I got a great deal on the pump. Under perfect conditions at full capacity it would be capable of filling a 600 lb sack in 1 min and 10 secs. <BR> <BR>My only problem is that the pump has a 1.5" inlet and outlet and the valve on a fat sac is 3/4". So basically the bottle neck will be at the fill nozzle. What I planned to do is, is run a "T" from the outlet to each side of the fat sack fill holes. I will have to completely empty the sac of any air and attached both fittings to the sac. <BR> <BR> <BR>Do you think this will work. Another problem is actually going from 1.5" to 3/4". I might have to go through a couple reducers to make it work. <BR> <BR>What do you think? I know its overkill, but so is 14 different speakers in a boat and it was one of those deals where I got the pump cheap and even it doesnt work thought it would be a cool project. <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/181519.jpg" alt="Whats UP">

1/ Pump manufactures lie about gpms <BR>2/ Every fitting will drop the gpms <BR>3/ Sure go with the reducers. I don't think you'll make 1:10 but you'll be way faster than a regular pump. <BR>4/ Air can be an issue with Arerator pumps. How are you going to deal with it? <BR>5/ How are you going to empty it? Those pumps don't reverse. <BR>6/ Good project <BR>7/ This list is too long

Even if its pumping anywhere in the 2000-3000, it will be moving. Its not going to be mounted, I am going to just sit it on the floor of the boat and throw one tube over the side of the boat and they other tube will go back to the sacs. I can move it around until I can get it to prime, and for reverse I will just turn it it around like a normal fat sac pump. <BR> <BR>BTW, I use to have a 2001 Four Winns 180. It had a good wake with some weight up front, but I had a lot of issues with failing starters, alternators, bad customer care through volvo, and didnt like how it would porpoise and not keep good speed. Ended up buying an 80's nautique and while it lacks on rooms, it is ten fold better for wakeboarding. I had a lot of fun on the four winns and actually only lost about 1 grand after buying it brand new and using it for two years.

Just curious as to where you got that pump and how much was it?

ebay for 25 bucks. an attwood 750 gph was selling for the same price on ebay. Most pumps that you see you are bilge pumps, and this actually has an inlet and outlet like a aerator pump. I think you can find them on the net for $120 new. <BR> <BR>I just hope I find a tight clamp, because I would hate the outlet hose to slide off and start filling my boat as one big fat sac. <BR> <BR>

That's a great deal you got. <BR> <BR>You can use just a regular hose clamp but it is kind of bulky then. You could also use a small, self locking plastic tie as long as you pull it really tight. The hose won't come off that easy anyway if the hose already fits snug.

Jason, I'm not sure that pump will draw water up from over the side of the boat. Other Rule pumps I've used work on a gravity system, where the pump sits below the water line and is attached to a thru-hull. In other words, they will "push" water that is supplied to them, but they won't suck. I could be wrong. Let us know how it works out.

Jason, <BR>that pump needs to be below the water line to work. Go to your local boaters world and read the box. It will not self prime, so stick it lower than the water and your good to go, maybe buy the jabsco 3 way valve diverter, its 1 inch diameter inlet and outlets so you can direct the flow to either bags.

Rules rule, literally. Attwoods fail. New Supras have one of those Rule 3800's driving separate 1" or possibly larger sprinkler valves. Maybe that pump can deliver enough pressure to get "reasonable" flow through them dang restrictive sprankler valves

the 1 inch sprinkler valves are usually placed before the pump, when you power on the pump, valve, the sprinkler valve will open its solinoid, the pressure from the scupper valve is enought to flow through the sprinkler valve to the pump etc. I ran a system like that in my old super sport. I didnt have to open or close the seacock to let water in or out. etc.

Nope, they're after the pump. They go to multiple sacks/tanks, etc. That way you can switchem on and off and maintain somewhat reasonable watertight integrity of your vessel. At least as good as a sprinkler system<img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/smile.gif" border=0> <BR>Use good hose, don't buy crappy stuff for bilge use. <BR>

after the pump? Sounds like they copied the old hippo system, they had a manifold with three solinoids on them, opened up to each bag etc. I used the sprinkler valve as a automatic gate valve, opened up only when I wanted to fill my pump manifold.

I would use a gate valve for that, you can buy a 1.5" 12 volt one with NO minimum pressure requirements. They're 99 bucks though. Still, you have to control the flow to each sack, or the water will get pulled back through the other pumps, if you have separate pumps for each sack.

I use that pump in my boat, I have it mounted in the hull with 2 x 2 way valves to reverse it. I use a smaller rule pump to prime it and it works really well. <BR> <BR>I have two sacks and I just swap the fill/empty hose from one to the other and have simple on off valves to shut off the sacks. <BR> <BR>Have fun

anyone have a diagram showing their ballast set up?

Psyclone; <BR> <BR>Where do you buy those gate valves? W <BR>hat the brand name?