Any web sites or personal projects?
Thank you for all of your help!
|I've built one. Tell me more about your situation and intentions and maybe I can offer some suggestions. Bill Z|
|What kind of boat is it and how far do you plan to jump the boat? JK|
|Dig a hole (or reuse one like we did, or do the ramp into the body of water), dam it up, pump it out, do grade prep, do formwork, pour cement, break out the dam wall. tada! |
50' long, 14' wide at the top, 18' wide at the bottom, 5' riprap at the end to prevent propwash, 12deg slope, 18" deep beam at the top and bottom, rough cement surface (use a rake) for the upper sections to prevent wheelspin.
Pick a dry period for the form prep and cement pour.
Hope this helps. Keith.
(Message edited by keithf on March 08, 2004)
|As a faster way look at pre-cast sections. You still have the same prep work. However, you use about a foot thick layer of crushed rock or concrete as the base. This can be placed under-water and the sections are hooked together just before placement. It works well and is used on many state and municipal ramps in MI. |
|I know that you can pour seawalls right through the water and the concrete displaces the water. Can you pour flatwork through water?|
|No, it must be confined. In order to pour into water, you must have a limited slump - no more than 3" or so. That is very thick. |
It is impossible to finish a flat piece under water and have the mix stay consistent. If is has to be done underwater, precast is the way to go. It is not expensive since it is factory produced and there are economies of scale. You can cast the pieces on land and then lift them on scene, if you don't have a precast plank plant nearby. For reiforcing, use expoxy coated bar. For joints, use SS embeds. For finish, use a garden rake and put in 1/2" deep groves and create a very rough surface.
|I thought this post was finished as the original poster seems to have checked out. Just to add another option, what I did was to form and pour a length on land, push it most of the way in then pour the second length and push it all the way in using a large track hoe. It measures 12'x 48'x 6" with a small curb on the end to prevent rolling off the end. It is located on a waterlevel controlled body of water. works great but have to make sure you are straight. one other thing, during the first push, they tied multiple barrels to the ramp end to take some of the weight off the tip to keep it from digging in too much.|
That is a cool series of photographs. That would be bad news if that back hoe was to slide in. Just curious, how do you get all of that mud out from the former retaining damn wall. Seems like you would be hard pressed to get it out smoothly or does it settle and wash away.
|Keith, Are the PVC guide poles above the water line? Is the last section of concrete smooth?|
|Here's a newer pic - I put a 10' length of smaller PVC into the embedded PVC pipes. The last concrete section is a normal driveway finish - figure if I ever need traction there A) the lake is too low or B) my brakes failed and I need a mask and snorkel to operate the pedals in my jeep. |
I spent 12 machine hours scooping the mud out - ugh! Put stakes every 5' on both sides as markers to give me a pattern to work. Working close to the edge is more than a little "interesting"... especially with land that soft...keeps you "awake".
Got it between 6' and 8' deep in most places - prop wash will even it all out. A triangular section in the middle is only 4' deep right now, as I did not reach full depth down the middle all the way out to deep water, due to the arc of the boom/bucket curl. Plan to rent a larger unit in Summer, once the land is a bit drier....and my budget recovers... then it's time for bulkheading...
Hope this helps! Keith.