|I just pulled home my new purchase. 97 Malibu Response. I was wondering how you guys with Teak platforms refinish them. Are there any secrects. Any suggestions would be appreciated.|
|A quick search will tell you more than you ever wanted to know |
|I don't know, some guy used a power sander to sand his down and then sealed it with lacquer or something so it was all shiny, but that defeats the purpose of teak wood (don't do that). Go to any boating store or look online for three step teak maintenance deals. One will be a cleaner, one a brightener, and the last is teak oil. If you have QR platform mounts take the platform off the boat, teak oil will stain fiberglass. |
|There are many different options. I myself having tried many different things would first try scrubing it. Then teak it. On my boat. I don't get behind on the teaking. I teak my platform probably twice a month. If you don't let them get dried out, you are fine. |
Like Tom said, don't put any sealer or lacquer on it, and don't sand it. First off, the platform is really slick when you are done. And on my last boat I fell into that trap of sanding everytime and my platform was getting thin.
|When I bought my boat, The local truck bedliner shop coated mine with truck bedliner. I've been really pleased with it - no maintenance and lifetime guarantee |
|Oil the teak after every use. Squirt a little oil on a waxing pad and lightly rub it onto the wood. Takes 2 minutes, and you won't have to worry about sanding/cleaning.|
|A tip from a buddy of mine has got me teaking every time I put the boat away. 2 min. No cleaning necessary unless I leave it outside for any period of time. I keep a small cheapo paint brush in a plastic baggy behind the capt chair along with the teak oil. Don't laquer. Ruins the purpose of teak and it scratches and looks like hell after 2-3 seasons. It's kinda like dancing around on a wakeboard on your coffee table to me. Just my opinion though.|
|Any of you guys worry about performance of your equipment do to the teaking? Most promo ski boat owners don't teak the deck during the season as the oil gets on the base of the ski, causing a slicker surface, just wonder the thoughts in the wakeboard community.|
|Forgot to mention, it only cost me $100. Seems easier than worrying about the wood. I'd appreciate hearing about the downside, if anyone knows of one. All of the teak I've seen begins to look old and worn pretty soon. My truckliner surface has slightly less traction, but I've never slipped and fallen in because of it, even when struggling to get my board on. |
(Message edited by talltigeguy on February 09, 2004)
|Nick, that's why I made a hatrack of the slalom, and picked up the wakeboard... No worries man! |
|I'm not there yet Jeff |
|I had mine Rhino lined i like it alot, gives grip, it'll never rot and goes good with the boat|
|I usually choose to take the time consuming route....sand it down every spring and then refinish it with teak oil. If you sand it down properly and remove any old finish, there shouldn't be any problems of oil getting on your boards or skis. On bare wood, teak oil is acually absorbed, so there's no oil 'on' the platform - it's 'in' it.|
|Sanding it has the same effect as scrubbing it with teak cleaner really well, but every time you sand it you get into the less naturally sealed part of the wood itself, and eventually you'll have warping and a rotting platform |
|I sanded mine down with 180 grit sandpaper because it had such bad weather damage. Then used the cleaner and scrubed it with a soft bristle brush. After it dryed i used the teak oil and wiped it on with a staining pad... It looks 100% better good as new.... I will post pics later....|
|i sanded mine last year but still had marks and some oil. should i clean then sand or vice versa? which cleaner should i use.|
|sand it first to get rid of any old oil or finish. My platform is about 10 years old (on a '93 MC 190) and after sanding and re-oiling it looks good as new every spring.|
|Interested in the Rhino bedliner for the platform. That sounds great. Does it come in anything other than black? Thanks.|
|I'll tell you what I did on my 1997 sunsetter platform. It's probably the same as yours. |
I first bought one of those teak restoration kits with two kinds of soap and a brillow pad.
I used the kit. It didn't work so great in my opinion, but it did loosen up the gray matter.
Next I hit it with my power washer. You want to be a little careful because if you get too close with the power washer it will start to cause the wood to splinter. Apply just enough pressure to get the gray stuff off and leave the natural wood surface.
As the last prep step I used a light sandpaper (can't remember the grit but 150 should do nicely) to take off any rough edges and give a very minor smoothing to the whole thing.
Rinse. Let Dry.
Then I used Valspar teak oil and a brush and applied several coats over several days to let the oil penetrate the wood as best it can.
|At the end of last season I used TeakGuard. It is supposed to be a once a year treatment. I can't say how it holds up in the water under the summer sun, but the platform still looks good for now. |
I found info on it over at malibuboatowners.com.
|Anyone have some pics of their platforms with the rhino liner on it.|
|Hey Bobby, Is that the Project I sold you? Your name looked familar. How do you like it? |
|Yep...It got a lot of use at powell last summer. What a great board..thanks for the deal. |
Compared to an older belmont that I sometimes ride I like the project better. This year I got a 142 TFD from ebay, I can't wait to try it out. I am looking forward to the softer landings.
|my opinion, but 80 grit opens and cleans the pores in the wood for the 'oil' to soak in. finer grits just inbed the dirt into the grain. don't go ape on sanding.|
|I also had the Rhino Liner sprayed on my teak platform. Works out great! It maintains good traction when wet and looks great with the black accents on my x-star. |
|www.proflighttowers.com has a coating. go to thier tower accessories and then to the bottom left under "swim step coating" |
|Take a look at Sikkens Cetol Marine. It is easier to use than varnish and lasts longer than teak oil.|
|doesn't the rhino liner tear up your boards?|
Here is my Teakwood platform. I sanded mine lightly with 100 grit sandpaper and then applied a Natural Deck stain from Williams and it looks like this the entire season... At the end of the season I do it again. Once a year compared to teak oiling your platform after every use. Plus the oil doesn't get on your equiptment.
|Brad Beach, |
Nice looking! What was the stain specifically for teak and were did you buy it at? Did you have to use a teak cleaner as well? I would like to give that a shot. Thanks in advance.
(Message edited by Pierce Bronkite on February 16, 2004)
|Pierce I just checked to make sure what I said was correct and actually I used an Olympic Maximum Deck Stain and the color was called Natural. The stain was actually for Decks but I've used it for 2 seasons now and it still looks like this pic above. I didn't use any teak cleaner, but then again the teak platform had been well taken care of so it wasn't corroded. Just sand it down and I would suggest 2 coats of Olympic stain! A friend of mine used the green Olympic stain because his Nauti is green! It looks pretty sweet! Anyway it protects wells and looks great. Let me know how it goes.|
|I used to oil mine after every use. Last year I used TeakGaurd and have not touched it since. They say it is not a stain but it puts a protective coating on the teak. It looks great! Like it always has a freash coat of oil without the slickness of teak oil. |
|Ok thanks a lot! Did you buy that at Home Depot or Lowes?|
|I think you can buy it at The Depot!|
|Any other comments on the Rhino for the platform? My boat is in the water May-Oct, and no matter how sweet it looks going in, after being in the water a few weeks, it looks like sh%t|
|I ordered some teakguard and will give it a try. Thanks for the advice.|