Here is what I started with about $20 from west marine
First I had to weld strap to the top and bottom of the swivel to widen where the bolts would be. That way I could use the same bolts that were in the base while still keeping the fore and aft adjusment.
more to come
|here is the rough product before cleaning the welds up and paint. |
You can see where I added c-channel on the top part of the swivel to further strengthen the assembly.
When you swivel the seat it does not hit the side interior of the boat because I mounted the swivel towards the back of the seat. However the seat is not as solid with the added leverage this places on the swivel as opposed to having the swivel in the middle of the seat. But its not bad.
|Ok chad, how much to make a bracket exacly like that for mine???? |
|I have one of those swivels that I will gladly send someone. It is brand new. I know where there is a used one also that is a freebee! |
Email me if you want one.
|Mark I would be happy to make you one. If you can get a swivel from Pheaton then you'd be set. I'll weld it together for you for $30 plus shipping. The only thing is we need to make sure your tornado has the same seat aka same bolt spacing as my elite-V. |
|That looks great. I want to do that to my Nautique. How is it? Have you re-installed the seat is there any slop or movment side to side that you didnt have before you did the conversion?? And how much Height does it add Thanks G |
|Woops I didnt see all the text of your post, Chad Do you think it would be better to put the swivle in the middle of the seat, What Im trying to say would you do it again the same way?|
The swivel adds an 1 1/4" to the height. It does have a little more play than before (before it was solid). I would say that the front of the seat now will move up and down around 1/4 inch or so. The movement is when you try to rock the seat up and down. I don't think that a person will ever notice it on the water though.
I had to put the swivel towards the rear of the seat so that it would clear the side of the boat when it swivels. The only other option I had was to offset the seat to the left. I chose the first. No doubt your nautique will be different. If you unbolt your seat and swivel by hand it will give you a good idea if clearance will be an issue or not.
|Chad what are the hole dimensions and the over all dimension of the seat.|
|Chad what are the hole dimensions and the over all dimension of the seat swivel.|
|Just wait over time the swivel get's loose and becomes a sloppy mess. Just one of the reasons I removed mine. To each his own though. |
One swivel has been spoken for still have one left.
|Chad I bet your boat has way more room than myn so Im guessing I will have to do the same thing as you did? |
Pheton: Do you think I should do this to my boat. The reason I ask is I think you a pretty good Idea, of what I will accecept, Ill let you be the judge?
Or is there a diffrent type of swivle that will reamin tighter over time, and what do you think One of your's is good and the other Bad is it just one has more hrs on it? that the other
Since Phaeton is doubting whether this swivel will hold up or not, and maybe for good reason since he has some experience. I am going to redesign this swivel so that it will take the abuse and last my lifetime. I am working on it right now and I will post pics tommorrow of my success or failure.
|personally if i have to change it every year because it becomes sloppy, that is fine because i feel the benifit to having a swival seat is far greater. Just my thought.|
|Here is the updated version of the swivel seat. I used a sealed roller bearing welded between the first swivel. Any slop from before has been eliminated. This swivel should last. The only movement now is from the fore and aft slide that was original equiptment. This movement from the slide is very minimal. It will raise the seat almost 2 inches, and the assembly weights around 12 pounds! |
Here is the bearing I used
Here is the seat assembly before paint
Thanks to Pheaton this swivel is alot stronger and I believe it will last for years without noticable wear. However the price went up.
email me if anyone is interested in one.
|So Chad did you take the swivel completly out and just used a bearing?|
I used both the swivel and the bearing. This way the swivel still has the locking capabilities. Meaning you can lock the seat solid or move the lever and swivel the seat.
P.S. Steve if you still need the bolt hole dimensions and the over all dimension of the seat swivel I will get those for you by Monday.
|Thanks chad i found the demensions off of westmarine. Would you be able to explain how you used the bearing with the swivel. I did my seat similar to yours but not quite sure how you did the swivel ,bearing thing. Thanks|
|what did you use the bearing for? how did you place it etc. can you provide some more detail? I am interested in doing the same thing. also did you use channel iron. |
The bearing is used to strengthen the swivel. On the picture above you can see the bearing has an outer sleeve. I welded this sleeve to one side of the swivel. Then the bolt goes through the bearing and connects both sides of the swivel together, making the entire assembly stronger. I did use 2 inch channel on part of it and also 3/16 strap on the rest.
|thanks im gonna do my mc xstar seat this comming weekend.|
are you selling these unpainted for any boat?
|I have a couple orders going out painted on Centurions. It should work on other boats that have a similiar fiberglass seat base platform like the picture above. I will just have to rely on the boat owner for his measurements on the bolt centers. Email me for more info or a price. |
|hey chad can you tell me a little more about the bearing placement so i wont have play in the seat. im going to get the same swivel at a west marine in houston. and use a sealed bearing from an old bicycle hub. thanks. steven. ie where you welded it to the swivel then how you mounted it etc. |