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WakeWorld Discussion Board » >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive » Archive through February 10, 2003 » What would be your ideal sound system « Previous Next »
By Dominic Tatro (domtatro) on Tuesday, January 07, 2003 - 9:15 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Just Curious-
Id like to here what everyones ideal set up would be. Sub, Lights, Tower Speakers, Amps. I wanna know. Also in what kind of boat.

 
By Doug Hanson (xtigeman) on Tuesday, January 07, 2003 - 9:40 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
McIntosh 300 X 2 (pushing 2 sets of B-60 cannisters with (2) CDT mids, (2) Dynaudio mids, and 4 MB Q 25 tweets)

McIntosh 110 X 2 & 55 X 4 (boat speakers: (1) pair of Focal Kevlar 6.5 components, (2) pair MB Quart Qs 6.5s with 6 MB QM 25 tweets for all)

Orion 900 Extreme (1) 12w7

Orion 900 Extreme (1) IDMAX 12

PPI 4125 (front channels running (1) Pair of B-50 cannisters with (2) CDT high def 5.25s and (2) MB QM 25 tweets, Rear channel running (1) Eclipse Titanium 12)

Clarion 925 headunit
(2) Clarion pre-amp master volume controls with line conditioners and line driver
(2) Audiobahn line drivers with digital readouts hooked up only for voltage monitoring and phase control
Custom digital read outs for voltage, amps, and temp for each amp with an automatic fan system that doesn't work that well since I made it.
(1) IR repeater for remote
0 guage and 4 guage wiring
a butt load of high dollar RCAs twisted, balanced shielded, platnium and etc.
10 to 12 guage speaker wire with twisted and balanced moster cable going to towers and twisted going to in boat speakers. 10 guage for subs.
(2) Optima yellow tops
(3) neon lights and neon cord outlining one dummy amp wall

Other installed but not using or hooked up (2) caps, (1) Pheonix Gold line driver

Lights
5 light Boss bar with two xenons added.

Boat
2001 X-Star

 
By matt moss (mossy44) on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 12:20 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
doug,

you're alive!!! where ya been lately? give me a shout. i still owe you a check anyway.

 
By daniel harmon (ratm3706) on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 1:10 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
hey doug, why did you decide to go with mcintosh instead of the other high dollar brands, ie sinfoni and the rest? Just wondering. Also, why did you split up the sub brands, any special purpose or meaning. Then I have one question for you. If someone is putting a sub in a boat they want to not only hear it in the boat but also while riding, wouldn't it be wise to use pa type applications using a longer throw sub with an enclosure meant to project instead of just a sub and box designed to put sound out at minimum distances? I realize that space issues would probably be factored in but it seems if you could fit some type or long throw 10 or 12 on a tower with a folded horn or bandpass or isobaric chamber that it would be possible for the rider to also hear. Maybe I am way off but I just wanted to ask.
Daniel

(Message edited by ratm3706 on January 08, 2003)

 
By wakeman (skihardkore) on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 1:26 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I dont know all the models and names and stuff, but I still know what i want.

8 mids: 2 in the bow, 6 in the cockpit
4 tweeters
2 10 inch JL subs
TOwer: 4 mids
2 HID lights and 2 halogen's on the top. 2 halogens mounted on each side of the tower.
_
--> / \<--

Amps: 1000watts,8channels for the 8 mids in the cockpit. 700watts for the 2 subs. 300watts for the tower speakers

All this sweetness in a Toyota V-drive

 
By Bobby Mucic (bobbymucic) on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 1:36 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Ideal to me also = practical..


Head unit with remotes on dash and transom
satellite radio
cd-changer at rear of boat with MP3 capability
4 interior speakers running off head unit.
one tri-way compatible amp,
pushing B-60's or equiv at ~60 watts rms
bridged mono to a single 10 sub at ~120 watts rms.

Not super clean, or super loud, but gets the job done easily. Easy to wire and to replace stuff. Total costs, under 2500??

not a dream system, but a system I would actually install on a future boat (I like BU vlx's)


(Message edited by bobbymucic on January 08, 2003)

 
By Jamie Schoolcraft (captfaceplant) on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 6:46 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I'm working on mine now with a pretty limited budget, but here goes:
1 orion 900 watt amp for the tower
4 audiobahn 6x9's (200watt RMS Each)
1 SoundStream D200 bridged mono
1 JL audio 10" Sub
4 stock Clarion 100 watt marine speakers(with bass blockers installed, running off of the stock head unit)
and a toggle switch to the tower amp so I can turn it off when not boarding.
I'm just hoping it will be enough to hear while boarding.
I already have the Soundstream amp, and two bose 151's on the tower, and when I was at home thought it would be plenty loud, but you can't hear it while boarding at all!!!

 
By Doug Hanson (xtigeman) on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 11:10 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Hey Matt. What's up. I am alive. Just been working my arse off and doing a lot of traveling.

RE: Why McIntosh

Its my personal favorite. I did hear a Symphoni once, but they are just not powerful enough for a boat. I also would have a Brax. I tried a Zapco, an arc, and a bunch of other mid priced (PG Titanium series, DEI, Soundstream and etc.).

McIntosh, to me, just have the clearest, cleanest, crispest sound. They are also nice for boats as they are not too big and they do not have heating issues due to the regulated power supply and the protection circuitry. They are impossible to clip which saves money on speakers when my brother or one of his friends screws with my system.

RE: Different sub brands

I was torn between the W7 and the ID MAX so I got one of each. Then when the Eclipse Titanium came out, I had to have one of those. That thing is nothing short of amazing. Incredibly accurate fast moving cone. It is also very loud. Each sub kinda of compliments each other too and compensate for the other subs occasional dips in the frequency response. If I had it to do over, I would do it exactly the same again.

RE: Different sub amps

Not intentional. Initially, I just used the Orions and two subs. The PPI used to power two sets of tower speakers, but I wanted more than 125 watts. I, therefore, went with the McIntosh 300 X 2 because it is the most stable amp I have used and I needed a two channel that could power four speakers without overhating issues and without loosing sound quality in 2ohm. McInotsh has the same .00015 thd when in 4 ohm or 2 ohm and will send 300 watts to each speakers whether 11.5 volts or 14.4 volts going to it.

I then added a third set of towers and decided to add a third sub (I really just wanted an excuse to buy th Eclipse Titanium when it came out). The PPI was left over for this duty.

RE: Hearing sub while riding

I started building a box to go on the tower that would house 4 MB QM 25 tweets, (2) 7 inch Dynaudios, and 2 6.5 CDT or maybe adire 6.5s. I was then going to put the ID Max in the center of the box aiming back. The ID MAX was chosen due to .75 cubic and it really does not need that much power to hit XMAX or full excursion. You would definitely hear that thumping while riding. I just have not finished the box.

Put an 18 up there and you would defintely hear it. I quess bandpass might work. I would say the better thing to do would be to port. You would just need a larger box than a sealed box, but ported would give you the best sq spl combination. I think an 18 free air would be audible to rider if it was coming off the tower though.

That being said. I am sure your idea would work. Compression drivers are ultra eficient and should crank. with the sub, I just prefer the sound of a seald box or ported box over a band pass.

 
By Doug Hanson (xtigeman) on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 11:13 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Hey Matt. What's up. I am alive. Just been working my arse off and doing a lot of traveling.

RE: Why McIntosh

Its my personal favorite. I did hear a Symphoni once, but they are just not powerful enough for a boat. I also would have a Brax. I tried a Zapco, an arc, and a bunch of other mid priced (PG Titanium series, DEI, Soundstream and etc.).

McIntosh, to me, just have the clearest, cleanest, crispest sound. They are also nice for boats as they are not too big and they do not have heating issues due to the regulated power supply and the protection circuitry. They are impossible to clip which saves money on speakers when my brother or one of his friends screws with my system.

RE: Different sub brands

I was torn between the W7 and the ID MAX so I got one of each. Then when the Eclipse Titanium came out, I had to have one of those. That thing is nothing short of amazing. Incredibly accurate fast moving cone. It is also very loud. Each sub kinda of compliments each other too and compensate for the other subs occasional dips in the frequency response. If I had it to do over, I would do it exactly the same again.

RE: Different sub amps

Not intentional. Initially, I just used the Orions and two subs. The PPI used to power two sets of tower speakers, but I wanted more than 125 watts. I, therefore, went with the McIntosh 300 X 2 because it is the most stable amp I have used and I needed a two channel that could power four speakers without overhating issues and without loosing sound quality in 2ohm. McInotsh has the same .00015 thd when in 4 ohm or 2 ohm and will send 300 watts to each speakers whether 11.5 volts or 14.4 volts going to it.

I then added a third set of towers and decided to add a third sub (I really just wanted an excuse to buy th Eclipse Titanium when it came out). The PPI was left over for this duty.

RE: Hearing sub while riding

I started building a box to go on the tower that would house 4 MB QM 25 tweets, (2) 7 inch Dynaudios, and 2 6.5 CDT or maybe adire 6.5s. I was then going to put the ID Max in the center of the box aiming back. The ID MAX was chosen due to .75 cubic and it really does not need that much power to hit XMAX or full excursion. You would definitely hear that thumping while riding. I just have not finished the box.

Put an 18 up there and you would defintely hear it. I quess bandpass might work. I would say the better thing to do would be to port. You would just need a larger box than a sealed box, but ported would give you the best sq spl combination. I think an 18 free air would be audible to rider if it was coming off the tower though.

That being said. I am sure your idea would work. Compression drivers are ultra eficient and should crank. with the sub, I just prefer the sound of a seald box or ported box over a band pass.

 
By Doug Hanson (xtigeman) on Wednesday, January 08, 2003 - 11:14 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Sorry about double. I got a cgi timeout message and did not realize it wne through.
 
By swass (swass) on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 5:29 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
I'll just take Jumbo Joe's.

Or, who's the dude that posted pics of his Macintosh amp that's the size of a suitcase? I'll take his setup too.

 
By Roy Finney (wkerat) on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 6:09 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
My current set-up(stilli nthe works) is this:
2 Adire Brahma 12's in custom boxes (one under the driver one in the passenger compartment)
8 MB Quart 6.5 Reference series on the tower (I may upgrade to CDT HD-630's)
4 Infinity Kappa 6.5's in the boat (May upgrade to CDT Eurosports)
Planet Audio 200 watt amp for the Infinities
Planet Audio 800 watt amp for the Quarts
(I had both these benched and they give out
there rated power at 12.8 volts so i was very happy)
Tsunami 1800x1 for the subs
2 15 neons in the passenger compartment for my big amps and wireing
2 9 neons in the sub box under the driver
2 9 inch neons placed in the boat
Tons of Stinger wire, RCA's, fuse blocks, distribution blocks, etc...
A 150 amp High Output Alternator
1 (maybe 2 soon) Exide Orbital gel cell.

 
By Doug Hanson (xtigeman) on Thursday, January 09, 2003 - 11:19 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Swass:

Is this what you are talking about. This actually an old pic and it now looks different. One Orion is on the driver's side in that pic. I now have both orions in each locker beside the engine and 2 macs and the PPI in the compartment in the picture.

I have heard Joe's system and it is sweet, but I think it would be impossible to improve on the sound I have except maybe a Brax amps for the subs, but I do not think the difference would be audible given my processing and filters. Then again, I do not think anyone would waste as much money as I have ona boat system.

system1.jpg

 
By swass (swass) on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 5:32 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
That would be the one!
 
By Mike Smith (bond) on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 7:51 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
My current set-up in our VLX:

4-mb quart 6.25 (marine) in playpen)
2-mb qaurt 6.25 (marine) in dash
2-jl audio 5.25 up front in bow
1-set of B-530's loaded with "Q" series drivers
1-set of B-50's loaded with Premiere series drivers
1-jl audio 15w3 under observer seat in custom box
2-jl audio micro 8" subs under drivers dash
1-jl audio 500/5 amp
1-jl audio 300/4 amp
1-jl audio 300/2 amp
2-optima blue tops
head unit - pioneer P-730 with remote on steering wheel

 
By eljefepequeno (eljefepequeno) on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 8:42 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Super Air 210 Boss Edition
Boss B-530's using MB-Quart RKC 116 and RSC 213 Speakers on a Belmont Tower
Boss 5-Light Bar
Boss Plexiglass w/ 12" Kicker Solo-Baric I7 Sub
Clarion Head-Unit w/ MP3 support
Six Clarion 6.5" Standard Marine Speakers 2 in the bow/ 4 in the back w/ Bass Blockers, Good enough for me.(Good Idea Jamie!)
1 Phoenix Gold Tantrum 500.2 Amp For the 530's
1 Phoenix Gold Tantrum 300.2 Amp for the sub
Some Neons for the Sub

ahh, to dream....

 
By Dan Sullivan (danno) on Sunday, January 12, 2003 - 10:28 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
How about Peter Gabriel and his band sitting in the back of the boat?

"...is it live or is it Memorex?"

 
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