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WakeWorld Discussion Board » >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive » Archive through July 28, 2009 » Starter issue? « Previous Next »
By Kenny (ghostrider_2) on Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 7:40 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
ok had my batteries checked, good.
checked postive and neg cable for corrosion and tightness, good.
my boat stats but not on the first key turn. It just goes "CLICK", no whinning or anything else. after a few tries is will fire right up. Thinking I should take it off and to Auto zone to bench test it. If it is bad can/should I just rebuild it. Is it not to difficult to rebuild? How much does these Marine Starters go for?

Sanger V215..

By Kenny (ghostrider_2) on Friday, July 03, 2009 - 6:42 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
By Brandon (yubasanger) on Saturday, July 04, 2009 - 12:59 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Could just be a solenoid. You can check it in the boat if you have a volt meter. Test the solenoid terminals on the back test for 12v in from battery test the thin trigger wire for key switch then test power out to starter motor when someone turns the key. If these all check out than you have a bad starter motor. Mercury part# 50-863007A1 $190, Sierra 18-6275 $150, both new. Just verify your serial # to these part numbers should be right if your motor was made 2004 or 2005.
By Michael Hunter (mhunter) on Saturday, July 04, 2009 - 6:43 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
More than likely you have bad brushes. Carefully remove the two long bolts on the back of the starter remove the rear plate only look at the brushes or Autozone bench test. Note DO NOT BUY A STARTER FROM AUTO must be a marine starter.
By Dorian lambert (lilsumo) on Saturday, July 04, 2009 - 8:55 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Sounds like solenoid or your brushes are going bad.
If you have a good shop for rebuilding them, let them test it and if its bad, rebuild it. Its usually a lot cheaper and you will get a lot better quality piece.

By Nacho (denverd1) on Monday, July 06, 2009 - 4:30 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
could be either solenoid or starter. rebuild if starter.
By A-dub (behindtheboat) on Monday, July 06, 2009 - 6:49 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
I buy starters at Auto Zone all the time.

For my particular starter, you put the automotive and marine next to each other, and the marine is painted, which doubles the price

By Kenny (ghostrider_2) on Monday, July 06, 2009 - 9:35 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Since I can't seem to get my hands on the manual for this engine, does anyone know where the solenoid is?
By Brett Yates (polarbill) on Monday, July 06, 2009 - 9:48 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Kenny, I just PM'd you but the actual starter solenoid is connected to the starter. It is the small cylinder connected to the starter through the Drive end housing. There is also a starter mag switch somewhere between the ignition circuit or alternator and the starter. I sent you a link to what that looks like.
By Kenny (ghostrider_2) on Monday, July 06, 2009 - 10:14 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
ok so I can use my volt meter on the solenoid to test it first. Brett thank you for the picture and info. I see 4 prongs on it, 1 set of big ones and a smaller set, which ones should have the 12volts when I turn the key?
By phil white (philwsailz) on Monday, July 06, 2009 - 11:54 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Sorry guys, I have to jump in here. It is a bit of a thread hijack, so forgive me. But, as a member of the ABYC and the NMMA, I have to make this important safety post.


While an automotive starter is exactly the same physical dimension as its marine counterpart for a similar motor; bolts up the same, etc. there is a key difference in the marine starter.

A proper marine starter will have extra features built in to make is comply with SAE J1171 ignition protection specifications. Specifically, the sparking that is caused by the brushes is completely hermetically contained so that no flammable air/fuel mixture can be ignited, or sufficient screening and heat sinking is in place so that any flammable air/fuel mixture that ignites inside the starter cannot radiate its heat to the rest of the flammable air/fuel mixture outside of the starter.

The object of making sure that ignition sources such as starters, alternators, fuses, breakers are ignition protected is to prevent accidents like the one here:

Using marine rated components is critical to the safety of you, your boat, your family, and anyone else who is with you or near you. When you install automotive components in your boat, you put everybody at risk. If you are buying a new starter for your boat, make sure you buy the one that is rated SAE J1171 for ignition protection. Your boat, your family, your friends will never know the difference if you do it the right way, but to think of losing any of them over saving a few bucks at the auto parts counter seems not worth it to me. If you are having a starter or alternator rebuilt, make sure your rebuilder knows it is for a marine application, and make sure you are redundant in telling him that you want all of the safety parts re-installed upon completion. If he answers back that marine parts are just expensive car parts, go to another rebuilder... It is your boat, your life, your friends and family you are putting at risk when you go trying to save a few bucks using car parts in your boat...

Sorry, A-dub, but the price difference is not due to paint.


(Message edited by philwsailz on July 06, 2009)

By A-dub (behindtheboat) on Monday, July 06, 2009 - 12:13 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Not going to argue with that.

I've heard things both ways, and honestly I can't buy a marine starter in my area, so had to go automotive. I'll start stocking up on them then.

By Kenny (ghostrider_2) on Monday, July 06, 2009 - 12:20 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Just used the volt meter on both slave and starter mounted solenoid. Both showed 12V without touching the keys. Next step pull the starter?

PS yes, all parts will be replaced with Marine parts.


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