|I have an isolator between my engine battery and stereo battery, and the stereo battery has a slow drain. I even have a breaker between the 2nd batt. and the amps, so how can I track down where or what is sucking power from my new Blue Top? If I charged it and left all connections off, it will stay charged. |
Thanks for any ideas/help...
|Hook a test light between your battery cable and battery adn start pulling fuses. See which one makes the ligh tgo out. |
|How slow is the drain? Are we talking about the battery going dead in a month, a week, or a day? |
The first thing I would check is to make sure that the amps are being shut down with the stereo. There is usually a connection to the amp that powers them up, a "power on" connection. This input connects the stereo: some decks know you will be connecting amps and lable the output as such, other decks lable the output as "power antenna". Either case, this is an output of the deck that has 12 volts on it whenever the deck is ON.
If you didn't wire this properly, the amps could be ON all the time. With no signal from the deck, they wouldn't draw a lot of power, but I wouldn't be surprised if they drained the battery in a day or two.
|For what it’s worth, I was recently experiencing a similar problem except it was my main boat battery that was draining down in between trips to the river. At the time I was using an Optima Red top for the boat and a blue top for the stereo with a stinger isolator. I replaced the red top with another blue top (so now 2 blue tops) and I replaced the isolator with a Perko battery selector switch. I still have the amps wired to one battery, but now when running, I keep the switch on “ALL”, If we sit and chill for a long time I put it on “2” and when the boat is stored I turn it “OFF”. It does take some effort over the isolator, but two long weekends and 30 plus hours later, no problems at all. And it actually only takes 2 seconds to switch it. |
|Rod- The drain is over about a week or less. I know the amps are turning off and only work with the key turned to 'Accessory' or 'On'. I cant find any obvious (lights, leds, fans, pumps, etc.) points of probable cause. |
Jay- I am beginning to wonder about the isolator, because now my engine battery is dead, which only powers the boat (motor, gauges, factory installed devices) and NEVER had any problems before. The only thing bizarre is that I've had the isolator in all summer and part of last...not counting winter as they were disconnected.
Would/could an isolator go out like that? That POS was like $90 if i remember correctly!
So what size Perko? I see types with numerous points on the dials...what are all of them for? Any help on model #'s would be great. I would rather get a good 'one time purchase' model like I thought the high dollar isolator was.
|Well, when I was having problems my dealer kept blaming the isolator. I just figured he wasn't a big fan of them. Basically, in a nutshell, he felt that the isolators where not designed for a marine environment. If the internal contacts were to corrode it could possibly cause a drain. Anyway, go to perko.com and look under battery switches for # 8503. That is the one I got, it was only like $ 25.00. Like I said, two long weekends, and 30 plus hours after installing it, no problems and all I have to do is open a hatch and turn a switch, no big deal. It just has become part of the loading/unloading process.|