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-   Archive through June 21, 2006 (http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=339308)
-   -   Head unit help for those with Supra 21v (http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=335887)

dudeman 06-14-2006 6:25 PM

Have my tower speaker amp wired in and connected to the remote blue/white wire on the back of the head unit. The amp is bridged at 2 channels, 4 ohms pushing 350 watts per channel to Rubicon 350's. I get volume to the tower speakers but weaker than the boat speakers. I didn't get a Kenwood manual but downloaded one. I cannot control the volume on the tower speakers. I have to be missing a setting on the interface of the Kenwood, but I can't seem to find it. I was trying the CD/CH to get my AUX input display but nothing came up. What am I missing? Thanks.<img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/sad.gif" border=0>

newty 06-14-2006 6:39 PM

You may have your RCA's hook up to the aux input instead of the output. The aux will bleed over a bit through them.

dudeman 06-14-2006 6:46 PM

Ryan, I was told by Kenwood that the 2 sets of RCA cables that were on the back were audio outputs. Is that not correct? I have a Clarion EQ that I haven't installed yet and was trying to bypass that if possible. Are there more RCA connections stuffed in the wire bundle? I couldn't see any.

newty 06-14-2006 7:46 PM

Just a wild guess, I wasn't sure which deck you had. My Clarion did that. Not sure about more RCA's. What model is it? There may also be a non fade volume setting.

acurtis_ttu 06-14-2006 8:04 PM

make sure your radio fader/balance are set at "0" , then check all your amp settings ( gain especially). the RCA connections are the outputs.

doug2 06-14-2006 8:08 PM

What model? Is it the stock HU? I had problems with the RCA outs on my KDC-MP4028 from day one.

dudeman 06-15-2006 2:51 AM

The model is a KTS-MP400MR. The specs say it has 3 sets of RCA outputs, but I only saw 2. There was another set of female connections on the back that said SW which I'm not sure what they are. Maybe to the EQ? Right now I do not have the Clarion hooked up into the system and am just trying to run the amps off of the head unit. They claim it can do everything you need it to do. Adam, the radio fader/balance is set at "0".

siuski 06-15-2006 5:59 AM

the other set of rca on back of the deck are for the sub output. I know that there are two sets of rca's that are connected via wires to the head unit are for front and rear (three sets total). I think that you can only get to the AUX display if there is something inputing. The AUX input is a DIN adapter that you have to buy seperatly.

acurtis_ttu 06-15-2006 6:16 AM

the issue is probably not with your HU, check yoru amp settings, yoru gain is probably set to low. what kind of amp is it?

yosquire 06-15-2006 6:26 AM

disconnect the RCAs and plug the amp into an IPOD or other RCA source. That'll tell you really quick wither it's the amp or the deck.

doug2 06-15-2006 6:37 AM

Do you have a multimeter? <BR>The amp is turning on correct? Make sure it is seeing correct voltage (~12.7V). <BR>'SW' stands for subwoofer. That set counts as one of the three rcas. <BR>To turn on the AUX input the menu must be accessed from the standby mode. <BR> <BR>Dumb question, but did you try either of the other sets of rcas? I'll second Craig's idea for troubleshooting. Try the easy stuff first... <BR> <BR>Don't feel bad, Kenwood manuals suck. It took me almost an entire day to figure out how to get out of 'demo' mode. <BR> <BR>(Message edited by doug2 on June 15, 2006)

doug2 06-15-2006 6:42 AM

I just realized which HU you have. Doesn't it have the dual zone volume deal? I'll download the manual and double check.

doug2 06-15-2006 7:03 AM

OK, take a look at the manual on pages 11 and 24. <BR> <BR>On 11- look for volume offset control. Make sure that the value is high enough for the source. <BR> <BR>On 24- Make sure "AMP MUTE ON," this is referring to the internal amp, to make the RCAs true pre amp outs. Next make sure "ZONE 2 OFF," this will make the front and rear channels the same source. <BR> <BR>On 23- The manual mentions the sub pre out needing to be turned on(really just switching rear and sub rcas), but this is only a function of the 300MR. I'd double check and make sure it doesn't show up on your menu... <BR> <BR>Good luck.

dudeman 06-15-2006 7:57 AM

Amp is a Hifonics Titan TXi 6406 brand new. Tried both sets of RCA's. Amp is turned on correctly. I'm not home right now but I'm pretty sure the AMP MUTE ON and ZONE 2 OFF were set. I didn't think to check the gain on the amp, but would it be set all the way down from the factory? I guess anything is possible.

boarder_x 06-15-2006 8:07 AM

WOW!!!! Without a manual, how would anyone get that thing configured???? <BR> <BR>I will admit though, it took a while for me to figure out what SUM meant. I had a SUM setting, and a SUM out. Finally realized it was Sub. I did have Sub output control from the HU.

dudeman 06-15-2006 8:44 AM

I just talked to tech support at Kenwood and was told that the volume cannot be controlled independently to the tower speakers as claimed by the dealer. Therefore the problem must be the gain. Looks like I will be installing the Clarion EQ after all. Glad I didn't sell that. Thanks for everybodys input.

doug2 06-15-2006 8:58 AM

I couldn't find the owner's manual on the Hifonics site. I'd double check the amp and see if the input switch (A/Both/B or similar) is set correctly.

06-15-2006 7:43 PM

I just went through this problem on my 06 Supra 21v. Problem is that they wired all the speakers in boat and towers together. I had to take mine to and independant stereo place and get it rewired. So now when I fade to front it's on the tower and when I fade to rear it's the in boat speakers. I orignally went to get this done because my stereo keep cutting in and out when I turned it loud. The guys at the stereo place thought I had too much going to the amp so I bought another amp. One 400w amp for my 4 tower speakers and 10 inch sub. The other 200w for my in boat speakers. Darn thing is still cutting in/out when I turn it loud. I think it's the radio. Dealers ordered another but not arrived yet. Another person said I still have to much drawing from the bigger amp but that doesn't make sense to me. At least I can control the tower speakers now independantly from the boat but still can't till it past 30 on my radio <IMG SRC="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/sad.gif" ALT=":-(" BORDER=0>

doug2 06-15-2006 8:27 PM

William- <BR>Where was your original amp mounted?

dudeman 06-16-2006 2:56 AM

William, I turned the gains up last night on the amp I installed and the amp would go into protection mode when I would hit no more than 20 on the head unit and cut the amp out. Not sure what is going on, but right now I'm pulling power from the buss underneath the drivers kick panel, because that's where the amp is mounted. It will be rewired this weekend pulling power from the batteries thru an inline kit made by Stinger. Not sure if that's the problem though.

dudeman 06-16-2006 6:32 AM

William, I'm learning as I go but after talking to tech support again, my problem and may be yours also is that the gain on the amp is set to high for the voltage output on the head unit. If you have the KTS-MP400MR like I do, the output is 2 volts. Try turning the gain down on the amp to match output voltage of the head unit. Also if you have the amp mounted under the drivers kick panel and you are drawing power from the buss, rewire the power from the amp and run it directly to the batteries with an inline fuse if you have one for extra protection. If I'm wrong, feel free to correct me because like I said, I'm learning as I go.

boarder_x 06-16-2006 6:55 AM

Wire directly to the battery. Use 4 gauge wire for pos and gnd. <BR> <BR> The inline fuse is a must. If you don't have one, go buy one. If your amp starts pulling too much power, you want the fuse to go before the circutry. Yes they have fuses on them, but when those go, it could be too late. <BR> <BR> The fuse goes within 18" of the connection to the positive terminal of the battery.

dudeman 06-16-2006 7:01 AM

Robb, I bought a Stinger amp kit with a 150 amp inline fuse. It runs 4 gauge for power into a terminal that you can run 4 amps off of with 8 gauge power wire. The ground is also 4 gauge. I have 2 Hifonics amps, 1 for the sub and 1 for the tower speakers. Does that sound like a legitimate setup?

cyclonecj 06-16-2006 7:31 AM

The fuse is not there to protect the amp, it is to protect the WIRE. If you have a dead short and no fuse, the wire could ignite and torch your boat. That's why the fuse should be close to the battery, so that the long high current wire has protection if it gets pinched.

06-17-2006 1:50 PM

My Supra came with the Amp on under the cubby on the passenger side so I'm assuming they wired right to the battery. I'm going to go look in a few minutes. I'm also going to try turing the gain down as you all suggested and see if that helps. Thanks for the tips. I'll let you all know.

06-17-2006 4:23 PM

ok...I checked the wires and turned the gain down. But after about 1/2 hour the speakers were cutting in/out again. So I guess my only option is to move it under the dash where it can get some air flow or anyone else got an idea?

06-17-2006 4:24 PM

btw...both amps are wired directly to the battery with fuses inbetween.

dudeman 06-17-2006 6:59 PM

Don't move anything yet. I turned my gain down last night to match the head unit voltage and I only advanced from 19 to 25 before mine cut out. I didn't get the factory amp and speaker install either. The only thing that seems to be constant in both of our cases, is the same head unit. Are we overlooking something obvious?. I have some rewiring from the buss, directly to the battery via inline fuse tomorrow. Let's see what happens and if I end up with the same result. Dude, I love the troubleshooting and solving new sh*t. <img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/wink.gif" border=0> <BR> <BR>

06-17-2006 7:29 PM

yea..I have the Kenwood KTS-MP400MR head unit justlike yours and the Amp is also Kenwood 720w but not sure which model, it's one of these two either the KAC-8402 or KAC-8452 so on this amp I have 2 channels on A bridged for my 4 tower speakers + the sub on the B channel. I tried turning down everything relating to the sub (B channel) so that only the A channel was playing but it still was cutting in/out after it was hot. <BR> <BR>I'm going to the lake on Sunday so I'm going to really crank it up when I first get there before the amp gets hot and see if it's cutting in out while the amps cold or determine if it's only when the kenwood amps hot. Maybe this will narrow it down further.

dudeman 06-17-2006 7:35 PM

Did you turn down the gain on both 1/2 and 3/4 channels?

lowdrag 06-18-2006 2:56 AM

William, <BR> <BR>In your case it sounds like you're overloading the amp. How do you have your speakers wired? If you're running 4 tower speakers to a bridged connection on that amp, I can see a couple of possibilities. If you've wired everything parallel, your ohm load will be way below 4 ohms which is what that amp is cabable of when bridged. If it's run in a parallel series, the ohm load may be around 4 ohms but I could see it being too much for the amp and causing clipping which could send the amp into a protection mode when you turn it up. <BR> <BR>Best bet is to buy a seperate amp for the sub and run the 4 towers on all 4 channels of the Kenwood amp.

unclesam 06-18-2006 9:12 AM

Well I have no idea what the problem is but read this. <BR> <BR><a href="http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=143" target="_blank">http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=143</a>

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