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WakeWorld Discussion Board » >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive » Archive through April 01, 2004 » battery isolator « Previous Next »
By Chris Wilson (willy) on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 1:03 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I am looking to add a second battery, and I was almost set on using a hellroaing combiner/isolator, but I found this is site www.surepower.com/pdf/ebr_int.pdf I have found them on the internet from $55 to $80, which is half of a hellroaring.

Please let me know you thoughts?

 
By Geoff Maus (bluemalibu) on Monday, March 01, 2004 - 10:12 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Chris,

When I added a second battery to my boat, I started out with a Surepower isolator. It did work in that it seperated the starting battery from the second battery, and it allowed both batteries to charge - "sort of". The problem I had, was that the Surepower isolator did not allow full alternator voltage to the batteries. This is typical diode type isolators. The voltage drop that I experienced was about .8 volts. For some, this might not be an issue, but for my boat and stereo system it was a problem.

I installed the Hellroaring system, and it works just as I need it. The starting battery gets priority charging, then the auxillery battery gets charged. Full alternator voltage goes to the batteries for charging.

One of the things I like best about it, is that it is "transparent" to the operation of the boat. This means that my wife can take the boat, listen to the stereo untill it stops playing, and the boat will still start. No having to remember to turn switches on or off.

For how my wife and I use our boat, the Hellroaring system was money well spent.

Geoff

 
By richard holmgren (gundogg) on Monday, March 01, 2004 - 10:38 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
I too am interested in the Hellroaring system...which setup do you have. I have looked at their site and it has a couple of different systems explained, with regards to switches and battery operation. I am not sure which setup would be best
 
By Migitty Matt (migitty) on Monday, March 01, 2004 - 10:55 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
I have a Hellroaring in my boat and I have been very happy with it. See pic.

Isolator

 
By Doubleup (doubleup) on Monday, March 01, 2004 - 3:11 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
how hard was it to install?
 
By Chris Wilson (willy) on Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 4:44 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
I know this may be a stuipd question, but voltage drop (ie. 0.8 volts) typical with a diode, just causes the battery to not get a full change, which results in a dead battery faster, is this correct?
 
By Geoff Maus (bluemalibu) on Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 10:06 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Chris,

Yes, the voltage drop is an indicator that the batteries are not getting a full charge, and they will go dead sooner. It also means that battery life could be reduced - because they are not being charged properly. In addition, it means that all electrical equipment is running on reduced voltage.

For me, an important aspect was that I run a pretty good sized stereo system, and voltage drop is not a good thing. In simplified terms, at a lower voltage, it takes more current to make the same power. Running higher current through the stereo amps to produce the same output means the amps run hotter... all bad. Reduced voltage effects the other electronics also.

If you are adding a second battery as a redudant battery for starting safety, maybe a diode system could be okay. If you need the second battery to perform, that is where the Hellroaring system comes in.

For me the Hellroaring system has been great, I have the BIC300. The 300 is for the amperage it can handle. When I bought it, I thought it was overkill, as my stock alternator was only 51 amps. I have since added dual alternators for a total of over 175 amps (measured).

The Hellroaring isolator has allowed me to "grow" my system, and still have a large safety factor. The Hellroaring isolator has allowed me to create a redundant charging system with priority to the "main" battery. The Hellroaring sytem is very flexible, you need to really think about what you need out of your charging system, and how you are going to use it. From there, you make your choices on how you wire it.

For me, I needed:

As close to zero voltage drop as possible.

Total seperation of the stereo system (including batteries) from the "main" battery - when the engine is off.

The system needed to work without any input from a person on the boat.

It needed to be flexible, for upgrades.

Hope this helps, Geoff

 
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