|I know I will probably need to take it somewhere, but was hoping someone might know something I don't or I might be missing something easy. Here is the problem: |
-Brake lights, turn signals, revers lights all work great.
-The running lights and parking lights are not working.
My truck lights seems to be working fine. All of the wiring seems fine on the trailer too from what I can tell. I see one of the marker lights has a slight fray in it, but that should not affect anything but that light correct? Anything glaring out to anyone? I also tested the converter from a 5 flat to a standard 7 pin and it is not that.
Thanks for any help.... want to take it out tonight and bring it home after dark...
|Didn't you just pick that boat up?|
|you would be correct... want to take it out tonight instead of running it to the dealer or uhaul to look at. I think they were working fine before, but can't be sure.|
|buy a new trailer lol did toby have anything to say??? ps the boat looks hottttt!!! |
|Boatmate said it could be a fuse in my truck. I need to check it out. They say there are independent fuses in the truck for each of the operations going to the trailer.... will have to check where to find that....|
|under the hood or inside under the wheel, all of them are really easy to find |
|Diggs- Are you pulling it with a Ford? I had the same problem, turned out to be a fuse under the dash.|
|Dodge.... anyone know where to look so I don't have to open the owners manual??? |
change your name to picpostingwhore suits you better
|By NAW (ripr) on Friday, April 07, 2006 - 8:31 am:
change your name to picpostingwhore suits you better
Don't you have a Dodge, Diggs? I would think the fuses would be down near the drivers kick panel, or under the dash.
How do you like the tint so far? My wife said no to the tint...guess I'll find a new one of those.
|I like it... it is so light it is hardly noticeable. Got 3 hrs on it now. I will have to run outside and check it out once I get a chance.... too busy with work right now... thanks! |
your making me sick of supra.... ok not yet...
|You guys are torchering me. I am jelous enough of those 2 boats and then you post pictures of them on every thread on this site. Are you just trying to torcher me?|
i figured it would actually insite you to post even more... wow do we see a new side of picpostingwhore?
|dislocafinger, Chill out. I think those two boats are awesome but I just dont see it neccesary for you to post the same pictures in 3 different threads.|
|Diggs, Sorry for totally screwing up your thread. Good luck with your wiring problems. I too would guess it is either a fuse or possibly the connector.|
|hey jon it's OK, your cool i'm cool, but tyler is a #@$%^& #$%^&*( $%^&* $%^&*( LOL ps tyler is my bro. he just does not like to tell any one|
|tried the connector already. Unless it is the post on the trailer connecter.... would be rare but possible... running outside to check the fuses now.... praying....|
|good news... there was a 20Amp fuse popped that said battery att on the trailer fuses of the truck. Have not hooked the trailer up yet to confirm, but I am sure that will solve the issue. Thanks for everyones help!!!|
|A volt meter or test light would come in real handy right now. |
I tell everyone, every chance I get that every one should have one or both of these.
A reasonable digital multi-meter can be purchased for around $20. Like this one:
A test light is a simple device that sort of looks like a screw driver with a wire coming out of the back and a light bulb in the handle. Clip the wire to ground then push the point into a circuit that you think should be on. If the light bulb lights, you have power. Here is an example:
The test light is great because it doesn't need batteries, is more rugged than a mult-meter (it will survive getting wet) and is very easy to use. The down side is that it give a "pass/fail" result, you can't use it to tell how good that battery is.
If you have a test light, clip the wire to the frame of the car (finding a good ground on a car is getting hard these days!) then poke the tip into the trailer light connector. Note that the bare connector on the 4/5 pin flat trailer connector (car end) should be ground (if it isn't, that might be your problem!)
Test a circuit that does work (like the turn signal) to make sure that the test light is working and you have clipped to a good ground. This will divide the problem in half: if you have tail lights at the connector then the problem is in the trailer, if you don't the problem is in the car.
If you have a multi-meter test continuity from the trailer connector to ground. The odd pin on the connector (the covered one on the trailer side, or bare one on the car side) should be ground. If you are looking at the connector, and you see that the ground wire doesn't go anywhere (which is actually fairly common) fix that first. Many times the trailer wiring tries to use the hitch as a ground return to the car, but that is very unreliable.
If you have a ground connection then test each of the other connector pins for continuity. Use the "x1" scale on the "ohms" setting (often signified by the Greek "omega" character). For all practical purposes you should read very close to zero ohms. (1 ohm is pretty close to zero!).
If the tail light circuit shows open then either all the bulbs are burned out (unlikely) or there is a wire broken somewhere.
If the car tests out okay and the trailer tests out okay then check the ground between them again.
|If you need a good ground, most of the new dodge bumpers are chrome & will work, or at least it always has for me on my Dodge. If it ends up being a wiring issue, the new Dodge's have the wiring diagram labeled right on the plug for which wire goes where on the trailer. |
|Don't forget that there is always a reason for a blown fuse. |