This may be a totally dumb question but with my current I/O, I can not back it up my driveway because it is too steep and the outdrive would scrape the ground. I am getting a new V-drive and am hoping this won't be an issue since nothing hangs behind the trailer like on the I/O. The driveway is a little bit steep but not too bad. Please advise if you have a similiar situation. Thanks!!!

can you back it in at an angle? and then straighten it out?

You are going to need wheels on the back of the trailer and yes it is going to hit big time.

In my experience the prop guard on inboard trailers hangs far lower than the outdrive on most I/O's. Granted you can add rollers and skid plates to lessen the impact as you drive you guard over various surfaces, this is still only meant to me a quick protector and not a load bearing surface.

I had a neighbor with a similar situation, <BR>He would put a couple of 2"x4"s down and the prop <BR>gard would slide on those so the driveway would't <BR>get gouged up. It worked pretty good.

Are you ordering the boat? If so, prop guard rollers might be an option on your trailer. They might even be standard, depending on who makes the trailer.

To add on Swass's post, if your orderignthe baot , you cna also see if the manufacturer can add 1-2 inches on the trailer axel spindle to "lift" the trailer a littel. I had it done on mine. It looks like a stock ride height unless you compare against a similar boat.

prop cage rollers are your only hope. I had to come up w/ a little system to get my boat into a storage building last year. had a 2" lip the cage wouldn't get past. ended up using 2 2x6"s and 2 short 4x4"s. the trick was lifting up the trailer and setting it down about 5 feet later. used the 4x's under the 2x6's and let it pivot over the 4x's. sounds like you have different situation tho...

consider that if you raise the trailer, you might end up too tall to get under your garage door. i vote rollers are the way to go. shouldn't cost much either way - to add them as an option, or have them custom fabbed later.

Could you put some wood in the road to smooth out the transition?

agree...height is an issue with my 7' garage door (actually 82" at bottom of roll-up garage door). Does anyone have a picture of a prop gaurd roller so I know what it is?

It might also help to use a much lower drop hitch, not for normal towing, but just for backing up the drive.

Prop guard rollers: <BR> <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/263587.jpg" alt=""> <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/263588.jpg" alt="">

Also if you raise the trailer, you have to back it farther in to get the boat to float off.

Any ideas appreciated. Haven't bought the boat yet but have it narrowed down to two and am counting on getting it into the garage. One dealer did mention using a drop hitch to lower it and make sure it clears the top...thought that was my main problem but then remembered not being able to even get the I/O up the driveway. A picture of rollers would be appreciated. Also, would the wood idea work at point A to smooth things out or would it still hit somewhere around point B? Thx <BR> <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/263592.jpg" alt="">

I have a V210 so when I get to the point of almost dragging I lay down a 2x6 under each set of wheels and it raises it just enough to get over the hump in the driveway .

another big prob that you are missing is once you get to the top and the garage flattens out the belly of the trailer (cross beams) will bottom out. I had the exact same problem. I used some stacked 2x6's and made a little ramp that I used at the bottom of the driveway and then when I got to the top used them again. Also, look at the height of the boat with tower folded down and you might not be able to get it in the garage. The whole situation gets old very very very fast. We ended up buying a new house cause it was such a pain and we were not giving up on boating.... <BR>Good luck though...

The garage is a big issue for me, at this time our boat is in storage. I would like to keep it at home. We are looking at buying a house with a 8 foot garage. I wish I could get our boat in a regular garage but no luck. <BR>Diggs isn't your boat like over 7 feet high or does ours sit higher on the trailer. <BR>

I am looking at either vRide with Illusion X tower which appears to be about 82" collapsed or Sanger V215 which appears to be 80" collapsed (appears to be since both were measured at dealer on uneven surfaces). Someone said the drop down hitch would bring it down slightly if I need that...the drive is sloped but not hugely. SOunds like I should look into adding prop gaurd rollers though and getting some wood for ramps.

towers are a snap to take off. measure the height of the highest point on your windshield, then your garage opening. The wood shims on your drive should work fine also. I had and got through the same set of problems. Don't be intimidated by your tower...its very easy to remove. After the boat is in the garage put a steel strap on the ceiling and reattach your tower to the boat and the strap for easy access. Also think of getting wheel dollies so you can position your boat any way that makes sense.

Grant would just throw some airbags on the trailer.

Robert, <BR> <BR>Can you angle the boat in your garage? Our Ski Brendella fit straight in our garage with the swim platform and trailer tongue removed. Now the Supra fits in at an angle. I can't believe your garage would be smaller than mine ...... <BR>Here's the Brendella: <BR> <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/263670.jpg" alt="">

Tracy, <BR>By using the drop ditch your going to drop the nose of the trailer and raise the back of the trailer giving you a little more clearance. some crude wood blocks placed right at "A" and "B" would get you in also, the trailer rollers shown in one of the pic's above are a great add. The wheels on the grey (bottom Pic) are what DHM suggest if you are relying on the wheels to get into or out of a driveway.

seriously, forget piling wood in the driveway etc - the rollers are totally the way to go. they'll be there not only for your driveway, but also when you tow over any other ditches &amp; grades where you'd drag the prop guard, which will happen all the time.

Sounds like the rollers and a drop hitch may get it done. Any idea if prop gaurd rollers can be added to any trailer?

With rollers, I don't see a need for a second receiver with more drop. But, yes - rollers can be added to most trailers. <BR> <BR>Do you really want to unhook the boat, switch receivers and then hook the boat up again just to get up the driveway?

My garage is 82" tall and my baby fits in....Maybe you should consider getting a X-1.<img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/proud.gif" border=0>

Can the rollers handle the entire boat plus trailer weight (5,000 lbs)? <BR> <BR>For a period of time, the rollers will be the only part of the trailer contacting the ground! <BR> <BR>The two setups posted by swass look pretty beefy.

We had to put a 2" block lift on our 1999 DHM T/A trailer because our drive way is so steep. The lift helped a lot but we still scarp for a couple of inches. We messed around with differnt drop hitched but if we went too low then the frame of the trailer would hit. The lift didn't effect towing in any way and we don't have a problem launchig the boat since all of the ramps we go to our steep.

yes, look up caster wheels on mcmaster.com - you can get capacities over 10k lbs each side. also, the weight on the casters would be something over half the total weight, but a lot of it would be on the hitch as well. 1500 lbs per roller should be fine. keep in mind they are also rated for plant use, like under a dolly that's being used 16 hrs/day. they probably won't see 16 hrs of use in the life of the trailer. do make sure you get something that can handle submersion, like sealed roller bearings, or Delrin plane bearings. <BR> <BR>i also concur with swass re no need for an additional drop hitch.

BTW this is how steep our driveway is and this is a pic of the boat w/lift. It doesn't look bad or like an off-roading trailer. Most people don't even know its been lifted. <BR> <BR>

<BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/263734.jpg" alt="pic">

It does sound like a good set of trailer rollers is the way to go. Actually, they seem like a nice addition to almost any active boat trailer.

I think all the new trailers have the rollers....I know mine does.

I am leaning toward getting the vRide with Illusion X tower. Has anyone been successful in getting it into a 7' high garage with roll-up door?

One other thought (not at home right now or I'd check) but if you have a 7' garage but a roll-up door that takes up a couple of extra inches, can you disconnect the door from the opener and pull it up a little further to get the extra room? Let me know if anyone has tried this? Also checked on the rollers and they aren ot standard but could be added!