black Scorpion kept sending a beep that the trans.oil cooler pressure was low and it ended up being a faulty ECM sending a false signal.Mechanic changed the sensor and the plug to the sensor,was still getting beepHe called Merc.tech support which told him to test out the ECM.Glad that $1500.00 part was under warranty.

With both breakers set to on, still nothing. I have 3 connections on the kill switch, but there is only 2 wires connected. I have a third wire not to far hanging loose. Wonder if it connect to the third terminal? I'll have to check the breakers i guess, maybe they are faulty, if that can happen?

my kill switch lokks like the sierra one, on the second link.

I sure hope my ecm i ok, is there a way to test it, or only a merc machanic can tell?

2 wires on the kill switch a purple and a purple/white stripe I think.

Is it possible something drained your battery dead?

Any hints on how to check if a battery is ok?

pull the port battery and take to an Auto Zone or an auto parts store in your area and they can load test it.Or have a friend that has a voltmeter check to atleast see if it's pushing 12volts+.

Make sure you are in neutral. I've bumped mine into gear before when it was off and had a heck of a time trying to trouble shoot.

Thanks for all the input. I've checked my battery today and it's only pushing 11.54 volts. I would expect the gages and the engine beep to be working tho, even with a low voltage. But tommorrow i'll check the rest. Apparently there is a couple of breakers that might cause a problem also, but i've test positive to engine block, and i still get the same reading so i would imagine the breakers are fine...

I hated my kill switch, and disconnected it, just swap the wires from the original position, so that (original) with lanyard installed it pulls the switch out, and now like mine with the lanyard removed (switch popped out it runs) If I had to kill it quick just push the button in! Above are correct with it disconnected systems don't work, the first picture as many said is rear light port. 11.54 volts is defiantly enough to get the gauges etc to power up. Do you disconnect batteries in the winter? I did that before and did not get good connections to all of the wires?

Good news. I plugged the batteries in and the boat started.
But still, I don't understand why. When my battery was pushing 11.54v, i tryied to jump start the boat with my power pack. But nothing would work.
Now that the battery is full, it runs like a charm. I jumpstarted cars before without a hinch, are boats any different from cars when it comes to jumpstarting?

So nobody knows about this connector. should i connect it?

Also, where are your gages at normal operating temp? oil halfway is ok? operating temps halfway is ok too?

Jonathan: Mine runs at about 160 degs (The middle) oil pressure is about the same 40 lbs (middle). I just looked at mine, I don't see any connectors not plugged in? That's on the starboard (Rt) below the manifold? by the battery isolator, I think it's for the fuel temp sensor, I would plug it in? I don't have a loose connectors under there?

G

READ my earlier post.I bet if you plug it in it causes a warning signal.The connection is the transmission oil(fluid) cooler water pressure sensor.

jay I've never been on the water with it so far, i'll have to get it on the lake to be sure. As for now it makes a warning signal, probably because i run cold water after the v-drive directly in the inlet pipe and the v-drive sensor doesn't get cooled off... Well i hope this is the problem and that I won't have to change my ECM.

No problem.Did you get it from a dealer?Should have some kind of warranty.If you are connecting before the sea water pump there is water running through the transmission oil cooler.The cooler is for the transmission not the v-drive,two different things.The trans. is between the engine and the v-drive,it has trans fluid in it.The v-drive has 30wt. oil in it.Is the warning you are getting two beeps?

Picture of cooling system here. http://www.ishopmarine.com/ishop/jsp...ier-300-020-MC

I got my boat very far away. Not sure about the warranty yet, in canada things seems more complicated when you talk about warranties.

Yes i have two beeps and i was sure there was a sensor on the v drive, and that it was this sensor causing the beeps. So you are telling me no temp sensor on the v-drive? I should probably connect it and see what happens.

Yes the unhooked sensor seems to be bettween the two number 16 in the diagram. This is the trans cooler then?

The v-drive sensor is connected to the red warning light on the dash by the ballast switches.Yes it is the trans.cooler.They changed the sensor,and replaced the connector then called Merc. they told them to check the ECM.That was the problem.

Thanks for you help. i'll try connect it and see what happens!

I've noticed a little knob in the pic. I've looked in the manual but i have no idea what this is for?
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ritv8/knob.jpg

It's for calibrating the speedometer. Good luck with that, the rule is never touch it!!!

Hahaha... too late!

Yeah everyone does it! My friends boat was a boat show boat and a little kid was sitting in it using that thing like a video game controller! Just match speed with another boat, not sure what year yours is? If it's not running the paddle wheel the speedo sucks anyway? I just use my PP for speed.

I've just installed a GPS, so that won't be too hard i guess.

About that unhooked connector, i've plugged it, and now i don't have the 2 beeps anymore, and i can go over 3000rpms.

But, i can't go over 3500rpm while out of the water. I Wonder if this is normal? Only one beep can be heard at 3500 and the engine slows down by itself.

Well now you know that the sensor is ok and you don't have the same ECM problem I had.Get that thing out on the water and try it I think you're good to go.Mine beeps too if you rev the rpm up,never kept it at that speed to notice it cutting power though.

I am not sure why you want to go over 3500 rpm out of water. I don't think a hose can supply enough flow of water as the boat is demanding at the RPM. Just doesn't seem like a good idea for many other reasons as well.

The boat is brand new, and I wanted to make sure everything is okay before droping it in the water. That's how i found that i had a problem at first, by reving the engine to see if gardian mode is engaged.

Don't plan on doing this too often.

Are you doing this with the boat in gear out of the water?

no, I'm just reving the engine. So it appears this is a safety, and not a faulty sensor or ecm?

No,you're probably good.Take it out on the water,just stay in the area of the launch to start so if you have trouble you don't have far to get back.

Ended up being fine. the boat runs great.

I have 3 little chrome rings in the back of the boat right side and two left side. I know that 1 is for ballast overflow and the other for the bilge on the right. It leaves one onpening on each side that a really don't know what they are for. Could it be gas tank vents? In that case i guess water should never go in, right?

i think one is bilge, and one is a vent for both rear ballasts, and one is for ballast overflow. there is one one the other side ( ballast overflow)

The two on left are the overflow and the drain(pump out) for left rear tank and on right one is bilge one is overflow and the other is drain for right rear tank.

What is the use of overflow exactly?

When I pump out i does'nt go trought this hole. I guess they empty from the inlet.
When the ballast are full one of the hole is pumping water out.

Yes the Rear bassasts empty from the Inlet ( the two little inlets next to the exhaust with the brass screens on them) I think the overflow / vent hole isso the air in the tank can escape when you are adding water. when it's full, water comes out. whats wierd is that on mine, both ballasts "vent holes " are on the drivers' side. when I fill both ballasts, when they are full, water comes out of both sides.
Not really a big deal, no they do not empty from there. The only thing I would suggest you do, is call Jabsco and see if they will send you the new Ballast pump inpellers. I have the same setup and the impellers stuck and the tanks wouldn't empty. they're about 30 bucks eack if you have to buy, but when I talked to Jabsco, they took care of the cost and shipped two out that day. Super easy to change also.

Not all Supreme's have Jabscos.My 2007 V212 has Attwood Tsunami 1200 aerator pumps.Two per tank ,one fills tank through screens on transom and the other dumps it out the side.If you have aerators the screened inlets are intake only.

Okay so basically two holes for the ballast en each side, and on the right one more for the bilge. So i guess it doesn't matter that when we are wakesurfing those holes get underwater??

As for the oil pressure, i get 50PSI, or just above it when I speed up. I have the 300hp black scorpion. Is this okay??

mine runs around 75-85 psi when doing about 40 mph
dont know at idle, but i will check it out

For those who own a V220, what is your wakeboard setup? I mean how much ballast, speed, rope lenght or else.

I find my wake to be much smaller at 75 ft than 65ft.

So, let me get this straight.... Original Poster buys a new boat, and has NO IDEA what any of the features of his boat are. So, rather than picking up the owners manual, and READING IT, he goes straight to WakeWorld and wastes all your time to diagnose what his anchor light post connection and speedometer adjustment knob are?


What happened to reading the Owners manual and using your brain to diagnose your own problems?

Agree with CraigP, some questions are ok but man a lot of this stuff should have been worked out at dealer walk thru?

Be safe.....

I'm not pointing a gun to your head to read an answer this post, you do this on your own. So I think you can keep these kinds of comments for yourself.

FYI, I've read all the documentation that came with the boat but couldn't find answers, and the dealer is 500 miles away and hard to reach on the phone...

So can we get back to the thread. BTW thanks to everybody who wasted their time answering this post...

your oil pressure is fine

For those who own a V220, what is your wakeboard setup? I mean how much ballast, speed, rope lenght or else.

I find my wake to be much smaller at 75 ft than 65ft

My setup typically is fill the factory tanks, and depending on crew size the following.

5-6 people on board - put a 400 lb sac in the walkway area near driver.

2-4 people on board, or if you want to go big - 400's in the lockers on top of the factory ballast, 750 in walkway/bow area.

No pics, I actually like the wake without any ballast as well, and practice on it quite a bit!

eric

heres a pics of my old 06 V220 and how I weighed it down. Cant exactly give you exact # of lbs. But all the sacks you see are Fat buddies which i think run about 280 lbs each.
So my setup was both rear boat ballast full. Then a fat buddy in each rear compartment(so thats 560 Lbs on top of the rear tanks which were 250 each i think)
Then a fat buddy on the rear seat right it the middle(under my friends legs in the pic). 280lbs
Then a fat buddy on the floor right below the one on the seat 280lbs
Then a fat buddy on the walk way right next to the drivers seat 280lbs
And a Fat boy on the bow - which i would say was about 450-500lbs.
Rope was at 75 ft and speed was about 24 or a tad below. I ran my perfect pass on RPM mode on this boat, as MPH mode would not hold speed perfect(would always slow & surge when rider would cut hard). RPMS held dead on.

Yeah, that a whole lot of weight... Do you need to put this much weight to get a good wake on this boat??

you can just fill up the sacs in the rear compartments, and 1 big sack in the bow, so you dont have any in the main area of the boat. Wake will be pretty good with that.