|I use my Super Air in salt water so I have to paint the bottom. During the off season it sits on a float-on trailer, thus it's resting on two long bunks. If I paint the bottom myself I obviously cannot paint where the hull rests on the bunks. Any ideas on how I can safely lift one side up at a time about 6" so I can get under there with a brush?|
|Could you lift it higher from the front and paint 1/2 way down and then lift from the back and paint the rest of the way down. You should have lifting rings on the front and the back. |
I know you can also just jack it up w/ boards running cross ways under the boat and get it off the trailer and paint it and then reverse the process to get it back on. Search on here as I believe someone described the process a while back.....
|I was thinking about using my engine lift to lift the rear of my boat to replace my bunks, so you might be able to do the same thing. My engine lift is rated for 2 tons, so it should be strong enough to lift the rear of the boat. I was also thinking about a chain hoist for the front so I can pull the trailer out from under the boat. |
You should be able to rent a engine lift from an equipment rental shop such as NationsRent or Uninted Renatls.
|Um, just wondering why you would paint a 2002???? You do not need anti-corrosion paint just because you use your boat in salt. If it sits in salt for months at a time(like sail boats) then paint = good. If you keep it on a float the I would advise you to stay away from the copper crap(anti-corrosion paint). Once its on you have to maintain it, meaning you will need to scrape and repaint every season(maybe every other). Save yourself a BIG headache with the paint and just spray your boat off with fresh water after use. If you want to get really anal, use salt-away on it. Nautique uses great gel-coats that will last for year through all kinds of abuse (yes even salt). Hope that saves you years of painting misery |
|No need to paint bottom as Chris said, Don't do it. |
If you had to do it though, block the boat up and then touch it up on the trailer.
|I have a house on a brackish lagoon which leads right out to the salty bay, and eventually to the Atlantic ocean. From April to November the boat is moored right behind my house. (check my profile for a picture) This is super convenient, but it requires me to paint the bottom with antifouling paint. I've been bottom painting boats my entire life, but I've always dry docked my boats on cinder blocks, not a trailer. A can of bottom paint is $30, but it will be x10 that to have my dealer do it. I HAVE TO come-up with a safe way to raise the boat off the bunks so I can get under there with a brush.|
|be careful with the engine lift technique. the engine lift may be rated for the weight, but the engine components themselves and the fixtures that hold the engine to the hull, etc, were not engineered for that maneuver. Maybe you could attach temporary bunks to your trailer that would support the boat at different locations than the stock bunks. A few dollars at a drydock for a few hours on a lift or forklift might go a long way here. There are some nice places to live inland too you know... |
|When I said engine lift, I did not mean to lift the engine, but to use a "engine type" boom lift attached to the lifting rings at the rear of the boat. Under no circumstances sould you lift a boat by its engine.|
|that does make more sense, sorry for the misread.|
|First, I would say to get it on a dry trailer. Trying to paint this on a float could lead to disaster... Once on a dry trailer just put a car or bottle jack between the boat and trailer(a good spot is usually just forward of the prop shaft, right on the trailers cross member), then block up the boat on the trailer to allow painting. Then once dry, move the blocks around and paint the spots where the blocks were. Easy as pie |
Lifting it on the trailer could be a bad idea without some serious planning. An engine lift to lift the rear of the boat would be both hard to find (capacity wise) and dangerous.
Two methods I have used with success:
1) Forklift. I'll bet you can find a warehouse willing to rent you some time in the evening. Some lifting straps or chains to the rings will work and a forklift with a 6000lb capacity would be easy to find. I paid a Home Depot delivery guy his delivery fee once to use the forklift they carry on the back of the truck.
2) A car lift in an autoshop. Use the frame spars since they are adjustable to lift from the lifting rings (from above, not below...there will be plenty of clearance to get off the trailer). The autolift also has safety locks to keep it from falling on you.
|I lifted one of my inboards long ago with the front bucket of a backhoe. I needed to have the trailer repaired and it lifted the boat no problem. I was then able to set it down on some timbers with carpet while the trailer was fixed. Put it back on the trailer the same way.|
|Thanks for the input men. I'll let you know what I finally end-up doing. I was thinking about stacking some cinder blocks on the ground at the very rear of the boat and using one of those hydrolic barrel jacks (with sufficient wood between the top of the jack and the hull) and try to just lift the back end of theboat 6" or 9" or so. Then repeat this process in the front. |