|This is one situation where no amount of maintenance could have prevented this from happening (as you could not see it happening, and was nearly undetectable with the naked eye. |
Through years of salt-water use, my oil pan developed a leak in early July 08. To keep the boat going, I used some Epoxy putty to patch it, knowing that I would have to replace the oil pan soon. This past weekend, I set out with a friend to get this task or replacing the oil pan accomplished. Here's the link to the photos. http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/7512333_nrWb8/1/485103518_Ry8UN
I have also been posting the progress on the WakeboardNJ.com Riders blog: http://wakeboardnj.com/live.htm
All in all it was not so bad getting the motor out, and we have a plan for getting it back in without to much trouble.
One of the pics reveals the putty and a hole through the oil pan where you can see thru. When we chiseled away the epoxy putty that i used for the repair back in July to drain the oil, it cracked the pan the rest of the way. The spot welds that hold the threads into the oil pan for the drain plug, are most likely the culprit for the initial rusting problem. The OEM oil pan is only coated with paint, and a weak coat at that. And the fact that the original oil pan was not epoxy coated either may have contributed to it as well. The new oil pan from Skidim is coated with epoxy to resist the elements in a much better fashion. For a car this is ok but for a boat, not so much! We also coated the drain plug in marine sealant so no water intrusion can get to any metal parts under the pan.
I am also taking the opportunity to repaint the motor mounts, and replace the motor mount hardware. Mainly the Trunnion studs, washers, nuts and rubber isolaters(they are 8 years old). I am having the shaft checked and will be adding the OJ drippless packing (the PSS system sucked) and will be reworking my ballast tubing and pumps. I'll be sanding down and painting a lot of other items that are easy to get to as well.
I'll continue to update the pics as we progress in the next few weeks.
(Message edited by wakescene on March 04, 2009)
|Thats a big hole! Looks like everything went smoothly.|
|It seems like it would be even more important in a car or truck, especially one driving around on wet, salt covered roads during the winter!|
|By Jos (jtnz) on Thursday, March 05, 2009 - 4:22 pm:
|Was that a bigger than normal lift, or did you drop the trailer at all? I'm getting ready to pull the motor out of our boat (once I get a free weekend) just wondering if you had any trouble raising the motor high enough to get it out, or any tricks you might wanna share.|
|More pics of the GTO??|
In the boat, the little saltwater that was in the bilge over the years is what did the damage. I am taking BIG preparations to fix many problems the MC designers never too into consideration in 2001 models for salt-water. But for several hundred dollars and many hours of work, I will get another 7 years out of the boat with even less work!
YES, it was a 6K motor lift. It's got a HUGE lift range. The top of the gunwale we had to clear is 52" off the ground. We were able to get the bottom of the motor to clear the boat by about 1 ft, we had a little more to go if we needed it. IF you can separate the tranny first, it may help. This was a major front weight adder to the lift. We removed the bolts that attached the motor and tranny to the boat, literally pulled it all at one time. Then we separated the motor and tranny on the ground and lifted the motor to a motor-mount to do the work. All this in about 3 hours to the current state in the pictures.
There were 4 GTO's in the garage with us, 3 you can't see in the pics. But the yellow one you can see has the following specs:
65 gto convertible, 455, 605 hp, 765 lb ft torque, richmond 6 speed, 12 bolt.
|How are you planning to get the oil out of the bottom of your boat? I'm sure its all over everything by now. |
I had a leak that took me a while to find, last year. now I have quite the mess to clean up. Any suggestions?
|Super Clean in the purple bottle from Wal-Mart. Stuff works great.|
|Right... but I have whiteish/grey nastyness all over everything below the floor|
|What is the whiteish/grey stuff? Mine had an oil leak. The fist cleaning was with liquid hand/dish soap. Then I used the Super Clean for a final and then sprayed some WD-40 on the v-drive,trans and motor.|
|Thats what oil looks like when is mixes with water, tnen coats everything below the floor.|
|Mine was not that bad. It still looked more like oil than whiteish/grey stuff.|
|Get a cleaner thats not flammable: throw it in the bilge with a little water and go to the lake. Rinse it out when you get done.|
|Thanks guys, I'll try the going to the lake trick when the 18" of ice melts. Should be any day now |
I had cleaned the bilge really well in the fall before I winterized everything. But with the motor and tranny out, I did a deep clean with Castrol Super Clean. I sprayed the entire bilge and rear area down, left it for about 15min and then rinsed it out, repeated. I am going to go over everything again and make sure all is squeaky clean before we install the motor and tranny. The motor is going to get a good cleaning as well.
I finally got all the parts, and should be getting to the work in a week or so.