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WakeWorld Discussion Board » >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive » Archive through March 18, 2009 » System - Best way to wire this? « Previous Next »
By mark (hornsfan) on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 7:03 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
All right so I'm trying to set-up a system on a limited budget. First time owning a boat and don't know how much time and money I want/will be able to invest. Here is what I have so far and what I was planning to do, and wanted some opinions.

Crunch P900.4 (yes I know this is a low end amp but this is what I have, for now)
4 x 115 @ 4-Ohms
4 x 225 @ 2-Ohms
2 x 450 @ 4-Ohms
(more detailed info here

Interior speakers:
(4) Polk db651
Electrical Overall Frequency Response 35Hz-22kHz
Nominal Impedance 4 ohms
Power Handling (continuous) 60 w
Power Handling (peak) 180 w
Efficiency 92 dB
(more detailed info here

Tower speakers:
Kicker KMT6's (based on the other thread I think most are familiar with these speakers)
Max Rec Amplifier Power (watts PEAK/RMS)* 300/150
Sensitivity (dB 1w/1m) 93
Frequency Response (Hz) 50-21k
(more detailed info here

Okay so here is how I was planning to wire this all off the 4-ch amp. Each pair of the Polk's I would wire in series from Ch1 and Ch2 of the amp (like this, so Ch1/2 would be at 2 ohms and then the KMT6 toer speakers I would wire normally into CH3/4, but I was thinking of running these in series too in bridged mode from Ch3/4.

Thoughts? At this point I'm going for loud, eventually I'll need to add a sub.

By John Bauer (jonyb) on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 7:38 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
When you wire speakers in series, the impedance goes up. You should be intending to say that you're gonna wire those in parallel.
By Gerald B. (ncboarderboy) on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 7:39 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
you sould spend on a seperate amp for the tower speakers? If so you could wire the in boats like you were going to and a sub bridged to 2 channels and the tower speakers would get better power off a seperate amp which matched it better.
By hornsfan (hornsfan) on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 8:05 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
john i meant parallel
By phil white (philwsailz) on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 8:26 am:    Edit Post Delete Post

Don't parallel the KMT6's onto half of that amp in bridge mode. I do not want to go off and write a book, (which I often do) but if you do it, each amp channel will effectively see about a 3/4-ohm load; almost a dead short. The amp will not last long...

The other funny thing:
Say you DO series wire the KMT6 speakers and connect them to a bridged amp half. You will not get any more power out of the amp than if you connect one KMT6 to each amp channel.

I have to laugh, and please nobody get offended, but I see way too many systems where someone has gone in and bridged something without understanding what it does and how it works... Bridging makes sense in some few instances, but too often I see someone trying to do some crazy bridge scheme thinking that bridging always makes more power... It usually doesn't... Almost every time, if you want more power you need a bigger amp, not some goofy wiring method that "magically" creates more power...

Wire the KMT6's up in a normal stereo way, one speaker per amp channel... that will give you the max power to those speakers.

Then your in-boat speakers... Yes, the amp is 2-ohm stable, so you will be fine wiring two speakers in parallel on the left side of the boat, and then two speakers in parallel for the right side of the boat. That will work fine!

Good luck and let us know!


By hornsfan (hornsfan) on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 8:37 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Thanks Phil.

Hooking them up this weekend, I'll let you know how they sound.

By Greg Davis (vortech347) on Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 12:30 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Do not bridge the KMT6's. They are 3ohm speakers and will show that load to the amp.

They are a good sounding budget speaker that get pretty loud too.


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