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WakeWorld Discussion Board » >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive » Archive through February 10, 2003 » Why does the oil drain slow? « Previous Next »
By socalrider (socalrider) on Thursday, December 12, 2002 - 4:15 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Recently changed the oil and waited over 2 hours for it to drain. What gives?
By Nick (drmalibupws) on Thursday, December 12, 2002 - 4:28 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Was the engine oil warm?
By socalrider (socalrider) on Thursday, December 12, 2002 - 4:32 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Yeah it was warm. Took it out and rode all day, came home and flushed the engine then let it drain.
By Nick (drmalibupws) on Thursday, December 12, 2002 - 4:37 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Is there a drain hose on the pan? Sometime it will get a kink in it and it will drain slow, If not somtimes I will take an air line and blow a little pressure in the line to free any blockage.
By john (john) on Thursday, December 12, 2002 - 4:42 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
My engine has the hose installed in the drain plug of the oil pan and it also drains extremely slow, even with the engine warm, fill caps and filter removed. I just do other maintenance items, or go in the house and watch a football game while the oil drains (drips, is more appropriate).
By Bruce Thomas (sprucie) on Thursday, December 12, 2002 - 4:43 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Try attaching a drill pump to the end of your drain hose with some adapters. This will suck the oil out. If you are letting all the little drips drain then you are just anal like me. Go get lunch while the oil drains next time and you'll never know the difference.
By Nick (drmalibupws) on Thursday, December 12, 2002 - 4:48 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=59091, Try this it might be a good investment. It will pay for it self over time.
By T Rare (av8tens) on Thursday, December 12, 2002 - 9:47 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I'd read the reviews of that product before ordering.
By peter gozinya (nohalfboats) on Thursday, December 12, 2002 - 9:57 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
When asked if the oil was warm,I believe Nick meant did you start the boat and let it run for a few minutes right before you changed the oil?I assume your boat was on the trailer in your driveway,and you did start the boat in this location,right?You made it sound like you rode all day,drove home and then changed the oil.If thats the case,your oil was not hot.
By Bob (bob) on Friday, December 13, 2002 - 2:27 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
read it again peter "came home and flushed the engine then let it drain" ,nick why would someone spend 140 clams when all they need to do is something else while the oil drains by itself
By BrianS (6more) on Friday, December 13, 2002 - 8:06 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
I think most of them drain pretty slow. I usually just let it drain until it starts dripping really slow and quit. However, this time since I was winterizing the boat, I let it drain overnight. I have to admit that I had about 1 liter more oil in the morning than I normally do. Therefore I suggest letting it drain overnight to make sure everything comes out.

I normally drain the oil into 2 liter bottles. I normally have some in the 3rd bottle, but not close to being filled. This time after letting it drain overnight, the third bottle was nearly full. So that was close to 6 liters of oil that drained out.

By TY (typhoon) on Friday, December 13, 2002 - 8:10 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Do you always change your fuel seperator/filter also when you do the oil?
By Sean M (magic) on Friday, December 13, 2002 - 8:54 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
I do my fuel filter (water seperator) every 100 hours and oil every 50. When I resentaly drained the oil, I did over night with a magnetic block heater on the bottom of the oil pan. Seemed to keep the oil flowing just above the usual trickle.
By Grant Woolf (grwoolf) on Friday, December 13, 2002 - 11:54 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
I bought one of those things that looks like a bicycle pump with a tank. Just pump it 8-10 times and it will suck all the oil out through the dip stick with no mess. First time I used it, I opened up the oil pan drain afterwords to make sure it was getting all the oil. I think it was like $60 and well worth it. It make a tranny oil change on a v-drive easy also. I use it on my cars now also.
By Jeff Guilford (fogey) on Saturday, December 14, 2002 - 8:09 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
I haven't had much luck in consistently getting all the oil out by putting a hose down the dipstick tube.

I put a fitting on the end of the E-Z Drain hose and use a Tempo vacuum pump to suck it out that way. Since the E-Z drain is at the bottom of the crankcase, I know I'm getting it all.

By Clint (clint) on Saturday, December 14, 2002 - 4:51 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I bought a "Suck Up" pump and love it. Two or three minutes to empty 5.7L MasterCraft. You hook it to the drain hose. Under five minutes to take 7 quarts from my BMW through the dipstick tube. Never tried it without warming the oil. My guess is that it wouldn't work.
By steve (pimpsuphoesdown) on Sunday, December 15, 2002 - 4:46 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Because oil is thick and its in no hurry.
By Allt (allterr1) on Sunday, December 15, 2002 - 8:05 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I always thought that if you run engine first, alot of oil is still in the block, so I've always let engine sit awhile and let the oil drain back into the pan before changing. Is this wrong?
By Phil Erbox (pimpsuphoesdown) on Sunday, December 15, 2002 - 9:33 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
6 or 1/2 of a dozen
By Jeff Guilford (fogey) on Monday, December 16, 2002 - 4:17 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Warm oil flows pretty freely, so it doesn't take long for it to drain back into the crankcase.

I've never heard of a recommendation from any source to drain oil while it's cold .

By Tim (srock) on Monday, December 16, 2002 - 6:34 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
How do you know that an oil removal pump gets all the oil from the engine pan?
By Jeff Guilford (fogey) on Monday, December 16, 2002 - 8:44 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
On the boat, I'm sucking oil from the bottom of the crankcase (using the E-Z Drain hose). I don't see how it can be anything but fully drained. Plus, the dipstick shows empty.

I've tried pumping oil out through the dipstick tube on my Honda. I then checked by pulling the drain plug to make sure I got all. Sometimes I did, and sometimes I didn't. So, I don't use the pump on the car anymore. AFAIK, it may work well on other cars, however.

(Message edited by fogey on December 16, 2002)

By eric fox (fox) on Monday, December 16, 2002 - 9:18 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Some Drag Racers I've talked with change oil cold, since the particles and dirt are in the bottom of the pan. This way the dirt goes with the oil. If it's warm, you kick the crud up into the block where it may not all come out, or so the theory goes. I run my engine to temp personally and hve no problems getting all the oil out in about 30 minutes.

Eric Fox

By Jeff Guilford (fogey) on Monday, December 16, 2002 - 1:08 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Race engines may call for a different procedure. Many use non-detergent oil and change it very frequently. In this case, it may be better to drain the oil when it's cold because the contaminants will be at the bottom of the pan.

With detergent oil, however, the dirt is suspended in the oil; that's why detergent is added. The particles that are big enough to be harmful are screened out in the filter.

By Bob (bob) on Tuesday, December 17, 2002 - 1:39 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
i drain while its warm but i think the subject is getting a little too picky, im sure if you have two boats exactly the same and one guy drains cold while the other drains hot you will never see a difference (as long as they drain at the same interval)
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