HSE Volume Control - Sub Wiring?
 

So I received my RCAs and have the HSE mounted and ready to wire. My question is how do I wire my sub?

I've got a Sony head unit, 4 in boat speakers, 4 tower speakers, a sub, and a 5 channel Boston Acoustics amp powering everything. Looking at the diagram in the manual, I can see how to wire the in boats and tower speakers, but not the sub, at least without another set of input/outputs...

Again, I'm no audio expert, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Here's the closest diagram from the manual:
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/g...g/scan0002.jpg

How many sets of pre-outs are you using off the deck? You only are using 1 amp total then?

This is the HU I have. It has three pre-outs.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158M60U...I.html?tp=1721

Yes, one 5 channel amp that powers all speakers including the sub.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-iUstwXP...ics-GT-50.html

I would add an EQ after the HSE. That allows fading between boat/tower and has sub level.

There's a clarion eq that fits mikeskis bill an amazon for around $50.

Dan, it appears that you have a diagram from an outdated owners manual. Please refer to the latest version:

http://www.hsetrident.com/PDF/Owner_Manual_Complete.pdf

There should only be one connection from the head unit to the RVC, not two connections as shown in the diagram you posted.

Mikeski,

Thanks, but if I add an EQ, will I still have to lower the volume on the sub manually when I reduce speed?

Tom,

Thanks, but I'm still not getting how to wire in the sub to the volume control. (I'm kind of slow...hahaha)

Currently, I have three sets of pre-outs, two for the speakers and one for the sub. On my amp, there are three inputs corresponding to the pre-outs on the HU, two for the speakers and one for the sub. I wired the HSE based on the diagram I show up top, (thanks for the link to the updated diagram), using the speaker pre-outs. So the sub pre-outs and wire bypasses the HSE.

I turned on the stereo just to test it out, and since the sub bypasses the HSE, it's still pounding when I turn the attenuation knob to lower the volume on the speakers. Makes sense...

So even with the updated diagram, how do you split the outputs into three channels to lower the power going to both sets of speakers AND the sub?

I'm probably overlooking something and making this way too difficult, so sorry for being dense...I do appreciate the help.

Dan

no, with an EQ, your one output from the deck goes to the HSE, then the one output from the HSE goes to the EQ. The EQ has three outputs -- one for boat, one for tower, one for sub. So you hook your sub amp to the eq rather than the deck.

Ahhh! So the WS 420 would do the same correct?

Damn, I guess I gotta spend some more money...=)

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tqxy65W25ww/S8...ETUP%20SGP.jpg

Yeah, a ws420 would work, but so would a much less expensive option like a $50 Clarion EQ.

Dan,
You can go the EQ route if you want the ability to fade the tower, interior, sub independently of each other along with controlling the frequency characteristics of each output. If you don't care about having the fading capability then you could connect your system as follows.

1) Connect the front pre-out of the head unit to the RVC.
2) Split the output of the RVC into two paths.
3) Connect path 1 out of the RVC to the front input of the GT-50
4) Connect path 2 out of the RVC to the sub input of the GT-50
5) On the GT-50, set the "front/rear" selector switch for the rear input to the "front" position.

This should allow you to use the RVC for all channels of your GT-50.

Never join together preouts from your source unit. These are discrete OP amps. You're only going to use your front RCA out to the HSE. You'll lose all independent control functions.

The HSE has good preout voltage so you can split these off and re-gain your zone controls via PAC LC-1s, JL line drivers or a WetSounds EQ.

The Clarion EQ has a non-defeatable lowpass filter on the sub out. Its selectable between 60 and 90 Hz. 60 Hz is useless in a boat. 90 Hz is acceptable for some systems but not all. If losing the crossover flexability is okay in your system then the Clarion EQ is a cheap option that's pretty clean.

David
Earmark Marine

Awesome, thanks guys! I don't know if I have the patience or the "ears" to mess with an EQ. I guess it's a character flaw...=)

I'll try it without the EQ and then look into adding one later. I've never had one in any of my vehicles so I don't really know the ins and outs...

Thanks again.