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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Wednesday, November 25, 2009 - 7:35 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Heaven help me! I'm going to do another e.wood compsand. I built this e.balsa compsand a few years ago. I like the way the e.balsa rides, but the look is a little 'pergo flooring' like.

I thought that I would leave the grain showing and dye it translucent red. I was following a thread about dying e.balsa that used Rit dye rather than the more expensive wood dyes.

The process uses Rit dye and Isopropyl Alcohol. The theory is that the Alky evaporates quickly leaving the dyed wood behind.

The mixture:

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Wednesday, November 25, 2009 - 7:38 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I mixed up a smll batch to do a test.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Wednesday, November 25, 2009 - 7:42 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
The raw e.balsa.

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By TXSurf (bac) on Wednesday, November 25, 2009 - 7:43 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
And he's at it again!

Can't wait to see the finished product! I absolutely love the look of wooden boards!

 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Wednesday, November 25, 2009 - 7:48 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Using a cheap sponge (and don't forget the gloves!) I spread the dye and alky solution on a section of the raw e.wood. The alky evaporates very quickly leaving dried and dyed e.balsa.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Wednesday, November 25, 2009 - 7:54 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
@ TXSurf - I like the look of the e.wood too, but I'd like to get a little different look...not sure I like the dyed look though.

The board I built a few years ago, before external lamination.

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By jim beam (brewkettle) on Thursday, December 03, 2009 - 9:02 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
i remember , nice board ,
 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Thursday, December 03, 2009 - 9:36 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Thanks. I'm loving the look of the e.wood pinlines on this board. The rails are built up using e.balsa and e.cedar (I think). The darker color, looks cool to me.

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By Mitch (wakemitch) on Thursday, December 03, 2009 - 9:47 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
wow jeff. thats looks so good!
 
By Joe B (sailing216) on Friday, December 04, 2009 - 5:52 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
How much does it weigh?

I love the look of wood, but that other thread with the beautiful all wood boards had their small fish surfboard come in at I think was 11 or 13lbs. Granted small was just under 6ft.

The dark wood contrast looks great.

 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Friday, December 04, 2009 - 5:57 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Yeah the HWS weigh a ton, the board above isn't mine (note the shaping bay that is INDOORS! :-) ) but I think it weighs a ton also, it's a solid balsa board that was CNC'ed to shape...mix of old and new school.

I also like the deck inlay of the checkerboard veneer they did on the deck.

My e.balsa compansand only weighed about 4 pounds, ready to ride. I think that was 3mm e.balsa skins.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Friday, December 04, 2009 - 1:56 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I also really like Josh "Speedneedle" Dowling's rail treatment. e.Paulownia and D-cell layers. There's some practical advantage to these also. The super lightweight e.wood tends to soak water like a sponge, and of course a low density EPS core will give a nice home to water. The D-cell is closed cell and water-proof'ish. Tasteful paint pinline between skin and rails.

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By J.L. (mobster) on Sunday, December 06, 2009 - 2:04 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
here are few of rock's latest will have some finished board laterUpload
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Upload the weight so far is just over 2 lbs
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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Sunday, December 06, 2009 - 3:01 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Rock's doing all of the various build methodologies. That board is going to look sweet with a gloss.
 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Wednesday, December 09, 2009 - 7:43 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
The big snow storm of '09 has set me back some :-)

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Wednesday, December 09, 2009 - 7:45 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Wednesday, December 09, 2009 - 7:56 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
This e.balsa compsand will be a perimeter stringered board. The rails will be e.wood and built up to about 1/2" or so. The skins will be 2.5 mm e.balsa top and bottom. With the e.wood rails there are a few differet ways to attach the skins. 1) The skins don't wrap the rails. 2) The bottom doesn't wrap the rails but the top does and 3) Both the top and bottom skins wrap the rails. The theory is that wrapping the rails stiffens the top or bottom skin somewhat. I my first attempt, I didn't wrap bottom and didn't notice any benefit.

For this build, I want to have some different color wood or stripes so I will only wrap the first two layers of the e.balsa build up.

I'm starting the rail buildup with some leftover divinycell. The d-cell will protect the core in case I get a ding on the rails. The e.balsa will suck water like a sponge, but the d-cell will prevent ot from migrating into the eps core.

I use my hotwire rocker template to rough out the shape on the d-cell, leaving it as a 2" band which will cover the full thickness and give me some to shape away.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Wednesday, December 09, 2009 - 8:02 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I do the same thing with two sheets of e.balsa per side, forming a patchwork as I'm using 4' lengths. I overlap the seams but place the seams closer to the nose where it's not overly important.

It's hard to see, but along the rails 3mm dcell and then 2 layers of e.balsa.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Thursday, December 10, 2009 - 6:11 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Out of the bag first few layers of rail material attached. Bottom shape is next.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Thursday, December 10, 2009 - 8:24 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I'm going to add diagonal pieces on tha tail. In ocean compsand's the theory is that the diagnoal's create more flex in the area covered by the diagonal. I've done them before and behind the boat, I couldn't tell any difference, so I'm using them strictly for cosmetics in an effort to avoid the look of pergo florring.

I start by laying out a sheet of paper that I trace the tail on. When I am creating the diagonal pieces, the outline of the paper gives me a visual so that I can cut the end of the diagonal out by the rail.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Thursday, December 10, 2009 - 8:26 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Some seuence shots to give an indication of what the diagonals will look like.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Thursday, December 10, 2009 - 8:30 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
With the diagonals done, I'll cut the lengthwise pieces so that butt up against the diagonals. The only tricky part is I wanted a "plank" down the center, so I had to notch the "V" where the end of the diagonals meet.

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By chris (rio_sanger) on Thursday, December 10, 2009 - 9:14 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Good to see you to working with wood again Jeff! Working with it is the first step to overcoming your aversion to it!

Just think, some day you may be able to hug a tree

 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Friday, December 11, 2009 - 7:35 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
LOL! There is NO TREE HUGGING in my future. :-) It's not that I have an aversion to working with e.wood, I just HATE the stuff. :-)

The deep ricj tones of the e.wood after lamination, can't be beat, but getting the stuff to that point makes me crazy!

I'd like to try a chambered / hollow e.balsa that is cnc'ed. I think that look "might" be worth the trouble.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Friday, December 11, 2009 - 8:33 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
The planks don't need to be exact, but very very close is good :-) I'll vacuum bag them down and with a 2 oz eglass underneath, there is a little bit of swelling and "compaction" that tends to manage minor imperfections.

Right side, both sides and rough mockup of all the pieces.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Friday, December 11, 2009 - 8:33 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
The planks don't need to be exact, but very very close is good :-) I'll vacuum bag them down and with a 2 oz eglass underneath, there is a little bit of swelling and "compaction" that tends to manage minor imperfections.

Right side, both sides and rough mockup of all the pieces.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Saturday, December 12, 2009 - 12:16 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
The core of the compsand is 1# eps. It's super light and basically just separates the skins. However, that also means the fin boxes are sunk in anything solid. With a HD foam skin, it's easy enough to notch the top skin which prevents the fin box from flexing under load.

Another option is a hd foam insert, but I have found that creates a fulcrum between the HD and LD foam and fractures/delams start at the transition from the HD to LD foam. So for this build, I'm going to sink some e.balsa into the eps before shaping the bottom.

The e.balsa box supports cut to size, sunk into the box and the bottom single concave shaped.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Saturday, December 12, 2009 - 12:21 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I align all of the skin pieces and then tape them together. The tape doesn't do anything other than hold them together until I can lay it flat on the shaped board. I flip the front of the tap over creating a "tab". The tab won't get stuck down by the vaccuum and makes it easier to remove the tape after I pull the board out of the bag. Otherwise, I'd spend hours with a razor blade trying to pull up an edge.

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By Duffy Mahoney (duffymahoney) on Saturday, December 12, 2009 - 12:27 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Super cool jeff!
 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Saturday, December 12, 2009 - 12:46 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Thanks Duffy!

After I have all the pieces taped up, I carry it out to the shop and lay it in the roker bed, then place the shaped eps core on top, align it and mark the outline pretty close to the final shape. I'll trim it later with 36 grit on a block.

This is the "inside" side of the bottom skin.

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By Show (bigshow) on Saturday, December 12, 2009 - 12:50 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
knew you were a carpenter!
 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Saturday, December 12, 2009 - 12:55 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I laminate the skins to the core using 2 oz eglass. It's exceptionally light, the bottom fabric weighs less than 2 oz in total. A proper resin to fabric ratio would be 1:1, but it's really hard for a garage builder to measure out 1.5 oz of epoxy - well at least it is for me! :-) I mixed up 5 oz of epoxy, and wound up with almost 2 oz waste. I also used about 1 oz of epoxy and with a small paint brush, painted some epoxy all along the outside inch or some of the skin, so that it would stick well to the rail build up and core.

The 1.5 oz of epoxy was then pushed into the e-glass and I laid that down on the core, then carefully picked up the skin and laid that down on the core/laminate combination, tape side out :-)

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Saturday, December 12, 2009 - 1:01 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
@ Show, so not!!!! Or if I am by default, it's a reluctant one! :-)

I forgot to mention, in the picture above, that I tape the skin ONTO the core in 4 places, just to prevent a disaster, as I move the core/skin into the bag.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Saturday, December 12, 2009 - 4:51 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Bottom skin attached, tape removed but the skin is not trimmed flush to the rails yet.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Saturday, December 12, 2009 - 4:54 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Trimmed flush. You can see a little bit of resin bleed through - that distressed me no end on my first build, but it disappears with the exterior lamination. The entire surface will absorb the resin and the bleed through blends right in.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Saturday, December 12, 2009 - 4:59 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
To trim the slight overhang on the skin flush to the rails, I start with a single edge razor and run it such that the "handle" is flush with the rails, which leaves about 1/32" left over and then I use a sanding block to bring the rest down flush.

The next step will be shaping the deck to the final foil. Then I will finish building out the rails.

 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Saturday, December 12, 2009 - 7:28 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Deck shaped. This build technique does pose one challenge. I still have rail material to add, so as I am shaping the deck, I am visualizing the finished rail. If I had a rail guage (the rail shape template) I could have used that to continually measure my progress.

Ready for the deck skin:

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 7:49 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I wanted to do something on the deck to break up the "pergo"'ness of the balsa planks, but so much of the deck is covered with traction, it was a challenge for my e.wood averse (adverse? :-) ) brain. So I decided on doing a diagonal pattern on the nose similar to the tail on the bottom.

Rather than 4" wide planks, I decided on 2" wide planks...visually, the 4" diagonal at the nose seemed to overpower the concept. The first thing I did was take a spare 4" wide plank and split it into 2 - 2" wide planks.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 7:51 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Then using the "core" I made a template on some paper, of the nose shape so that I could cut out the nose diagonal pieces.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 7:53 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
The nose diagonals cut and aligned.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 7:55 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Again, the biggest challenge here is fitting the center plank into the "V" of the nose diagonals.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 7:58 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
All the pieces cut and aligned.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Tuesday, December 15, 2009 - 6:30 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I'm going to tape and trim the deck tonight. The deck on this board is "mostly" flat, but there is some dome to it especially out at the rails. The e.woodworking guys have a bead and cove bit set that will allow the "boards" to "curve" along a flat surface. In my situation, the planks will curve to conform to the surface, but I knock the inside bottom of each blank to allow the planks to more easily butt against each other without a gap on the surface.

I swiped this picture from some demented website for those e.woodworkers:

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Tuesday, December 15, 2009 - 7:38 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Taped and aligned and then a relatively close trim to the outline, leaving enough to accomodate the dome on the deck.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Tuesday, December 15, 2009 - 7:43 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I'll attach the deck to the ore using 2 oz eglass. I also add a patch under the deck where the feet are. The external lamination will then be a single 4 oz top and bottom. To help the e.balsa conform to the the start of the radius of the rails, I'll thin the last 2 inches along the area that meets the rails using 60 grit.
 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Wednesday, December 16, 2009 - 7:30 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Deck being attached. The sandwich layer for the deck is double 2 oz on a bias, 0/90.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Thursday, December 17, 2009 - 4:48 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
The deck skin still needs to be trimmed along the rails and nose, but the general look. It currently weighs 2.25 pounds.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Thursday, December 17, 2009 - 7:28 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
In a semi-tribute to a bygone era of e.redwood boards, I opted to build up the rails with a single layer of e.redwood, the remaining layers will be e.balsa. My source was the garden department of Home Depot. :-) 3/16" e.redwood bender board.

I'm going to bag these separately as the e.wood is a bit stiff.

The blank with the deck skin trimmed flush.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Thursday, December 17, 2009 - 7:29 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Rail e.wood.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Thursday, December 17, 2009 - 7:33 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
This part took two people, I held the bender board up to the blank and Judy ran the felt tip marker along the outside.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Thursday, December 17, 2009 - 7:35 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
A couple of minutes later I have the one rail cut out. I transfer that to the other board, being careful to avoid any knots - because e.wood is evil.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Friday, December 18, 2009 - 7:37 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I am bagging the e.redwood as it didn't stick well with super glue. I think that I will bag the first e.balsa rail material to the e.redwood, after that when it is e.balsa to e.balsa I will use the CA glue.

I paint the inside of the e.redwood with epoxy.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Friday, December 18, 2009 - 7:40 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I hold the rail material in place with masking tape, and since I am holding the e.redwood down with one hand, I cut a bunch of tape pieces in advance to make applying them easier.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Friday, December 18, 2009 - 7:43 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I attach the e.redwood by ailgning the nose and then rolling it back towards the middle. The first piece of tape then holds it in place and I work towards the nose, then from the middle to the tail...very similar to laps.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Friday, December 18, 2009 - 7:47 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
The rail material all taped up. You can see that the e.redwood will leave a "pinline" along the rail after I shape it down.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Friday, December 18, 2009 - 7:50 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
In the bag pressure everywhere. I noticed that I didn't get the left side of the rail material pulled tight at the last inch by the nose, so I'll have to "fix" that, possibly with a nose block.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Saturday, December 19, 2009 - 5:51 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Out of the bag this morning. It's a little hard to see, but I've attempted to tack down the left part of the rail up at the nose with some 5 min epoxy. I'll leave it taped up until this evening.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Saturday, December 19, 2009 - 7:35 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
ehhhh - I sorta fixed the nose, but I'll probably rework it later.

Block plane to bring the excess e.redwood "close" to the surface of the e.balsa. I'll blend it all in after I add the last few layers of e.balsa rail material.

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By dtw. (notsobueno) on Saturday, December 19, 2009 - 9:51 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Dad, that board looks very very nice.

Is that the same table we are having Christmas dinner on?

 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Sunday, December 20, 2009 - 6:42 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Thanks dtw. Yes! What are you bringing for us ALL to feast on? Sooooo kind of you to bring ALL the food. :-)
 
By dtw. (notsobueno) on Sunday, December 20, 2009 - 8:11 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Pizza. God's gift to dining, any occasion.
 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Sunday, December 20, 2009 - 7:35 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Not another traditional Christmas Pizza!

Finished building the rails up. The CA glue didn't work well on the e.redwood because anything wood is EVIL! :-) I just mixed up 85 bazillion batches of 5 minute epoxy to glue the rail material down. Then used masking tape to hold it in place.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Sunday, December 20, 2009 - 7:40 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I still need to add a tail block and I think I'll do a nose block too. The basi structure is complete at this point.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Sunday, December 20, 2009 - 7:42 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
James has gotten in to the cat, too. Grip tape for his new Integrity wakeskate - the white in teh grip tape he cut with a single edge razor!

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By dtw. (notsobueno) on Monday, December 21, 2009 - 11:37 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
You guys need your own HGTV...er Fuel tv show.

"Surfdad & Surfson"

 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Monday, December 21, 2009 - 7:42 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
LOL - I read Surfson as Surfusion. :-)

I'm going to add a tailblock to finish up the tail. I start by drawing a heavy line where the final shape of the tail will be. The tail block will be composed of alternating layers of e.redwood and e.balsa and running on a diagonal. If you look closely in the picture you'll see the pencil line where I'll cut the board to glue on the tail block.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Monday, December 21, 2009 - 7:43 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
This gives an idea of what the layers will look like when finished.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Monday, December 21, 2009 - 7:48 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I cut 6 pieces each of 1" x 7.5" e.redwood and e.balsa, slathered each with epoxy and stacked them in a alternating pattern. Each piece had a mill finished end and I stacked the pieces so that the milled ends are together. After glued and stacked, I wrapped some masking tape on each end to allow handling.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Monday, December 21, 2009 - 7:51 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I made a quick and cheap vacuum bag from a quart sized baggie. I placed a section of e.redwood on the bottom so that the milled ends would line up and "hopefully" give me one square side. The pieces in the bag and vacuum pulled.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Tuesday, December 22, 2009 - 5:07 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Out of the bag this morning and a rough visual of what the tail will look like. The two sections will meet in the middle with @ 45 degree angle and will be shaped to the rounded squash like dark line.

You can also get a good idea of the visuals that can be achieved with various e.woods or even e.wood and cork/HD foam.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Tuesday, December 22, 2009 - 7:08 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
"Artist"'s rendering of what the tail will look like as I shape it up. The 45'ish degree angles sawn and sanded.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Tuesday, December 22, 2009 - 7:15 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I'm gluing up the two pieces of the tailblock first. Then I'll align that on the tail of the board to to mark the cut through the board, hopefully that will net me a perfect match.

Inasmuch as, I am now a master e.woodworker, I decided to swap the layers of the e.wood on the tail block - because that's all you can do with the stupid stuff! :-)

I'll sand and match the various surfaces and then 5 min epoxy the tail block to the board. Once that is all attached, I'll start the planing, cutting and sanding for ages.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Tuesday, December 22, 2009 - 8:12 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Cut the diagonal to fit the tail block and epox'ied it up.

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By steven breazeale (breazy) on Wednesday, December 23, 2009 - 3:23 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Jeff why do you add e infront of the wood type like e.balsa? Im confused by that, other than that the build looks great, hopefully it will ride that way too
 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Wednesday, December 23, 2009 - 5:00 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Thanks for the props Steven and for following along. The e. is for EVIL. :-) The Readers Digest version: My first attempt at building an e.balsa compsand (the very first picture way up in the thread) was riddled with problems. The foam I ordered got lost in Oakland and never made it. The warehouse of the retailer where I originally ordered my sheets of e.balsa BURNED DOWN after I placed my order, but before shipment. Everything that COULD got wrong did! :-) The running joke from all the e.woodworkers is that wood is GOOD. And boy did they go out of their way to make sure I heard about it. I, being a more rational person than those folks, know the truth. That truth is wood is EVIL. Hence, e.balsa, e.redwood and all things e.wood. :-)
 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Wednesday, December 23, 2009 - 5:18 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
I had to share this photo from Sway's. The board was made by Austin Custom Surfboards. They are known for their resin work and the pattern on this is in resin, not airbrushed, according to them. Amazing by itself, but my eye caught the "no pop outs" stickers in the top of the window. :-)

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Wednesday, December 23, 2009 - 7:55 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
The shaping of the tail block.

The outline that I cut:

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Rough cut of the shape:

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Wednesday, December 23, 2009 - 8:03 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Several passes with the electric planer and then some with the hand plane, rough sanded with 60#. I still have 3.7 days of sanding left :-)

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Wednesday, December 23, 2009 - 8:10 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
From a few feet:

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Saturday, December 26, 2009 - 12:51 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Next is the nose block. Mostly it will just fill the gap where the rails meet at the nose, but the piece of e.redwood will add some resistance to crushing/denting the nose.

I'll shape a small "plug" and then route a matching hole in the nose. I am using the soft e.balsa on the outside of the block as it's much easier to shape than the e.redwood.

I am gluing this up with titebond e.wood glue.

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Clamps everywhere and a quick visual of what the plug will look like.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Saturday, December 26, 2009 - 3:08 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I cut a round on the end of the nose block and matched that in the board. Then traced the rocker and outline on the material after fitting the material to the cutout.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Saturday, December 26, 2009 - 3:08 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I cut a round on the end of the nose block and matched that in the board. Then traced the rocker and outline on the material after fitting the material to the cutout.

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Saturday, December 26, 2009 - 3:12 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Rough cut of the outline and rocker and test fitting the nose block...note the "fitment" tool in the right hand side of the picture. :-)

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By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Saturday, December 26, 2009 - 3:21 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
...and epoxied in. I'm not a good e.wood worker, but I this this build gives an idea what COULD be accomplished by an accomplished e.wood worker that knew how to select appropriate shades of wood and match them.

I believe that when this is finished, I'll send it to Mike Walker of TWP to laminate it.

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By Duffy Mahoney (duffymahoney) on Saturday, December 26, 2009 - 7:45 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
So my family got me a blank from this company.
http://ecuadortrek.com/logcabins/blanks.htm

It's roughly the size and of my ja mako and I am going to build a quad out of it. It's 2 solid pieces with a sinlge stringer. I guess it has a wakesurf style rocker(It's being shipped, I haven't seen it yet) and it's thick around 4 inches now. How thick does it need to be? How does it float compared to styrofoam? I plan on making a hybrid-comp1- ja mako that is a future fin quad. Any suggestions?

 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Saturday, December 26, 2009 - 8:40 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
SWEET! Balsa blanks are not cheap, you scored. I know those folks sell a balsa wood skim style board, already shaped and glassed. I was unaware that they had a wakesurf sized blank.

They sell those blanks in two styles hollow chambered and solid. You mentioned it was a single stringer with two solid pieces, if it's not chambered then you can bring it down about the same dimensions of your Ja Mako, but read below. If it's chambered, you don't want to cut into a chamber so you'd probably only have 1" top and bottom, to shape away.

Balsa will be heavy, even chambered it will be...maybe three times heavier than your EPS boards. It floats great, but with the added weight you'll probably want to leave it a tad thicker than your Ja Mako. Maybe 1/8" to a 1/4".

What a GREAT project! I can't wait to see the progress. If you get a chance, can you post up some pictures for us.

 
By Duffy Mahoney (duffymahoney) on Saturday, December 26, 2009 - 9:32 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
It is solid. I guess my brother measured my ja mako and it's a blank that is modeled after it's shape. I will post some pictures when it comes. I'm excited, I know they spent a lot of money on the blank so I don't want to screw it up!
 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Sunday, December 27, 2009 - 5:39 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
It sounds like they had the blank resawn to match the rocker on your Ja Mako. That's sweet, it'll make the shaping easier for you. Can't wait to see it!
 
By Duffy Mahoney (duffymahoney) on Sunday, December 27, 2009 - 9:24 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
So I talked to the guy that builds the board. I was wrong it's big enough to make a ja mako or? Basically it's just a big piece of balsa wood with a rocker. It's 5'X21"X2.5" with the rocker built it. The rocker now is a direct copy of the hyperlite broadcast. How is this rocker different from my boards? Seems like the 2.5 thick could allow me to change the rocker a little if needed?
 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Sunday, December 27, 2009 - 5:58 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
You know, my guess is that the rocker is standard from the long boards. You're right, the 2.5" thickness will allow you to shape some extra nose and tail rocker, but if the rocker on the blank is already too much...you may have to get creative.

I'd bet you'll have enough material to get your rockers to match.

What I would do now, while you're waiting for your blank to arrive is get an accurate measure of the rocker on your Ja Mako.

Measure the exact mid point of your Ja Mako (something like 2' 5.5" ) and mark it on the stringer with a pencil dot. Then put your Ja Mako on a set of racks or sawhorses so that the middle of the board is level (use a carpenter's level). Find a piece of pipe or wood that is straight and flat - aluminum channel or angle works great - and longer than your Ja Mako. Put in on the dot and measure from the bottom of your "straight thing" :-) to the board at various points. I like to measure at 1 foot intervals and then at the very end of the nose and tail.

Be careful on your Ja Mako at the tail, I believe it has a V in the last few inches. The center will be higher than the rails by a fraction, be sure to measure down the stringer.

Once you get your blank, you can transfer the measurements you noted above, to the blank and you should have a perfect match of the rocker.

I'm really looking forward to your build!

 
By Duffy Mahoney (duffymahoney) on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 10:01 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Should I do black future fin boxes or white boxes? Do you know where to find the fin box router jig? I already have a nice router so all I need is the jig. I can't seem to find it. I am thinking of using s glass to cut down on weight. What resin would you use?
 
By Mitch (wakemitch) on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 10:11 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
why do you call it e.wood?

i looked it up and couldnt find anything

 
By Duffy Mahoney (duffymahoney) on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 10:23 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Jeff here is the rocker info that the balsa was shaped to. I hope it's not that far off from what I want.

Nose Rocker: 7.36 cm/2.90 in.
Tail Rocker: 2.03 cm/0.80 in.

 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 10:39 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
@ Mitch e. = evil. See above for more details, you wakeskaters just don't read. :-) Or try googling evil wood. :-)

@ Duffy. For awhile there Futures was rumored to be switching to just natural because the dye to make either black or white "supposedly" affected the strength of the plastic boxes. I can still get both black or white, so really it's just personal preference in terms of asethetics.

The Futures Router jig is compatible with the Ryobi Router. I have a few higher end routers, but the base won't fit - basically it's a laminate trimmer and not a full on router. I've tried to attach a picture and you can see the large black collar, the router slips into that collar. Give Mark at Lakewakes a shout, he has an account with Futures and can get the jig, I'm not sure if they sell it without the router though. Alternatively, Foamez stocks the full kit, you can check with Grant they are very helpful.

http://www.lakewakes.com
http://www.foamez.com

I'm confused by your s glass comment. E or S is sold by weight, so 4 oz e or s will still weigh 4 oz / yard. Were you planning on using 4 oz S instead of 6 oz E? or using fewer layers?

I'm a big fan of Epoxy simply because it's much less toxic and you don't need a respirator (I like to call it a breathilator :-) ). However, it's a pain to get a nice gloss with. On your wooden board, you're going to want to get a gorgeous gloss so the wood shows through. Personally I'd opt for Sylmar Polyester. If you go with Epoxy, the standard is Resin Research. I like Foamez.com for resin also, they are a bit more expensive, but super helpful.

Upload

 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 10:41 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Duffy, you're golden on the rocker. You'll need to mow some wood, but not much.
 
By Duffy Mahoney (duffymahoney) on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 11:09 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Thanks for all the help, I thought s-glass was stronger with less weight. IE using 4oz instead of 6oz. How many layers would you use? How strong is balsa compared to styrofoam? Can I get away with using less? Weight savings are a concern but so is keeping it strong. I think white boxes would look great with the balsa.
 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 12:00 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
You're welcome, I'm very interested in your build. S isn't lighter than E - 4 oz or 6 oz is the same weight wether it's E, S, Warp, Impact or even Tex. S is stronger than E, you're right, but the physicals show it as only about 5 to 10% more. I won't bore you with dissertation, but in a nutshell: Most fabric is rated on tension, but that's principally meaningless in a wakesurfer. Compression is more important, but isn't rated because the resin has such a HUGE influence here.

Solid Balsa in the size you're getting will be plenty strong, that really isn't an issue. The biggest problem with balsa is that it sucks water like a sponge and if you get a ding, you have to fix it before getting it wet again. If allowed to stay wet the wood will turn black and gets soft. The difference between laminating with 4 oz and 6 oz, in this situation is probably about 10 to 12 oz in total, not very much in what this board will finally weigh. So...if I were you, I'd opt for the greater strength of 6 oz over 4 oz to help improve ding resistance. I'd have a hard time justifying the increased cost of S over E if you opt for Polyester resin. The Polyester will polish up giving you a mirror like shine, which I'd think is significant with this board, but it's a pretty soft "plastic". In my experience, the flexural strength of Polyester is weaker than S glass at 6 oz and so you don't gain anything except lightening of the wallet. :-)

So...recapping, if this were my project:

1) I'd use Polyester resin so that I can get a perfect gloss finish

2) I'd go with 6 oz e glass to help provide solid ding resistance. - 6/6 top, 6 bottom.

 
By Duffy Mahoney (duffymahoney) on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 1:56 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I think I will listen to Surdads wisdom:-) I wonder how much this thing is going to weight when done?
 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 2:25 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Well, lessons learned if not true wisdom! Balsa denisty varies wildly. The RC aircraft guys will sort through sticks to get 4-6 pound density wood...more typical is 6-8 pound density and higher. Your Ja Mako probably has between 2 and 3 pound density foam. My guess is it will weight between 8 and 12 pounds without traction or fins.
 
By Duffy Mahoney (duffymahoney) on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 4:27 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I could just the nose off, like my comp1 to save some weight (or just copy my comp1 but make it have more of a ja mako rear tail), I was also thinking about using a router to make the traction pads level with the finished surface. Has anyone ever done that? I thought it would look cool and save some lbs.
 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 5:08 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Darren's waveskate had those recesses, I'm not sure if he filled them with traction though. Darren's build.

I do believe the most effective way to lighten a solid balsa board is to chamber it. Perhaps something for you to consider, Duffy. I swiped some pictures of a chambered build, below. In a nutshell, the process would be to rip the blank lengthwise. into several sections. Tack glue them back together to shape the board down to the final thickness, length and outline, then pop the sections apart and cut chambers into the sections - leave enough meat on the deck and for "ribs". When that's done, glue it all back up and finish shaping.

Pictures:

Upload
Upload

 
By Duffy Mahoney (duffymahoney) on Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 9:42 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Yeah that looks pretty crazy! I don't think I will go that extreme. I would be super affraid I would end up making expensive firewood out of the blank:-)
 
By dtw. (notsobueno) on Friday, January 08, 2010 - 7:21 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I got to hold dad's wood creation today. SUUUUUUUPER light. Very impressive. Tried to talk Dennis into letting me drive over it with my car, but no luck.


 
By Jeff Walker (surfdad) on Friday, January 08, 2010 - 7:38 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
WTH! Wait...it is e.wood, maybe...
 
By dtw. (notsobueno) on Friday, January 08, 2010 - 8:23 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I wish that thing was finished....I wanted to try it
 

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