|I was wondering is there any way I could hook a water hose up to my direct drive mobius to start it at my house. I want to charge the battery up and start it at home and get it running real good before I take it to the lake. |
If I can hook up a water hose to a hose that is on the motor some where, please be specific to which hose that is...
|FAKE A LAKE www.overtons.com|
|ok any I can do it without buying something??|
|You could probably rig up a plunger to be like a fake a lake. It would be tricky though. If you're ever down this way, come by our shop and use ours.|
|you could but you could blow your impeller and engine while you're at it. its something you'll need to change your own oil in the future, might as well get one. |
you can go to home depot and get one of the people there to help you make one. all you need is a connector that will fit to your garden hose and whatever adaptors and clamps that will let you attach the other end to the tranny cooler. the home depot folks are usually good at that. you can't really go wrong as long as it fits your hose and doesn't pop off the tranny cooler. there's more than one way to rig it.
the plunger works but you have to crawl under the boat.
|You can pull the hose off of the through hall intake |
and shove a your garden hose into the intake hose. Your intake hose on the through hull fitting is probably just connected with a hose clamp. Real easy.
|Try this: http://overtons.com/cgi-bin/overtons/order/large.cgi?25604 |
A bit more then a fake-a-lake but much easier in the long run. Takes about 15-20 minutes to install and then you just attach a garden hose to it, turn on, and then start your boat. Make sure you know you water inlet size. They sell 1" and 1 1/4" versions.
|Oh, it's called Flush Pro. Sells at Overtons for 59.00.|
|I connect a hose to my water strainer intake, then puth that hose in the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket. Then I put a water hose in the bucket, and fill it up before starting the engine. I have found that the engine can draw more water than my hose can supply, so I usually place the bucket under the exhaust port so I can recover some of the water. This also helps the engine warmup faster as the water is slightly warm, and is better for the environment as you are not wasting so much water. |
When I winterize, i just do the above procedure till the engine is warm, then empty the bucket, and pour in the rv anitfreze, and let the engine suck it through the system. Have not had a problem yet.
Just remember that if you are running more than idle, you might starve the engine for water unless you have a very good supply of water. I also don't like to put a hose directly to the intake, as I don't want to force water into my engine, and possibly cause a hydrolock.
|go with roberts method. |
before you fire it up, take the hose off your raw water pump and spray a little white lube in the hole. throw some wesson cooking oil in if you don't have any white lube.
DO NOT put the boat in gear or you'll toast the strut bearing.
use a 20 dollar battery charger. starting your boat for 10 minutes will not put a complete charge on your battery and will be hard on your charging system.
everyone should be gentle on your motors for 30 minutes or so, untill the winters moisture has cooked/boiled out of the oil. longer if you run a 142 stat. do not take her out and load up the fat sacs first thing.
|Always did the Robert method (without bucket under exhaust though). I find it the best method that the raw water pump sucks it's own water instead of blowing or pushing it into it (connecting a water hose into the raw water pump). Plus it's the cheapest method. |
It's not the easiest method because you will have to keep constant clear that there's water in the bucket. So if you wanna run the engine for 30 minutes, you'll have to stay in the boat for 30 minutes...
|Now if you have a cold water pickup for your shower BEFORE the raw waterpump (impeller) you can connect to that hose. I did that for years with my boat.|
|Anybody who says you can't do it without buying something is wrong. |
Just take the hose off of the output end of the transmission cooler (between tranny cooler and raw water pump) and shove your garden hose down there as far as you can (don't worry it can't enter the raw water pump body). have somebody turn the hose on lightly right before you start the engine to give a little water to the impeller, then open the spigot fully once it is started (this is just to keep water from coming out the open end of the hose and all over the boat).
This is actually the best way to flush the boat out, as it allows the fullest flow from the hose to the engine(versus a flushpro and fake-a-lake) which restrict water flow at the hose connector. If you want to be able to rev the engine out of the water, do the same thing, but put the hose you removed into a bucket with the garden hose in the bucket, then you can rev the engine(not for long) and the raw water pump will just suck more water from the bucket.
At idle, it really doesn't matter how much water is getting through the engine, as long as there is flow. It takes very little water to lubricate the impeller as not to fry it. Even the Indmar manual says you can restrict water flow through the hose to allow the engine to warm up faster.
|I made my own fake a lake out of a plunger and a piece of garden hose. Total cost was 99c. I can't see were the stores get off charging such large amounts for such a simple rubber item. |
|Sid7, whatever you do makesure if plan on running your engine past idle that you do it in neutral because if you don't you'll burn up your strut bushing.|
|yea, if for any reason you need to run the boat in gear (tranny engaged) out of the water you need to keep the thru hull and strut bushing wet, in that case a fake a lake is better because it give the transmission cooler water flow |
|That is one of the reasons i tap in before my raw water strainer. All other components are after the strainer, so I know the trany is getting flushed. That being said, I won't run the boat in gear out of wate because I don't want to ruin by strut or prop shaft. There really is no need to spin the prop, it just would add an extra element of danger.|
|OK---I am a little confused about which hose to disconnect from the motor and put the water hose in. If I am looking at the front of the direct drive motor there are hoses connected to the right side of the compartment that the impeller is in. Is it one of these hoses that I use? there is kinda one on top of the other. |
|What engine do you have? |
This is on my engine, i'm not sure it will be the same with yours.
Find your raw water inlet (thru-hull) follow the hose up (past the strainer if you have one) until you see it end at a cylidrical metal piece with two hoses coming out of it which go to your transmission. On the other end of this cylindrical piece (your transmission cooler) you should find that another piece of hose starts, this should run to the raw water pump. Take the hose off of the raw water pump side of the transmission cooler and shove the garden hose in it. Trying to find pictures right now.
|HOW F'N CHEAP DO YOU HAVE TO BE THAT YOU WOULDN'T PAY A MEASLY $45.00 AND JUST BUY ONE! |
I've had the same Fake a Lake now for nine years.
$45.00/9=$5.00 a year.
Sorry for the bitter attitude, but these posts just drag on, and on, and on sometimes. It's not like he's going to have to take out a loan to buy the fricken thing.
|just to drag on the thread, a cop found my toilet plunger fake-a-lake-fake and was going to bust me for having a bong.|
|How do you use a fake-a-lake when the bunk of your trailer is just about against the thru-hull fitting? |
Sometimes it is not just about being a cheap-a$$, and more about how to get things done right.
If your intake is on a bunk (like mine), pony up the other $20 for a flush-kit, like mentioned above. If you can afford a boat, you shouldn't have any problem buying a $60 part. Just think of it as another tank of gas.
|More importanly how do you use a fake-a-lake as a bong?|
|I could see it working as a beer bong!|
|here's a question |
when you pull your tournament boat out of the water, and it's sitting on the trailer @ the launch..(get the pic) do you let it idle a bit(5-10 seconds) to blow out the water in the engine and cooling so the engine and system doesn't have water sitting in it for periods of time? If you do that the water gets blown out and then the engine sounds loud(since there is no longer water in it) then you shut it off...
I have heard mixed reviews from dealers and other boat owners..some say no..others say that a little blow out totally saves the boat in the long run so that there is no water sitting in the engine..especially if the lake/river is dirty or a little salty from a connection to the ocean..
|By zach (klk) on Thursday, March 18, 2004 - 6:08 pm:
|with mine the manual said to shut it off take it out, the pull the blue plugs, turn the key so the engine trys to crank but doesn't, once. and that was it.|
|My dealer said to have the tow vehicle start pulling you out while the boat is still in gear. As soon as the prop ventelates kill the engine. I would not want to run the engine any longer than that.|
|i bet fake-a-lakes are used plungers |
cliff griffin, who's in your profile picture
|i made my own engine running water thing,and have used it for years. you need 3 pieces of hose. 1 for the garden hose ,1 to connect to the trans cooler in side, 1 for water excess. and 1 y pipe any size. when hooked up, turn on the garden hose ,when your line is full the water will run out the excess side keeping the garden hose from going under pressure, when the engine is running the water will be drawn into the pump. just make your excess side long enough to go outside of the boat. i used to run my boat 1/2 hour hooked up like this during spring tune up. did it for 20 years.worked good. and used this on a nautique boat |