|I have a 2000 Mastercraft X-Star. Where the pylon is on the tower to attach the rope there is a "free-rotating" plastic cylinder to protect the rope from rubbing and fraying. However, the rope moves down to the weld holding the pylon on the tower. Any suggestions on how to keep the rope from rubbing on this weld point?? |
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
|I had the exact same problem. Here is what I did. I heated up the pvc cylinder (bottom part) and flared it so it goes over that weld crap. That way, the rope stays on the plastic rather then creaping down to the metal. To flare it out, I jammed a golf ball in the end while the plastic was hot and waited for it to cool down before taking it out. Golf ball fits perfect. Only stick the golfball in halfway, use a clamp to hold it there. When it cools, the ball just falls out and your plastic has a nice flare to it. Hope this helps|
|Have you contacted Mastercraft? I can't believe how crappy that design is, with nothing to keep the rope up off the weld. Maybe they have an updated sleeve or something. Or can you just bolt an entirely new piece on there? |
The only quick DIY (ghetto) option I can think of is finding a giant washer to at least keep the rope off the weld. What you really want, however, is a sleeve with a large-diameter top, a large-diameter bottom, and a small diameter middle; with smooth transitions in between. Maybe a local machine shop can make you an aluminum one on a lathe?
|Andrew - to be honest, I can't remember if you can remove the "mushroom cap" on the top - were you able to unscrew yours in some way? |
I could look at mine, but it isn't really nearby right now!
ST - Good idea for an "hour glass" shaped aluminum dowel to slide down where the plastic one is now - may be a good possibility.
Thanks to both.....
|ghetto option 2: run a zip-tie thru some surgical tubing (or similar) and snug it around the lower end of the rotating plastic piece to keep the rope off the weld. |
ghetto option 3: slice surgical tubing lengthwise and reinforce the rope at the loop, hold it in place with some zip-ties
ghetto option 4: wet sand the welds
final and most ghetto option: just tie off the rope to the tower with a granny knot, at least you'll have infinite length adjustment that way!
|By cdm (cdm) on Monday, March 22, 2004 - 11:40 am:
|I had a 00' as well but never had this problem. I think my weld was cleaner. Could you file it smooth? |
|There is a allen screw in the top of the cap to take it off. The flanged idea I used does not look that gheto. I did not want to sand or grind down the welds because i felt it may make the weld weak. |
|Thanks again for all the suggestions (even the ghetto suggestions). Since I think the white plastic cylinder doesn't look that great anyway, I think I'm going to go with a machined part. I have a friend who can easily produce this for me, but here's my next question: |
Is there any problem with the machined part rotating on the same shaft that the plastic part was rotating on? Will it wear out in any way?
|Not a good idea using alum. on alum. You are better off having him make you a replacement plastic part with a flared skirt at the bottom for the line to ride on.|
|You can use the old cow boy trick and put a burner on it. Like a lariat's loop has. |
Heavy piece of leather stitched around the base of the spindle. That way the leather wears out and not your rope.
Or replace the damn thing with a real spindle. They make them for water skiing. The spindle has a "self contained" spool with top and bottom rails.
|I agree that Al rotating on Al is not a good idea, however... |
Just have your friend make a piece that totally replaces the cap on top, make it so the whole new spindle slides down over the post and bolts down. Bolt it down with a little Loc-Tite and I doubt that the friction from the rope could put enough torque on the spindle break it loose. If you want to be paranoid though, you could maybe notch the bottom of the new spindle and put a small set screw or perhaps grind a small keyway into the bottom of the post.