I have a 4 channel amp two bridged pushing a solabaric 12 L5, and the other 2 pushing tower speakers. The sub cuts out at higher volumes, I replaced the rca cables for the amp with Monster 300 series, and noticed no in line fuse and cuts in the power lead that had been taped up. Do you think this would cause the channel for the sub to cut out? Any troubleshooting advice?

I'm not a huge stereo nerd, but I think the issue is that you are pushing too much through that poor little amp. You are over heating it, and it's turning off channels, in order to protect itself. You should get another AMP.

I would agree, you are pushing too much with the amp. To make it work turn off the bass boost if it is on. If it still cuts out, turn down the gains a little. But really, if you can afford it, like Robb said, get another amp.

regardless of what you decide to do, I would fuse the power line and replace the chewed up power cable.

let me break it down so I can get some answers. I have one Kenwood Kac 8402 4 channel amp 600w, it pushes 6 kicker ks6.0 cabin speakers. I have a kicker kx 850.4 that the two channels run a set of Skylon Deafcon III tower speakers, the other two channels on that amp are bridged and run the solabaric 12L5. I am thinking about running the solabaric off of the Kenwood amp Bridged, and the cabin speakers off of the two channels on the kx850.4, and leave the tower speakers where they are. The Kenwood amp came stock in from supra, do you think I should try and sell it and get a different amp to run the solabaric?? I will also be running the new power leads to both amps.

First off, there is a lot of hype regarding the RCA cables that is pure bunk. There is so little power send down the RCA cables that going to beefier cables just makes no sense at all. Sometimes a better shielding can avoid a little bit of noise but even that is rare. The only issue with the RCA cables is that they make good contact and are not all corroded. <BR> <BR>If the amp is cutting out it is either due to being asked to put out more power than it is capable of, it is getting too hot, or its not getting enough voltage. <BR> <BR>Just because the amp has a knob that goes to "10" doesn't mean you should turn it up that high. It may just be that you are attempting to drive it too hard. Try turning down the sub a bit and see if hangs in there. <BR> <BR>The amp needs to be cooled. If you have the amp tucked into a small compartment or in a place that won't get any air flow it could be overheating. I would expect it to be a slower response, that it would deliver full power for a minute or two and then cut out and not come back for a minute or two. <BR> <BR>If it isn't getting enough current then it would have a similar response only faster. Every time the bass really hit hard the amp would cut out, but then come back in a few seconds. <BR> <BR>What size wire are you running to the amp and how long is it? If you are running 10 feet of #6 that could be your problem. Any splices in the line would only add to the problem. <BR> <BR>Where does the amp wires attach? There definatly should be a fuse, but otherwise as directly to the battery as possible is the preferred way. If you are attempting to pick power off the boat's primary distribution panel then I would expect no end of problems.