|Ok... I am now to the wiring stage of my ballast project and not overly familiar with what goes where( basic knowledge is about it.) .. here is my plan and if i could get some help from here that would be great.: |
Jabsco Ballast Puppy pump. It already has 10g wire coming from pump. I plan on extending that to 20A auto Relays..then to the switch as well as a 20A resetable push button circuit breaker(like the rubber button covered ones on the dash) Now these pumps use reverse polarity to run in forward and reverse. they come with pre wired (10g) switches (on off on) that have the wires connected in the back of the switch.
My question is.. Since I am using 20A resetable circuit breakers for each switch do i need the 20A auto relays too? and if i do, what kind of relay to buy?... what is the sequence of wiring..??? battery to switch to circuit breaker(only a hot lead to the breaker right?) to relay to pump?.. is that correct?.. or forget the relay and go power(battery pos/neg) to switch to circuit breaker(pos only) to pump?... (easier) .. forgive my ignorance... and thanks in advance...hopefully someone can figure out what I am trying to accomplish or has put these pumps and switches in .After reading all the past posts, i am still a little confused... I know i need to use big wire(10g due to the draw and run of wire form front to back and sometype of circuit breaker(resetable) and some have used relays some havent..but couldnt find how to put together all 4(pump,relay,breaker,switch,power)
|breakers need to be the first item in line from the battery. |
i would run your pump circuit(s) seperate from your boat harness AND make a permanent diagram, laminate it and toss it in the glove box for future owners.
you have a double pole double throw switch that is rated for the pump? or a single pole with relays?
|The on-off-on switches are for forward and reverse. |
Put relays from each "on" of the switch to the pump. Two total.
on switch-relay-forward. on switch-relay-reverse.
The relays should have a wiring diagram with them. Power in, power out, ground and power in from remote switch. You will need 12v power at the on-off-on switch to power the relay switch. And the relay will have its own power as well. Take the large wire to the relays and pick up any 12v source for the on-off-on switch.
|i have the switches that came with the pump..pretty cool.. say fill /off/ empty. and they are pre wired with connections spliced together to reverse... so there are 4 total wires off the back of the switch pos(red)/neg(White)/Spliced (2 into 1)orange(to pumps orange wire) and spliced (2 into 1)black(to pumps black wire) all 10g wire.. so.. do those wires go directly to the pump?.. or make a stop at a relay(or 2) with the red wire going to the battery positive making a stop at a 20A resetable pushbutton fuse and the white going straight to ground(battery) ?.. do i have this correct... the only question being do I need or want 20A or 30A auto relays inline to the pumps...?|
|Most lighted rocker style switches are not rated at 30amps, thus the relay. See what they are rated at. I would still say you would need relays. Most systems are designed with relays to take the load off the switches. Maybe your switches are rated at 30amps.|
It sounds like you are getting close on your project.
To use the switches that came with your pumps:
Switch wire RED to positive lead from battery
Switch wire YELLOW to ground wire from battery
Switch wire ORANGE to orange wire on pump
Switch wire BLACK to black wire on pump
The switches provided with the pumps are made to handle the current draw of one pump. If you wire one pump per switch, you should be fine. Mine work just fine wired like this with no heating of the switch from excessive current running through it. Do not run more than one pump off one switch.
The sequence for wiring should be something like this: Battery positive – circuit breaker – wire to switch – switch – wire to pump. Battery ground – wire to switch – switch – wire to pump. Remember, these are reversing switches so both positive and negative need to go to the correct wires on the switch.
Also remember to use ample sized wire. If the wire length is longer than about 10 feet, use a larger gauge wire. At least consult a wire chart for wire size, and always be conservative.
When you try you system out for the first time, you may find that your pumps “run backwards” to your switches “drain” and “fill”. If this is the case, you can turn the pump around – so that the water direction is reversed, or you can reverse the red and yellow wires at the switch.
Good luck, Geoff
|just what I was looking for Geoff... THANKS ALOT.. glad I dont have to mess with the relay thing... going to go from switch to pump, using one switch per pump..... I thought they would be ok since they are 20A switches and 12-18A draw pumps... using the wires off the switches are 12G according to the chart. i can continue to use 12g to the pump(less than 15foot run from switch to pump(driver to just in front of the engine on a Vdrive).is this what you used? 12G?.also.. to avoid me having to hook up the pumps to see which direction they flow.. if you are looking down at the diamond shaped brass coverplate.. with the feet facing you... does the water flow right to left or left to right.. i could just hook up some hose.and a battey, .but if you knew then that would save me the trouble and I could mount and wire them the right way the first time.. |
Thanks again..it sure help a whole lot having someone who installed these right and knows exactly what i am trying to do with the same stuff you used.. I appreciate it alot.. Brian.. I will let you know how it turned out.. should be done soon..
I used 8 gauge (positive and negative) from the battery to distribution blocks to feed the three swiches. I used 12 gauge between the switches and the pump. All of the wire I used was "marine" grade. Marine grade wire is different than common stranded wire, it is made to handle the stress of the marine environment - vibration, pounding, etc... All of my connections were either soldered and shrink tubed, or high quality bare crimp connectors with shrink tube.
As for pump direction, my best suggestion would be, just as you said, use a temporary connection and test it. Then do a proper final connection. I did this and still got one pump wrong, and had to rewire it - not one of my best moments.
Use the same care on the "liquid" side. I hate leaks, so I sealed every connection. I sealed all pipe fittings with teflon pipe thread sealer, and all hose fittings were sealed with 3M 5200 sealer. I got the 3M 5200 sealer at Lowe's.
It sounds like you are doing an excellent job. I hope you will be as happy with your system as I am with mine.
Good luck, Geoff