|This is my first attempt at winterizing and I think I am almost done. So far I have. |
1. Filled with gas and added Sta-bil
2. Changed oil and filter
3. Fogged engine.
Everything I have read says that it is best to run antifreeze through the engine to make sure all water is flushed out and anything left behind will not freeze. Can anyone tell me how I get the antifreeze circulated through the engine? Thanks for your help.
|if it is a direct drive do this, disconnect the hose you connect the water hose to for land starting. instead of connecting the water hose stick a funnel in this hose and begin pooring antifreeze in, while doing this start the boat and it will keep circulating the anitfreeze. continue pooring until antifreeze exits the back of your boat.|
|Easy way: |
Broswe around they have other systems..
Use it with a fake-a-lake on an inboard or 'muffs on an I/O.
|Here is a place that has the kit for $30 |
|Thanks for the help. Do you recomend leaving the antifreeze in over the winter or should I drain that out as my last step?|
|Leave it in. You already fogged the engine, so dont run the boat agian. There is a drain plug on each side of the block, pull those and make sure they are completely empty. Pull the two plugs on the exhaust manifolds. Then pull the two hoses from the top and make sure all the water is out. Put all 4 plugs back in and then fill the hoses with antifreeze until they over flow. O, one more hose you have to take off with the plugs, where the coolant intake comes from the hull to the engine, remove that from the engine and let that drain too. Put that back on before you put coolant in. good luck.|
|Ditto Mark's post. Leave the anifreeze in all winter. |
If you use an AF with a protectant package (most ethylene glycols), it will minimize corrosion. If you do use EG: read and understand the handling/disposal cautions. Mix it 60% AF, 40% water for maximum protection.
If you use the winterizing kit I linked above, you will need to run the engine to get the AF in. When the container has abouit 1 gallon left in it, start fogging through the carb/TBI until the engine stalls.
Otherwise, Mark's method will work fine with no further investment.
(Message edited by wakecord on October 25, 2004)
|Not running the engine, I fill the block/manifolds as mentioned above too. I also remove the thermostat and pour in antifreeze to make sure the block is full and the thermostat is not blocking the flow. |
As for fogging until the engine stalls...I can't remember where I heard it, but I heard it's not good to do. Something about vapor lock and bent connecting rods.
|With a direct drive with throttle body fuel injection, here's what I do. Disconnect the hose where the water comes in to the boat (behind the transmission on the hull). Fill up a 5 gallon bucket with a 60/40 mix of antifreeze and water and stick the hose down into the bucket and it will suck it up when you run the engine. Run it through until you see antifreeze coming out the exhaust (this may take the first bucket). Fill up a second bucket and repeat. When it is about half empty, start to fog the engine, but not too much. Fogging is so easy, you may as well do it again to do it right. There is no other way to ensure you get antifreeze in every nook and cranny. I have heard many stories of people throwing rods from fogging too much so be careful. Definitely only for about 5 seconds per injector. After you're done, it's better safe than sorry to drain the engine, depending on the strenght of your antifreeze mix. It helps if someone is around to give you a hand. |
|Thanks for all the good advice!|
|Forgot to mention that I pull all the plugs (one at a time) and shoot fogging oil in. I'm pretty sure that direction is on the fogging oil can.|
|Rather than speculate, I thought I'd read the directions. From the Mercury Storage Seal (fogging oil) can: |
> Run engine slowly with proper water cooling and induce 4-6 ounces* of Mercury Storage Seal through each carburetor to stall engine
> Remove spark plugs and spray approx. 1 ounce of Storage seal in each plug hole.
From the Mercruiser manual:
Remove flame arrestor, restart engine while operating at idle, fog internal surfaces by squirting approx. 8 ounces of Storage Seal into carburetor bores. Stall engine by squirting last 2 ounces rapidly into carburetor.
* 6 ounces is approx 1/2 the can.
|Once you drain all the water from the block, you don't have to add antifreeze. If you do add a little for corrosion protection, you should use a biodegradable brand, like "Sierra". Regular coolant is pretty bad stuff, and shouldn't be dumped in the lake, which is what you'll do when you take your boat out next Spring.|
|Time to dispel some myths: |
Think Sierra or RV AF is "safe"? If anyone wants to volunteer to drink some, get back to us with the results. /Sarcasm. Don't try it\.
All glycol antifreeze is toxic, including propylene glycol (e.g.:Sierra). While PG is much less toxic than EG, it is still toxic.
NO antifreeze, regardless of type, should be "dumped in the lake". Be responsible and drain/flush the engine before you take to the lake.
|For all you Indmar powerplant users, here's a link to their website with manuals. Chapter 7 deals with winterization and storage. |
|I was not promoting the use of antifreeze. In fact, I said you don't need it. However, some guys will use it, and if they do, the bio brand would be less harmful. Also, if you use a flush kit on your driveway, whatever is in your cooling system will run into the storm drain and return to the water supply anyway, so that is not the answer either. Do what WakeCord said, and don't go the chemical route.|
|From my post (11/25) above: |
"If you do use EG: read and understand the handling/disposal cautions.
That means draining the engine in the spring and capturing the AF for proper disposal before flushing. Many communiities and some auto parts stores recycle used AF.
Hope this clears things up.
|Never heard of throwing rods from too much fogging oil. I have TBI and use 2 cans at once to get it as close to stalling as possible. I also use the shi% out of it on my 2 outboards. Anyone else heard of that 'side effect' Scary, if true!|
|I used the RV antifreeze and then collected it so I can reuse it this winter. |
You probably also want to pull out your impeller so it doesn't sit in the same "bent" position all winter. Just don't forget to put it back in in the spring (if you just don't replace it each year like some).
I add some rat poison (box of decon)
I put in a heating rod just in case and it should keep it dry inside
Take out the plug if there would be any chance that you'd get a big rain/snow storm that could get into the boat w/ a ripped cover?
Leave seat covers open so air can circulate through the storage areas?
Trickle charger on the battery?
Just a few other things I've heard to do..........