Best way to waterproof MDF sub box?? Log Out | Topics | Search | Register | Edit Profile | User List
Last Day | Last Week | Tree View | Moderators | Help/Instructions
WakeWorld Discussion Board » >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive » Archive through March 18, 2009 » Best way to waterproof MDF sub box?? « Previous Next »
By FJK (ship_of_fools) on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 3:43 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I have done some searches on this and see that Resin, painting and truck bed liners are all popular choices.

I have never worked with resin and not sure what to expect. How fast does it set up? Any application tips?

I want this to be sealed really well so I plan on doing multiple steps. But not sure what order is best.

I bought a bottle of resin and some Rust-oleum marine primer for wood and fiberglass. Should I prime it first or use the resin first? If I were to do the bedliner what step should it be?

Do I do the inside AND outside of the box (why the inside?)

I plan on carpeting it as well and it is going in a well covered spot, but I would like it as waterproof as I can get it.

Thanks

 
By Sparky Jay (wake_upppp) on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 7:55 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I prefer resin out of the choices listed. Inside and out is what I would do. It just makes for a durable, sealed, tough sub box. You don't need any primer/sealer. Two or three coats should do. How fast it sets up depends on ambient air temp and how much hardener you use in each batch. Don't over harden to compensate for cool temps. Wait for a warmer day. You have about fifteen to twenty minutes work time, and always wear a resperator when mixing, applying or sanding.
 
By Aaron Ware (99_slaunch) on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 8:03 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Sparky is dead on. A pair of latex gloves go a long way. Make sure the work area is well ventilated.
 
By FJK (ship_of_fools) on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 8:47 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
So, what consistency is the resin? Is it like water? Do I apply it with a brush?

I am not sure if I can get the whole outside and inside of the box done in 15 minutes unless I am just slopping this stuff on.

Should I sand the MDF first to roughen it up a little or is it better to apply it on smooth boards?

If I put some caulk or liquid nails on the seams from the inside do I do this before or after the resin? What works best for this, something like liquid nails or PL200?

I have the box temporarily screwed together to see how it fits and it looks good.

I was thinking I would take it back apart so I could prime all the edges, apply the glue and put it back together and then apply the resin...But you are saying no need for the primer??

The sub (Wetsounds XS 12 ) ought to be here Monday and I can't wait to hear it.

 
By all eyez on me (ponte_06_x2) on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 9:16 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/3183/675739.html?1236313312
 
By FJK (ship_of_fools) on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 9:28 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
That stuff looks like it work really well, but I already have the box done....Plus, I probably can't get it around here anyway...

I just need to make the best of what I got.

 
By Jason (jasonwm) on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 5:56 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
The consistency of the resin depends on what company made it, how much MEKP is mixed in (which depends on the temperature and humidity) as well as other factors.

You don't have to coat the entire box with one batch though, just mix a small enough batch that you can apply it all before it kicks. If you need more, mix another batch and pick up where you left off. There's no reason to sand the box before applying the resin, just make sure it's clean and go for it. For this job, you can probably get away with some cheap Bondo or Elmers brand resin and hardner from Home Depot, but if you want to make it easy on yourself and envision doing more of these projects down the road pick up some B-440 from US Composites.

 
By salty87 (salty87) on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 7:07 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
if you haven't coated it yet, get some epoxy resin instead of poly. poly is fairly worthless by itself. it's brittle and will peel off in large pieces because it sticks to itself better than the wood. epoxy is better for water-proofing.
 
By nu bu (05mobiuslsv) on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 7:15 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
I'll be trying some epoxy paint on my next boxes, we'll see how it works out.
 
By FJK (ship_of_fools) on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 7:20 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
I have been looking for the epoxy resin - Menards and Home Depots only have the polyester kind. I am going to try some boat dealers this morning.

I got to hurry - Spring is here, Spring is here!! 70 degrees today and 74 tomorrow!!

 

Topics | Last Day | Last Week | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions Administration
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use
WakeSpace is owned by eWake, Inc.
Copyright © 1996 - 2009, All Rights Reserved.
WakeSpace@WakeWorld.com