|I've got a nice Alpine cd player in my VLX. The problem is that I hate flipping up the armrest all the time to turn down the tunes when picking up the boarder. |
As far as I know, Alpine doesn't make a wired remote. I've been thinking of modifying the wireless remote by mounting the infared l.e.d. under the armrest and mounting the remote on the dash somewhere. Has anyone tried this? Any other options? (I don't want to buy another head unit.)
|I've thought about this too. A direct wired remote would be one thing, but if the HU doesn't accept one, then what?? |
I have also thought about what you suggested.
Open up the remote (IR for HU; buy if you don't have)
Remove IR LED at front.
Run wire from mounting location to HU.
Install IR LED in location that will shine on HU face in the right place.
Connect LED to wires
Mount remote body (buttons) in convenient location.
Connect LED wires to remote in original LED location.
Make lead from boat battery to remote (with appropriate voltage reduction)
Hack buttons on remote to be switched by other buttins (ie SANTE dash remote)
You could do the same think with a cheap learning remote, but have the possibility of macros, etc.
Not sure if you would need to boost power from remote to LED over the distances involved here?
Anyone think that this might work??
(Message edited by tdeneka on November 09, 2004)
|PAC Electronics makes a product that will work with your IR remote. Unfortunatly it doesnot work with Clarion products. It took me about 40 hours worth of labor witht the product to figure this out.|
|I did the exact method that thomas just wrote. Did it for two remotes and it works great. There is no need to hardwire power to the remote though. The batteries last forever and are much cheaper then trying to hardwire them using a voltage reducer. I have about 20 feet of wire running from one of the remotes to the led mounted in front of the head unit. No power problems at all. My remotes use 2 aaa batteries. Alpine system. One thing to make sure you do is wire the correct pos/neg configuration on the led when you remove it and then remount it on the extended wires. Test before you solder everything in place. I posted a pic of all this about 2 years ago on this board. Have no idea if it is in the archives still or not.|
|i am atempting to do the same thing with a eclipse unit. here are some idea's that i recieved that might be of interest. |
1. remove the face and do a remote face mount. would have to run a longer ribbon cable between the face and the chassis. this is cool idea if the connection ribbon cable can be easily removed..
2. this next one is similar to what Thomas wrote... modify the ir remote instead of the ir on the face and use a ir repeater /pac ir repeater.
this would involve lengthing the cable eye coming out of the remote and using a repeater.. have to use mount in way that there is no direct sunlight
i am checking into removing the eclpise remote from the plastic case and placing it in a custom pod with a ir repeater - clean install and dont have to worry about the direct sunlight issue.
good luck and let me know what you find out.
|Pick up a volume control at radio shack, stick it in your dash,done!|
|PCS makes a volume control (PCS-1) that is about $30. Mount this under your dash in easy reach, and you can at least turn the volume down. Not as good as the remote, but easier to install. I am putting three on my new boat. One for the sub, one for the tower speakers, and one for the boat speakers.|
|Yall spend way too much time and money on your boats... you guys need a hobby Just Kidding.|
|I thought this was a hobby!|
|i thought it was a hobby too.|
|audio is a hobby too !!!|