|Does anyone know an easy way to rotate the distributor rotor around to the high side so you can gap the points? Do you just keep hitting the key until you get lucky and it ends up in the right place or is there an easier way? I've seen boat mechanics use a handheld switch attached to the starter relay to do this but I don't have one of those. Are they commercially available... are they really neccessary? |
One other quick question, I want to change the fluid in my old (1987?) Velvet Drive transmission. Do these take Dexron III?
Thanks in advance to anyone that can help me get the old boat ready for riding season!
|Jim, The proper way to do this is to remove the spark plugs and place a socket on the crank bolt. Rotate the engine in the direction of rotation until you get to the set point on the distributor. If you don't own a set of feeler gauges you can set your point gap with a matchbook cover and get real close. As to your transmission question the service manual calls for Dexron II type F; however, Borg Warner has come out and said that SAE 30 wt motor oil is acceptable.|
|Jim, Dexron III is ok, especially if you are currently running ATF in the transmission. Here is a great tech site for transmission questions. |
|do your self a favor and convert to electronic ign |
dexron 3 if it fas tranny fluid in there already.
|88 2001 is a smart man!!! |
No doubt, get rid of the points and install the pertronix ignitor. They are availible for everything so don't worry about them not having one for your boat. Never have to worry about moisture in the cap or anything else. Definitley get the pertronix setup.
All you do is use the spacer in it initially and almost never have to do anything to it again.
I put one in my mustang, worked great had no problems with that but then with my fancy MSD it was always something.
Even my new little POS datsun 510, looks like it had never been touched had an pertronix in it.
It's the wave of the future.
I am not a vendor, just like to steer people to the right products. I know how much it sucks to buy something twice.
|Thanks for the advise everyone! |
Dead - why do you have to take out the plugs?
Craig - Cool site, I've got it bookmarked now.
882001 - Did you switch your 2001 to electronic and how much did it cost?
|Easier and more accurate with the plugs out...your not fighting engine compression as you hand roll the engine around. |
This is another source for parts, they also have everything you need to do the conversion.
|jimr, yes the conversion took 20 minutes cost 100 dollars +/- with a new high perfomance epoxy coil. killed a whole bunch of problems. definetly worth it. points are horrible. there is a performance arcicle at vintageperformance.|
|when i sold my nautique i switched the points to electronic ignition and the module went bad in 4 hours. the new owner was mad. i paid for a new one and heard everythings been fine since. 5 dollar set of points was always ok for me but i have to agree electronic is the way to go|
|You can do it without taking out the plugs. You'll only have to turn the engine by hand a small amount. Half inch breaker bar and socket on the crank bolt. The feeler guage will get you in the ballpark, but use a dwell meter to get them on the money. 28 to 32 is acceptable on the dwell meter, but shoot for 28, then as they wear in they'll have four degrees to wear before needing to be re-set. Don't get me wrong I am a big fan of electronic ignition but I have never seen a set of points stop an engine cold like I've seen electronic ignition control modules do. I can always get a set of points working. Your module goes out your done unless you have a spare. And yes it does happen more often than you'd think.|
|IMHO. pertronix units suck. they work , but product quality is (or was) so so. go with another brand of conversion or keep a set of points/condensor on the boat. period. |
i had a pertonix unit in a 914 and threw it as far as could one day.
buy two pertronix or one unilite. my 0.02.