a friend bought a used boatmate trailer, had been carrying an 03 or so supra. the trailer brakes are wired for reverse lock-out but his/my trucks are not. <BR> <BR>is there a manual lock-out? we've looked and couldn't find anything. <BR> <BR>also, could we use a spare 12v battery to power the wire? <BR> <BR>thx

there should be a lockout key on the cylinder part of the trailer hitch ( the lock out hole is about thesize of a nickle) , if not just stick the last pin into the reciever ont eh ruck and turn on yoru driving lights . This will do the same thing as applying 12v to the wire. or buy the 4 pin to 5 pin adapter. <BR> <BR>you'll knwo if you did it right, your reverse lights on your trailer will light up...assuming you have them.

I bought an adapter like this one to use on my 71 chevy truck: <BR><a href="http://www.etrailer.com/pc-A~20036.htm" target="_blank">http://www.etrailer.com/pc-A~20036.htm</a> <BR> <BR> The blue wire connects to backup lights on the vehicle...

Flip the harness around and turn on your headlights. Blue on the boat harness to brown on the vehicle. It will fake out the trailer brakes. Just make sure you always put the harness back before you go down the road.

I did the "turn the plug around and lights on" trick for years and it works great. <BR> <BR>This brings up a great question that I've had for a while: As you all are aware of, well most of you anyway, there is a silver key that you slip into the slot at the hitch to stop the piston from compressing and hence locking your brakes. That key will not stay in place very well and it's easy to have it fall out. Why isn't there a plastic clip of some sort that clips onto the trailer tongue that holds the clip into place so it won't fall out?!?!? I asked this question before to someone in the industry and I think the answer I got was that they didn't want you leaving the key in and heading down the road without brakes on accident. <BR> <BR>So is there some sort of clip that someone has come up with that holds that key in place? I have used tape in the past and it either takes the paint off my trailer or it leaves a residue.

When I first bought my boat there was no key and I did not have the right electrical adapter. <BR> <BR>My ghetto solution was (2) square nuts and a "C" Clamp. I would assume the C-Clamp would work with the key if needed. <BR> <BR>Not the best looking solution, but it did the job.

Try using a magnet to hold it in place. You probably have one of those with advertising on it on your fridge right now. You can leave the magnet stuck to the side of the tongue and it will be there when you need it. It has worked great for me. Just make sure it is strong enough to hold. <BR> <BR>Jman

Try this I use A aircraft lock out pin contact a parts company. The pin fit in tight and locks in place w/push button lock the part# is MS17986C533.

Your lock out works when you put your vehicle into reverse. Run a wire from you reverse light to you trailer. When you put your vehical into reverse, It sends power to you solenoid and it will let you go backwards. You cannot have constant power to you solenoid, otherwise it will burn out.

In my old boat, I used to have a lockout "key" that you stick in the cutout slot where the surge brakes slide. There was no hope for the electrical method on that trailer. I held the lockout key in place by putting one of my wife's "scrunchies" (hair thingy) around the trailer tongue. It's like a big rubber band with cloth padding around it to protect the paint. It worked great. With my new boat, there was no key attached. I tried a penny, dime, and nickle. The penny fits best, so I think I'm going to use that method when I need it, but the reverse light lockout seems to be working about 75% of the time, so I'm good for now. Sometimes I have to rock it back and forth a bit though. <BR> <BR>The magnet idea is a good idea. I'll search my fridge for one that fits. <BR> <BR>Does anyone have a weblink to where you can find lockout pins? I couldn't find that aircraft part you mention Adam.

duck tape holds anything

I keep 2 pieces of duct tape on the trailer that I use to hold the key into place. Whenever one starts to lose the stickyness I replace.

On my old Loadrite trailer, I drilled a 1/4" hole just forward of where the brake actuator would slide into the trailer. Put a bolt in the hole just before backing-up the trailer, works good. <BR> <BR>If you already have a five-flat connector on your trailer, just wire your truck to match it so when you're in reverse the brakes release.