|I don't know much about stereos at all and I really want to get a good quality install on my boat. Is this an option or should I just wait until I know enough or can find help so I can do the install?|
|Check around. The high end shop around here does awesome work no matter what it's in. |
|By Bob (bob) on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 12:44 am:
|just remind them not to drill through the floor or sides of your boat as screws sticking out the sides decrease resale value |
|Yep. That's where I got my car alarm installed into the boat.|
Listen to other peoples BOAT systems first, and decide what you like. Figure out how much sound you want, and where you want it. Most car stereo shops do not understand how much more power it takes for a boat to sound good vs. an enclosed car. I went through a huge trial and error process trying to make my wife happy with our boat's sound system. I ended up with four amps, 2000+ watts, three 12" subs, six speakers on the tower, 15 speakers total. One of the best things I did, was to replace the CD player with a unit that has a "read ahead memory". Since that change, my system has never skipped.
I then had to do all the electrical work to power it properly.
In hind sight, I could have saved a ton of money and effort if I had a decent plan at the start of my project.
Best of luck, Geoff
|ironic, today my stereo stopped working..we were playing some music and than turned the boat off and when we turned it back on it wasn't playing..the headunit is working so i checked the fuses on the amp and they were fine....what do I check now?|
A drop of water on a circuit board can cause things to stop working. Watch for fogging in your head unit's display or pull the amp. Sometimes letting it sit for a few days dries things out and they start working again.
One major difference with boat stereos is they have no closed cabin to reverberate the sound. Any test listening in sound booths, cars, or showrooms is of very little value. The one exception may be a convertible going down the freeway. It takes lots more to get a boat rocking than a car. Go with quality speakers and lots of power. I like Infinity speakers for mid-highs. Blaupunkt makes a nice line of amps that run cooler and use less electrcity which is important unless you plan to upgrade your battery charging system. Bass is difficult and expensive to do in boats but anything can be done with $1000 or more. There are lots of systems explained on this website. Crutchfield, ebay, and partsexpress.com are good sources for equipment if you decide to do it yourself.
My boat came with a 6" bazooka under the bow with a 50 watt el-cheapo amp. It was a complete waste, it did nothing to improve the sound, you couldn't even hear it above an idle. A minimum of two 8" woofers with 100-200 watts is the least you should consider. Two or more 10" woofers will start to get things rocking. I like to stay with 8 or 10" woofers because they have more good punch in the 80-150hz range. 12" inch woofers are great but mounting starts to get very challenging.
|By Bob (bob) on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 8:14 pm:
|Elliot listen to what Geoff said, i have three amps, 1450 watts (using 1250 watts of it), 2- 10" subs, total 8 speakers and want to swap out the 600 driving the subs and put a 1000 watt one in?? More is better in an open air boat. |