|Could I get some feedback/input on this setup that I have drawn out below? I'm not even close to being an expert at any stereo setup, so I hope that I can get some audiophile's to let me know if there are any problems with the way that I have drawn out the diagram. |
Basically, I'm running off of the XMD3, PPI PAR-650 Preamp, MTX 942 Amp (2-channel for tower speakers), MTX 564 (4-channel for interior speakers), Polk MM2104DVC subwoofer, MTX 801D (Mono amp for Sub).
I would like to have the 4-channel setup in the interior, so would it be a bad idea to set up the system with the Front outputs split - so the signal ends up going to both the Tower amp and interior speaker amp?
To simplify the drawing, I didn't put in the sub or amp for it - the Preamp has a sub output so it will run directly off of that.
I plan on controlling the level of the tower speakers by way of the MTX EBC level control (basic turn knob).
All of the lines are RCA cables, with the exception of the lines going to the speakers.
So, will this work or no? I would appreciate any help.
|Just split the fronts outputs to the interior front & rears, run the rear outs to the tower amp. Do you really need fading in the boat? |
Another option is bridging the 4 channel to the tower and running the boat speakers strapped to the 2 channel amp. This will yield maximum output and correct loading to the speakers but it's a bit more complex.
(Message edited by mikeski on January 14, 2007)
|Run your RCA out from the XMD to the PAR650 using the radios pre amp output for all of your signals to all of your amps. From the PAR650, sub out to the sub amp (you would not be using the sub out from the XMD), Front out to the boat interiors amp and rear out to the tower speakers amp. Turn up the PAR650 source 1 input to the max 6 volts (located on the top of the eq). You can use source input 2 for an MP3 player/Ipod by getting an RCA stereo plugged into source 2 and an 1/8 inch stereo male plug to plug it into the headphone jacks, this also elimates using the XMD's aux input. The fade control on the PAR650 would be used to fade the towers up or off. The PAR650 would then be working as the main control for your sound. With the 6 volts ouput the PAR650 has, the sub, interior and tower speakers amp pre voltage is good and you will have full control of the sound, it will work better. |
I agree with Mikeski on using the 4 channel strapped to 2 channel mode and using that output to run all the boats interior speakers.
|I actually meant to say run the 4 channel amp to the tower and the 2 channel to the boat, but I missed a few words in my post.|
|Okay, how about this setup as a whole? Big thanks goes out to Mike who had this drawn up originally - I apologize for taking it, but it is exactly as how I plan to setup the system. |
As for the 2 channel running the interior, will there be much of a gain? I ask because the 564 (4channel) is rated at 180 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms; the 942 is rated at 175 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms. Is the 5 watts going to make that much of a difference? I'm not trying to say you're wrong or anything, I don't know much about the whole deal, but is it really worth it to set the 2 channel amp to the interior and only have L/R sound, as opposed to FL/FR/RL/RR in the boat?
I fully appreciate all the help and input!
|are you making these diagrams in Microsoft paint? |
Why do you need the ppi-par650 is it a voltage booster? most decks have sub controls built in?
|I dont think you are understanding the PPI Par 650. The three inputs are individual inputs that will only work by themselves and not together. You only need a set of rcas coming from your headunit going to the PPI. Use the Front outputs from the Headunit(the rear, and Sub outputs will not be used). Connect the front outputs off of the PPI to the 4-channel amp(boat,hull), connect the rear outputs from the PPI to the two channel amp(tower), and finally connect the Sub output from the PPI to the Sub amp. The PPI Par-650 will take the full range signal from the Headunit, and distribute the frequencies as needed to the Front, rear, and sub. Set the line level on source 1 to about 3/4. Click the HP switch on the back of the PPI to on. This will send High pass frequencies to the two and four channel amplifiers, and low pass frequencies to the sub amplifier. Most amplifiers have a switch on them to just use one set of RCAs into the 4 channel, and be able to give signal to the rear set at the same time. If yours doesnt then Y-connect the one set of RCAs into both Front and rear inputs. |
Nate- The PAR 650 is an EQ. It allows for more flexibility in tuning the system. It also has a line booster that is adjustable.
|Thanks much for the input. |
Has anyone had any success or problems using the solenoid as opposed to the hellroaring?
Try the search key button for electrical suggesions, there are too many options to start a new discussion on the topic.
I use a combiner. "Yandina C150"
|Yeah I apologize for making it seem as though I didn't search, I just wanted to throw it out there since I had your attention for a moment. I do appreciate you adding in what you use though, it's nice to see what others are using outside of the two I commented on. |
But thanks so much to everyone for all of your help and input, fully appreciate getting me somewhat into the 'know' on the stereo setup - it's all ready to go (as you all suggested it be setup).
(Message edited by sinkoumn on January 17, 2007)
|Basically finalized setup, hopefully this can be used for someone else doing a similar install (thanks again to Mike from whom I 'borrowed' his diagram to modify) :-) |
|Sinko, the XMD3 has three wired RCA's on the back. Read this carefully, I will save you some issues here. One is an RCA pre amp output (front), The second one is a sub output that can be set to be another pre amp out. It is either a sub or the (rear) pre which can be changed through the menu of the XMD3. Only downside here is that if the radio losses power, it defaults back to being a sub output and this is set at the radio. The Third RCA cable is an auxillary input (this is the red wired rca) This makes your wiring above incorrect from the XMD to the PAR650. Also, take a look at the CMRC2-BSS, I have an XMD3 and I am using a M301RC at the drivers seat and a CMRC2-BSS on the transom. The CMRC2-BSS also uses a 2 inch hole and it does have a lighted LCD though but the M301RC needs a flat spot for it to mount flush due to its oval shape. I located my CMRC2-BSS just below the rub rail on the transom so it is easy to reach when in the water. The XMD3 allows for two wired remote units. You will need a M101RXC-RET extension cable for each remote unless the remote is only 6 inches from the radios back and a Y connector (M101RYC-RET Y adaptor cable)if connecting 2 remotes. Also, you left out the power,ground and remote for the PAR650. Reread my first posting above, that set up works! Also, one last note, put that fused distribution block wiring as close to the batteries as possible so if there's any issues, it will not cause you a wire fire or worse.|
|Ahh, right on David, I think I understand what you're saying - and I think we were thinking the same thing, but my diagram makes it look different cause it was labeled wrong. I did mis-label the outputs from the XMD3 - I meant that to stand for 1 set of RCA's. |
As for the remote, I do have the extension cable and plan to put it on top of the rear - right behind the hatch next to the input for the rear light (that area is nice and flat and has the perfect amount of space to install the remote).
How about this? Thanks for all your help by the way.
|Now you look like your are in business!! One minor drawing error- remote wire missing on PAR650. I know it would have been connected. |
If you plan to use the M301RC remote while you are in the water, look at your placement for it before you drill the hole to see if it will be easily accessible. Have fun with the project and consider going to a 12 inch woofer.