|As I plan to drain my block frequently in order to protect it from the low temps this time of year....i have come up with an idea, and was wondering if anyone has implemented it. |
The two lines for the heater are attached via hose clamps. has anyone cut the hoses and added quick-disconnects to these lines to allow quick draining without repeatedly taking these hose clamps apart? Something similar to the quick drain for the manifolds, or something nicer perhaps some parker fluid lines connectors? I am thinking of doing this for less wear and tear on the hoses and a quicker water drain with less tools.
|I've also thought about using a quick disconnect or a garden-hose connection to simplify draining the block. |
Here's a problem: the arrangement has to be able to drain both sides of the block, but Inmar uses one of the block drain holes (the port side on a V-drive) for the knock sensor. I'm not sure about your installation, but a quick disconnect in the heater hose may only drain one side of the block.
I asked Indmar about putting a "T" fitting in the block drain hole on the port side and then screwing the knock sensor into the T. I planned to use the other arm of the T for a block drain hose that would be tied to the other side with a quick disconnect, similar to the arrangement for the exhause manifolds.
Inmar recommended against any configuration other than screwing the knock sensor directly into the block at the drain hole. I suspect this is overly conservative, but I haven't ignored the advice. Hence, I have to remove the knock sensor to drain the port side. I did put a petcock in the starboard block drain hole so at least I can drain it without any tools.
I sure wish Indmar would come up with a more user-friendly design. They're way behind on this. We drained a friend's sterndrive V8 in 5 minutes with no tools. Draining an Indmar required several tools and well over an hour. (Are you OEM lurkers listening?)
|I have the same problem. That wouldn't be a bad idea for quick disconnects on the heater lines. The hose clamps are a pain in the axxxx. Something like the quick release hose connection for the shower might work. |
|I have an 02 X-Star with LTR and live in Truckee CA. It can get to freezing here (at night) even in summer-Fall. I installed 2 stainless steel drains on the block. These are 90 degree knive valves that have high flow. Drains the block in a minute, and won't rust. |
Petcock valves are too slow. I put the knock sensor on a t-block as you describe above. I haven't had any issues yet. The T-block is steel (like the eng-block), not brass. I'm hoping the knock sensor can't feel the difference
As for the manifolds, there is a garden-hose style fittings where the two hoses join.
I did the same on my previous boat (98 MC). It had an LT-1 and had no problems doing the same thing. 550+ hours before trading it in this year.
|It took an hour to drain your indmar? I was able to do it in 5-10 minutes with tools. I simply like the idea of making it simpler. |
Also, regarding the knock sensor....couldn't they just put another drain plug in adjacent to the knock sensor? sure it would be another drill and tap operation and another pipe plug....but as a customer I'd be glad to pay the extra $3-5 for this.
Anyone know who makes those garden hose style connectors that are on the exhaust manifold? I'll have to take a look at them to see if they require a hose fitting tool to assemble or if they are just clamped on.
|Yep, over an hour. In order to get to the drain plugs on the engine, I had to remove side panels, and they are mounted with screws. It's a bigger hassle than it sounds like. |
Of course, the hose for the exhaust manifold was easy, but getting the "J" hose loose was a bear this time, as was the case with the water pump hoses. Just to add to the fun, it's a little cramped in there, what with the exhaust ducts and muffler and all.
Then, there was the drill of removing the back seat to get to the pipe plugs in the V-drive. And unscrewing them: puh-leese! The guy who installed them must have used the opportunity for muscle building. I really thought I was going to break the wrench before they came loose. I needed a cheater bar, which was no fun in that tight space. It took awhile.
Also, I guess I need to come clean with the time deal. It included draining the shower, which required removing another panel.
I don't think another drain plug on the side of the block is feasible. The plugs are mounted in bosses cast into the block, so the material is thicker there. The rest of the block is too thin to permit drilling and tapping a new hole, and GM probably isn't too interested in casting a special block for Indmar with two bosses.
Obviously, I've been tempted to do what Dave did, as it would be quick and obviate the need to remove the side panels. 550 hours is pretty good service; if there were a detonation problem, it would have shown up way before that much time was logged.
Of course, the best answer would be for Indmar to spend an insignificant amount of time and money to determine whether it makes any difference when the sensor is screwed into a case iron pipe fitting instead of the block.
You can get male and female garden hose connectors with barb fittings at Home Depot or Lowes. They can be attached to the hose with simple host clamps.
|Ahh...I guess add that drain time to an advantage of having a direct drive. I have the 325 monsoon and everything is really easy to get to. |
and yeah, those impact torque wrenches sure can make things tight!