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WakeWorld Discussion Board » >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive » Archive through April 21, 2006 » Boat wont start!! Please help!!! « Previous Next »
By ryan koga (kogswell21) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 2:57 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
O.K. I have a 1990 Tristar I was getting ready to start my boat for the season, but..... It wouldnt turn over...1st I heard a clicking noise from the starter, solenoid area.. SO I Took the starter and the solenoid over to get it repaired..they gave me a new solenoid and bench tested my starter..They said it was working but since I had it out already they rebuilt it for me..After I put the boat back together I tried to turn over the motor and still a no go...ALl you would hear is a click and no voltage or anything..SO I assumed it was the fuse...Reset it and the volts came back to 12 or 13..SOmething is tripping it before it gets a chance to turn the starter.Well I have had my boat cover on for the winter but I ran it like a month ago..ANy suggestions before I spend all my money on taking it to a shop..Thanks in advance..ryan
 
By Druffel (dedicatedwse) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 3:05 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
First thing to check would be your ignition switch. It's cheap to replace and they often go bad on boats.
 
By Robb Davis (boarder_x) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 3:10 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
What about the starter slave solenoid?
 
By ryan koga (kogswell21) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 3:11 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Thanks Druf I will try that tomorrow and repost..
 
By ryan koga (kogswell21) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 3:13 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
NOt sure what a slave solenoid is...Im not sure if I had that one replaced but I did replace a solenoid..It had an S and I on the 2 small posts and two copper posts ..Is that it?
 
By Druffel (dedicatedwse) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 3:28 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I assumed you had already replaced the slave solenoid, but if you haven't....it is also a likely culprit. The slave solenoid is up on the engine near the carborator. If I was standing in front of your engine I could point you to it, but don't know how to verbally describe.

It will have two posts on it like you described. Try having a buddy turn the key while you go back to the slave solenoid and use a wrench or screwdriver to bypass the solenoid (ie connect the two posts with solid metal). A solenoid is basically a switch, so all you are doing is bypassing the switch. If it turns over, you know the solenoid is the problem.

You can also try tapping on the solenoid while your buddy is trying to start it. Try this before you try the screwdriver method.

 
By ryan koga (kogswell21) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 3:37 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Duf,I will try that when I figure out why the fuse keeps trippin.....
 
By ryan koga (kogswell21) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 3:39 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I will also replace the ignition tomorrow..
 
By Robb Davis (boarder_x) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 3:39 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
The slave solenoid is part #19. Mine is mounted on top of the motor, near the carb.
 
By ryan koga (kogswell21) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 3:48 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I have inspected the slave solenoid and it seems to have a hair line crack in it from the top to bottom..Can this affect it? I only hand tightened it then 1/4 turn with ratchet..SO Im nbot sure if it came with it or I did it..Needless to say I will replace it again tomorrow too..
 
By liquid ryder (pilot_ryder) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 3:50 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
This may sound simplistic, but a dead battery will produce a clicking sound.
 
By Robb Davis (boarder_x) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 3:52 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
OOppps
image/bmpUpload
electrical.bmp (143.1 k)

 
By ryan koga (kogswell21) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 4:09 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I have 2 batteries with a reading of 13volt average..So Im assuming theyre still good..Thye have been charged with a trickle charger..
 
By ryan koga (kogswell21) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 4:12 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Robb, Cant open up the file...
 
By Robb Davis (boarder_x) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 4:19 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Ya, I can't either (I don't know why). However, it was just a diagram showing the slave solenoid. While I was trying to get it uploaded, you posted that you had found it. Otherwise I would have tried again.

Just to be sure, there is a solenoid attached to the starter. There is a slave to it, that I am referring to.

If you didn't know that, I can then try again to post that pic.

 
By ryan koga (kogswell21) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 4:33 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Yeah all I replaced was the solenoid..So what your saying is the solenoid and slave are 2 different pieces? What does the slave look like?Can you try to post pics? That would be great..
 
By Robb Davis (boarder_x) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 4:36 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Ok, here it is as a jpg. ... Upload
 
By Robb Davis (boarder_x) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 4:38 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Cool. Ok, Part number 19, is the slave. Like I said, it should be on top of your motor. It should have a wire going from it, to the starter solenoid.

I went to Mercury's website for this. The original is 12MB. So, this one has been shrunk quite a bit. You might want to go there, to get a better look.

 
By ryan koga (kogswell21) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 4:53 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
So I tried to run a srcrew driver on the 2 cooper terminals..and it wouldnt start all you would hear is a continuous clicking sound...there is 13 v going to the top terminal..not sur eif that helps.....hmmm what could it be..
 
By ryan koga (kogswell21) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 4:54 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Ok that I have replaced..The clicking was comming from the solenoid though...COuld I have gotten a bad solenoid...thanks rob for the help...
 
By ryan koga (kogswell21) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 4:57 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
although my batteries are at 13v coul dit be it doesnt have enough cranking power..Im just surprised it wont even turn the starter..Hmmm all these problems..
 
By kevin (neffro) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 5:00 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Be sure to check all connections and give them a quick wire brushing. A bad connection can cause this, even if it is tight and looks good it still can be bad. This can happen just overnight also. This is one of the first things you shoud go over with ele. Issues with a boat. Being that there is lots of moisture with boating it is highly likley this my be your problem.
Good Luck!

 
By Machew (mbrown) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 5:12 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Sometimes trickle chargers can go bad and cook your battery, try a battery you know is in good shape or have it tested at a shop. Just something to do before taking parts off. Also do what Kevin said, I had that on a old Merc that didn't have oxyguard on the terminals, always had cranking problems in the beginning of the season from moisture/corrosion.
 
By ryan koga (kogswell21) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 5:15 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
cool Ill look over every connection again and take my batteries to a shop to have them checked out..
 
By Jory Swim (carcrz) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 8:19 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I would guess a bad battery if the bypass method didn't work.
 
By Robb Davis (boarder_x) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 8:27 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I agree with Jory and Machew. Your battery may be bad. If not, jumping the terminals should have alowed the starter to spin.
 
By Druffel (dedicatedwse) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 9:09 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Something doesn't add up. I know just enough to be dangerous but here are my thoughts.

1) You say you are blowing a fuse (or tripping a breaker, not sure which one it is). This doesn't make sense to me. Can anybody else provide some input on this subject?

2) When you bypassed the solenoid you said it was making a continuous clicking sound. If you were truly bypassing it, I would assume you wouldn't hear anything from the solenoid. Are you sure you were getting a good connection with your bypass "tool"

3) I would think a trickle charged battery would at least be able to provide the amps to turn it over a couple times. Question for anyone else...What happens to a battery if it was cooked by a trickle charge? Does it still register proper voltage but not deliver the amps?

I'm tending to agree with what Kevin is saying...bad connection somewhere. First connection to check would be at the battery posts.

 
By ryan koga (kogswell21) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 10:51 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Well it was trippin but not anymore..SO When I tried to bypass the solenoid it would click. I tried it multiple times..Hmm maybe a connection..
1. check all connection
2. take batteries to have them checked.

Could it be I wired the solenoid wrong? Druf Iam puzzled too.The events are inconsistent...Im thinking it is a bad connection..Or actually I hope...I will do some work on it tomorrow and let you guys know the outcome..Thanks...

 
By ryan koga (kogswell21) on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 10:54 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Just thought of this ...Is the starter grounded by the body? If so could it be its not gettinng a good ground?
 
By Jeff Guilford (fogey) on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 2:50 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Thirteen volts doesn't necessarily mean the batteries are okay. I just worked on a car that wouldn't start. The battery read 12.78 volts with no load but dropped to 4.10 volts when you hit the starter. It should not have dipped below 10 volts. A new battery fixed it.
 
By Robb Davis (boarder_x) on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 7:41 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
The starter should be grounded to the "ground post," on the back of the motor. I went to mercruisers website, but I couldn't find a diagram. I have one at home (owners manual,) but I'm at work. ..... Just remembering. I could be wrong! If I remember correctly, though, the battery, and the starter are both connected to that post, so that the system will have a good solid common ground.
 
By ryan koga (kogswell21) on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 8:38 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
I couldnt find a ground wire that would connect to the starter....Will have the batteries tested tonight..
 
By ryan koga (kogswell21) on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 4:05 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Thanks everyone for all the help..I got home cleaned all the connetions thoroughly..Tried to turn it same thing just a clicking sound..I then put the old solenoid in and turned the key to on, then jumped the two terminals on the solenoid..A couple of sparks and wham the motor turned..Hooked up the good old hose and after a few tries the motor stayed on.....What caused this? Was it the bad connection + solenoid?I will try to put the new solenoid back in and see if that works ..I just want to make sure this is totally figured out before I drive 2 hours to the lake..hehehe..
Thanks everyone for all the help..You were all informational..

 
By TJK (swab791) on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 6:17 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Just a little corosion and a loose connection could be the culprit. The BLACK ground that goes to the block could need to be cleaned and reconnected. Sometimes OLD RED postive battery cables need to be replaced with new HIGHER guage wire. A clicking sound from the SOLINOID means LOW voltage or a BAD starter. The SOLINOID is located under the black box on the rear of the motor. Make sure all posts are clean and it is attached/bolted to the block clean. don;t worry you are not the first one to experience this with a FORD 351...it is a easy fix
 
By ryan koga (kogswell21) on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 6:47 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
All is well still need to take my batteries to get them checked out..But thanks for the help!!
 
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