|Okay, for those of you out there using these, how do you get them to work on a 12v system? I've read many of the threads out there on this, & the closest I've come to finding how to wire them is "running them in parallel with the aerator pump". I've got 2 red wire leads coming off of the valve - here's a link to the valve: |
I have not been able to make this valve work as of yet. Any advice or help you ballast experts out there can provide would be much appreciated.
|I was going to use one of these valves on my ballast system but found them too restrictive. But while messing around tring to see what would work, I found just hooking one wire to ground and the other to +12v and the valve would work perfectly. Try it out. When you apply the voltage you can hear the solenoid open.|
Did you measure or estimate the actual loss?
|No, I have separate Rule 1100's for filling and draining and found the Rule would barely provide enough pressure to open the valve. I would estimate it passed about 1/4 the water vs. just straight thru. So I now use a common manifold with manual 3/4 ball valves. Maybe other pumps would do better.|
|Thanks everyone for the replies. I was going to use a Wally-world 750 special along with the valve for filling & then a BW 8512 for empty, but can see already multiple problems with the filling end. I'm going to order another Simer tomorrow & just be done with it.|
|DOn't forget some big wire for those Simers!!! |
Most people use 10 awg or 8 awg.
Thanks for the link. Yeah, I was plannning on 8 awg, just because I will have runs of about 15 feet by the time I get all of it hidden. When using relays, do you recommend leaving the in-line fuse that comes with the pump or replacing it with something else? Also, as I understand it, I can run smaller wire to the switch from the relays & I can't remember what size most guys are using for that. Any ideas?
(Message edited by MB Girl on September 10, 2003)
|The Simer will be happy with either 10 or 8 should be fine for 15' runs(30' round trip) |
I left the inline fuse. It's a 30 amp so It'll only blow in the worst circumstances! I connected my Simer to a 25 amp in the fuse panel. I ended up upgrading the lines between my battery and the fuse panel.
I don't know exactly, but I'd think a relay would be 1 amp or less so 18 awg should be fine.
A typical sprinkler valve works off of 24 volts AC, the key word here being AC, not DC. I would expect that a DC voltage would work OK for an application like this, as it is a simple solenoid and DC can make the magnetic field as well as AC.
At half the voltage the valve might be a little tempermental, meaning some valve might work and some might not, and a given valve may work sometimes and not others. I wouldn't be too surprised if temperature was a major factor.
The "parallel with the aerator pump" connection sounds right, the valve would open whenever the pump was running.
As Steve mentioned, I would expect the valve to severely cut your flow rate, and may not even operate unless your pump develops significant pressure. The solenoid does not actually open the valve, the solenoid opens a small needle valve which allows water pressure to operate on a diaphragm, which in turn opens the main valve. This requires some amount of pressure drop across the valve. Losing one PSI off your 75 PSI water main is not a big deal. Losing 1 PSI off your aerator pump will cut the volume of water dramatically.
|They actuate just fine off 12vdc, and Wally world (Attwood) pumps will push water through them, but they are VERY restrictive. I got rid of all of mine and replumbed with 1 1/8 bilge line. Mucho faster, maybe I'll add one of those manually actuated remote valves like on Nautiques someday. Right now its ball valves. I still want to know why nobody has tried vacuum operated heater valves, they are cheap. I'm too busy these days with work. |