Alternator recommendations
'06 Supra 21v, 325 hp with the stock alternator. Pair of Wetsounds Pro 80's with a Hifonics amp, Alpine Type R sub with amp, boat speakers with amp. It seems like the alternator is not charging sufficiently. Was stranded on the lake last Sunday and anchoring in a cove for 4 hours with tunes going. Batteries were dead to the point that the portable battery jump box didn't work. Got towed in, put the boat in the garage when I got home, put on the Battery Tender and everything is fine. Both batteries passed the load test and boat cranked. Haven't had a chance to hook up a water source to test the alternator. So, after all that, what size alternator/brand is everyone upgrading to.
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Do you have an onboard charging system that you can hook it all up to. Alternator will have a tough time bringing them back to full after dropping them that far. Most guys have on board chargers to hook em up to overnight to get batts back to full...
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It may be that your stereo current draw is more than your alternator can keep up with. If you have been trying to extend the stereo playing time by turning the boat on to put a charge back into the batteries....there is a chance you have fried your batteries.
It is not as simple as add a bigger alternator. You may be better off adding more batteries to have more playing time instead of being the guy the in party cove who is churning up exhaust while everyone is having a good time. I have 4 optima blue tops and very efficient amps...never once have I had to start my boat to keep the stereo going and if the batteries ever do die in the cove, we will be done with the stereo that day. Trying to get my 100a alternator to charge up 4 batteries would kill my alternator. On board charger is key, glad to see that you have that in place already. It does sound like you need to get a switch to isolate your batteries when in party cove |
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Randy,
You should always have a starting battery in reserve that is isolated by a dual battery switch while at rest. It doesn't appear that your system is so large as to necessitate an upgrade alternator. There are plenty of other issues to check and to improve before you would get around to a larger alternator. David Earmark Marine |
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Pick up a 135 amp marine alternator.. The alternator should carry the complete load of the systems when running.. The batteries are in the charge mode.. Also one of the batteries should not drawn on when hanging out in the cove... Thats your dedicated start battery..
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Randy,
There is your issue. When using a dual battery switch nothing but a bilge pump and float switch (if applicable) should go directly to either battery. Everything else wires to the common/output of the switch. While at rest have the switch on a single battery only. Turn it to 'ALL' before starting and when running. You do not need an upgrade alternator. Just correct the wiring and alter your use. David Earmark Marine |
Any suggestions for a good 135 amp marine alternator?
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Talk to Shawn at:
http://www.amarket.com/ |
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If the alternator is actually dead then I would probably upgrade to a Delco 11si 95 amp unit or a Leece Neville 8MR series at either 90 amps or 105. You should be able to get either unit for $200-250. This is for an OEM, very high quality unit and not a rebuilt or a Chinese clone. These units can be used with a single V belt if you don't have a serpantine belt. Then I would make the system a 3 battery system with one battery on one side and 2 batteries on the other. Then when sitting listening to music you would always turn it to the 2 battery bank. This will give you increased playing time and leave a fully charged battery for starting. Last I would invest in a good 2 bank charger, not a low amp tender. A low amp tender is going to have a tough job charging up a depleted battery bank, especially if it has 2 batteries on one of the banks. |
Brett,
I'm afraid of encouraging people to rotate the switch after the boat is running assuming that most have the basic switch. Can you explain the 'make before break' type of switch? Thanks in advance. David Earmark Marine |
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Does that make sense to everybody? |
Need some recommendations to clean up my setup. Anyone? I'm not really sure what the common side of the Perko switch is. Thanks.
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Amplifier fusing or breakers are generally only used at a single point as close to the battery as possible. Individual fusing is generally not required since the primary purpose of the fusing is to protect the boat. You can protect each amp individually if you choose as long as its not redundant with the amplifier provisions. The helm buss supply should be fused (breaker). Breakers can be used between batteries but this is usually done only when the batteries are separated by a significant distance.
David Earmark Marine |
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Got the batteries rewired Saturday. Took the boat out Sunday and the ipod killed the one battery after about 1 1/2 hours. Other battery cranked the boat up fine. Think I need to upgrade batteries to the Optimas. Any suggestions on which ones to use? Blue or Yellow top? Which models are best? Thanks.
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Some people think it isn't a very good idea to mix battery types and sizes but personally I don't think it is that big of a deal. Plus the deka agm's were designed to have similar charging characteristics as most lead acid flooded batteries. |
Hmmmm....who orignally suggested more batteries??????
Optimas are great but your cost per a/h is really high. Like Brett said, the Deka Sea Mates will be the best battery for the buck in the sealed category. |
Thanks for the info. I'll check out the Deka's. There's a dealer not too far away.
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Looks like Deka's out. 1 dealer within 50 miles and they don't answer their phone and no voicemail. Sweet.
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I would call Deka Corporate and ask them where else they are sold?
Website is not always 100% correct |
Randy if there are West Marine store's near you they carry the deka's rebranded as their own.
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+1 for west marine. I just replaced my lead acid batteries with their AGM's.
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Thanks. I'll call corporate and check to see if there's a West Marine close by.
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