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WakeWorld Discussion Board » >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive » Archive through February 10, 2003 » Calling all mechanics « Previous Next »
By Pat Borowski (bambamski) on Thursday, January 16, 2003 - 8:44 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Sorry this isn't a boat question. I just replaced my fuel pump in my 89 mustang. The pump is in the tank so it was kind of a pain. Any ways I got everything put back and the car starts great, however when I give it more gas than when it's idleing it starts to die. Kind of sounds like it's gulping and backfireing. Anyone have any ideas? There's a bleader valve next to the engine and when I press it gas flies out so there is pressure in the line. I also replaced the distributor cap and rotor. Any suggestions??


By Peter Chandler (peter_c) on Thursday, January 16, 2003 - 11:11 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Why did you replace the fuel pump? What is the fuel pressure now? What happens if you disconnect the fuel pressure regulator? At idle is the motor hitting on all the cylinders or is it misfiring? Is the check engine light on? If so what codes is it throwing? What brand of parts did you use?

Now for what little advice I can give you at this time. First off always use factory parts, either from the dealer or from a parts store that sells OEM. If the car ran well before then most likely it is something that you did. Start by rechecking the firing order. You could always reinstall the original cap and rotor too. There are so many things that could cause your problem. Start the car and listen for a vacuum leak. If the MAP sensor is not working it will do all kinds of things but a code will be set also. Unplug the EGR valve and see what happens. The MASS can cause the exact problem you just described. Try your best not to let the motor backfire through the intake system. Remove a spark plug and see if it is rich or lean. Black means rich while a lean motor will produce a lighter colored plug center. You can also inject propane or Mapp gas into the engine with it running to see if the performance improves. Be carefull of this though as a backfire through the intake could ignite it in your hand BLAM!!! Ford's are known for having module problems but most likely this is not the case. They can also strip out the cam gear and jump a tooth. I could list a ton of could be's..........Answer my questions and I will see what I can do to help you.

By Pat Borowski (bambamski) on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 6:56 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Peter the pump wasn't working when it got too cold outside. When I turned the ignition on you didn't hear the pump firing up. When it warmed up however the pump would start up and the car would run fine.

I don't have a fuel pressure gauge so I don't know what the pressure is. When the car is idleing it's running smooth and it appears to be fireing in all cylinders. Check engine light is not on. Parts were from an Auto value parts strore, the brand is a Carter Federal-Mogul Fuel Pump. Could be that the engine just isn't getting enough gas?

By LSVLance (lsvlance) on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 7:22 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Fuel filter plugged?
By Peter Chandler (peter_c) on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 7:34 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Replace the fuel pump relay if you have not already done so as it is a wear item and take lsvlance's advice and replace the fuel filter also if you have not already done so. Some of those FOrds use a special tool to remove the fuel filter, but they can be purchased for around eight dollars. Then try a few of the things I stated above including checking timing (don't forget the check connnector plug) and let us know what you find. Good luck!
By Pat Borowski (bambamski) on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 7:40 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Replaced the filter as well. I'll check the other things today thanks.
By trace (trace) on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 9:32 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
sounds to me like something may be wrong with the timing advance. if you have a timing light, hook it up & make sure the timing is changing when you rev the engine.
By vortech347 (vortech347) on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 10:26 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Have you checked your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) to make sure it is working properly? Take a voltage meter and hook the + to the green wire and the - to the black wire on the TPS. With the ignition on/engine off it should read between .85-.98 volts at closed throttle and between 4.5-5 volts at wide open throttle. If it is working properly then check timing. Timing on a stock 5.0 should be 10 degrees BTDC with the jumper plug removed and idle set to 750rpm.

You can buy a small fuel pressure guage and install it in the schrader valve to confirm if your fuel pressure is correct. Stock should be 38psi at idle and 42psi with the vaccuum line removed from the regulator.

If none of these helps you will want to look at your ignition coil next. It's a good idea to let someone knowledgeable diagnose your problem or you could wind up spending more money throwing parts at it trying to find the problem.

Good luck.

By Pat Borowski (bambamski) on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 4:44 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Thanks for the input. I took the pump out again and reinstalled it. I cut the hose by a 1/4 inch that attaches to the pump so the sock isn't mashed on the bottom of the tank. It didn't sound like it was getting enough gas and the pump was working overtime . It seemed to solve the problem. Who really knows what the heck was wrong, it was so much fun I'm glad I got to take the tank out again.

Thanks again

By Peter Chandler (peter_c) on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 7:14 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Welcome to the world of auto mechanics. Frustrating isn't it? At least it was a relatively simple fix that did not cost any more money, nor alot of time. Oh the stories I could tell........
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