Question about stereo rewire and adding tower speakers
 

I am planning on adding a set of Rev 10's, powered by a Syn4 to my tower. Currently the boat is running 2 amps, 8 in-boats, 1 sub and 2 sets of tower speakers. It is configured with 2 batteries and a Blue Sea battery switch. Currently, it has no distribution block for the wiring and I think I am going to gut out the current setup and rewire. I have a few questions about how to wire though.

The plan right now is to run a 1/0 guage wire from the B + of the second battery with an inline fuse to the distribution block. 1st question. From what I understand, this fuse needs to equal the fuse total of all amps being run from the distribution block? The 2 amps I currently have in there both have 2x30amp fuses and the Syn4 runs 3x30amp fuses (could be mistaken on Syn4 since I don't have it yet). Does this mean the inline fuse needs to equal 210 amps (60+60+90)?

From the inline fuse, I will continue running the 1/0 guage to the distribution block. The distribution block will have 3 4gauge outputs. From what I understand, the distribution block should also be fused for the associated amp fuses. Therefore, I would have 2x 60 amp fuses and 1x 90amp fuse in the distribution block? From there, I would simply run 4 gauge to the power input on the amps. The negatives of the amps would run a 4 gauge back to a different distrbution block which has a 1/0 guage out to the negative of the 2nd battery. Does this distribution block need to be fused and does there need to be another inline fuse like the positive?

Sorry for my ignorance but I appreciate your help.

M

Look into something like this. For some reason it is discontinued all of a sudden, but Im sure you can still get them else where
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...TPFDB-4PG.html
And no, your grounds will not have any fuses inline. Your on the right track with the inline fuse. A 200 amp should be perfect

Matt,

The ground side does not need to be fused as you cant short a ground to ground.

The role of the main circuit protection is to protect that main trunk line that is feeding the amps. That main fuse or breaker needs to high enough carry the load of the amps, but not to exceed the current carrying capacity of the main trunk cabling. This is a matter of current draw x distance. If all the amps have their own internal fusing, a fused distribution block may be redundant.

Matt,
No fuse on the ground side.
So with two amplifiers totaling 210 amps you could select a 200 or 250 master fuse for example. A slightly smaller 200 amp master fuse in this case is more than sufficient.
You do not need a fused B+ distribution block if the distribution block is very close to the amplifiers. The function of this external fusing is to protect the boat and occupants in the event of an accident that would short the B+ cable. So the rule is to re-fuse to the appropriate size fuse commensurate with the cable size while using the minimum fuse size based on the maximum amplifier draw. However, there is so liitle exposure and risk with these extrememly short extensions (from distribution block to amplifiers) that the redundant distribution fusing is hard to justify. Do your layout so that the extensions are purposely short and skip a fused distribution block. But respect the master fuse closest to the source.

David
Earmark Marine

No ground fuse.. But definitely fuse close to battery on power wire of amps total fuses..

You fuse for the wire size your running. Not what the amps for the amplifiers add up to.

example
#8 - fuse at 100A
#4 - fuse at 150A
#2 - fuse at 225A
1/0 - fuse at 300A

Thats the easiest way to determine what size fuse you need.

If I run 1 gauge with a 300A then a distribution block. Do I need more another fuse on the 4 gauge in between the distribution and the amp.

Also what distribution block do ya'll recommend.

Listen to David from Earmark. Just put a 200 amp fuse in there.

No, just put a fuse or breaker shortly after the battery or perko, then you'll be good from there.

There's a link in my first post to the distro block I bought. It does have individual fuses in the distro block which is over kill, but I like having the built in volt meter that it has in it. That way I can keep an eye on how depleted the batteries are.

What he said ^^^.

Does the one you posted allow you to run the positive and negative through the same block or am it just reading the description wrong.

Final question, do I need to run this off the perko terminal somehow or do I just run it straight from the 2nd battery? It looks like what is currently on there is coming from the 2nd battery

The reason it is discontinued is because Metra changed their premium product from Tsunami to TSpec... So Tsunami is no longer available unless you have inventory... Fusing or using a breaker for the total amps fusing over the size of cabling is for one, a cheaper solution, The higher amperage cost more... They are mainly meant for safety from shorts and over powering... There is a reason they make different amperage fusing and breakers for different gauged wire... I will say I prefer and do breakers more than fuses... :). The example brad gave is for not exceeding the wires capability to pass current.. It is very common to only fuse to protect the product but not exceed the wires capability.. The reason we recommend 1/0 trunk line is actually more because of voltage drop...

If you have a conventional dual battery switch without an accompanying ACR/VSR, then everything audio needs to run to the Perko rather than battery-direct.

David
Earmark Marine

So if you just have a switch and no ACR/VSR, then do you go straight to the 2nd battery?

Go to the common lug on the switch with the B+. If you already have a 2nd battery and wanting to add a 3rd to build a house battery bank, than just wire them in parallel and your system will see those 2 batteries as one big battery.

David, I do in fact have a VSR. Does that mean I go to B+?

probably. A diagram of your system would help.