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WakeWorld Discussion Board » >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive » Archive through April 01, 2004 » 2nd Battery for stereo « Previous Next »
By MAtt weaver (dream_weaver) on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 12:05 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
For those of you who have suggested buying a second battery for insurance against being stranded with a dead battery because your stereo ate it up, how do you link in the new battery? Will this not create a need for a bigger alternator, if it is now having to charge two batteries? Thanks!
 
By Karl De Looff (boarditup) on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 1:17 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Go to West Marine. They have an isolator/charger setup. Also, buy a switch with a 1,2,or 1+2 setting so you can select if something goes bad. It should run under $300 for the battery, switch, and charger.
 
By Neil fett (bigasswake) on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 1:18 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
http://www.hellroaring.com/bic75150.htm

No need for a bigger alternator unless its only rated at 50amps

 
By flying frenchman (wegotbikes) on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 7:23 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Is it possible to just wire 2 batteries in parallel?
 
By Shawn Ulsrud (thunderstruck) on Friday, February 27, 2004 - 7:57 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Spend the money for the west marine battery combiner 50 (model 143268). Inside is a diagram for a dual battery setup. The combiner monitors both batteries and charges as needed. The 1/2/both/off battery switch works good if you remember to turn the switch each time you stop to crank the stereo. If left in the both position you will drain both batteries and be without starting power. A alternate setup is THREE on/off switches, one to the starting battery, one to house battery (both of them will be in the on position all the time unless you have a fire or just want to kill the power for maint. The third will go between the two batteries and be in the off position unless you need to combine both batteries for engine starting. The combiner will do the rest. The battery combiner is around $80.00 and each on/off switch is around $25.00 plus wires and ends. If you have an older boat you will want to get a ZapStop $30.00 for your alternator, you can damage your Alt. if you turn one of the switches while the boat is running. There are other setups but this is what worked well for me.
 
By Garrett J Gross (waken23v) on Saturday, February 28, 2004 - 2:28 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
I did the same as Shawn (Combiner + 3 switches) and feel very safe with the set up. It is really easy to forget about switch settings when out for a fun weekend. Having two dead batteries sucks twice as bad. With the 3 switches and the combiner, no worries. I was a little supprised on home much I spent on cables and other misc parts.
 
By Sparky Jay (wake_upppp) on Saturday, February 28, 2004 - 5:34 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
I just wired the second battery in parallel, no switches, isolaters, combiners. Then I bought a 900 amp jumper box that fits nicely under my passenger seat for $60. I have a 800 watt rms/continuous stereo system. Allthough i don't sit for hours and play the stereo, so far I have not had to use the jumper box once. The stock alternator has had no problems keeping up. In the winter I leave a 1.5 amp trickler hooked up so the batts never run down or need a charge. This whole system has worked flawlessly for going on three years now.
 
By wuneyewilly (wuneyewilly) on Saturday, February 28, 2004 - 6:58 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Guys, how do you go even bigger though. I currently have a 2 batt, 2 amp, isolater setup. Now I want to run another batt and 2 more amps...all Fosgate 1000 watt'ers, which are notorious for being pwr hungry. So how is this done? Do I need the 3rd battery? Could it all run on just the separated blue top?
 
By Shawn Ulsrud (thunderstruck) on Saturday, February 28, 2004 - 8:20 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Wuney
Run your two house batteries in parallel and starter battery seperate from them. If you go with the battery combiner as I did you will have to move up from the 50 series to the 150 series. you will also need to install one major size alternator and it will cost you some coin. No matter what setup you do "INSTALL A SWITCH"! Those kind of power hungry amps just increase your odds of an electrical fire. If you can't cut the power you can't put out an electrical fire! There is a reason switches are installed on larger boats (They have multiple batteries!) The day may come that all boats have to have a power diconnect of some sort, till then be smart.

 
By Sparky Jay (wake_upppp) on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 8:25 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Amps have thermal shut offs. A fuse installed closest to the power source is safer than any switch.
 
By Shawn Ulsrud (thunderstruck) on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 10:25 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
Hey sparky
My point that you are missing is in regaurds to saftey. There are lots of ways to install dual batteries, some people us the Hellroaring combiner others use a selenoid and some just wire it up and go. They all work. The problem with not wiring in a switch is that you have no way to cut the power in case of an electrical fire! Adding multiple batteries increases the problem if you have a short or meltdown. I would not put all of my faith into a thermal shutoff or fuse, these are piece of mind and need to be installed for a reason BUT THEY CAN FAIL! I don't know of anyone who had a switch fail, it is something the person can shut down themselves. Being in the middle of the lake with an electrical fire is some scary stuff. You hit the fire with an extinguisher and it keeps flaming up, that's because the battery is fueling the fire with current. You spend a lot of money for a boat and stereo, spend a little more and be safe, that's all I'm trying to say.

 
By Randy Gillar (rgillar) on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 11:18 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
I have a stupid question. Since the Amp draws the most power, would it make sense to wire the amp up to the 'stereo' battery and leave the starter and other stereo equipment on the primary battery. Then you could wire the batteries in parellel?
Just wondering

 
By Shawn Ulsrud (thunderstruck) on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 1:18 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
If you just wire the batteries in parellel and do nothing to isolate them, they will draw from one another. When this happens the battery with more juice will be drained until equalized with the other battery. The trick is to isolate starting from house battery and then be able to charge them from one source i.e. your alternator.
 
By Sparky Jay (wake_upppp) on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 4:39 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Right, but under normal use both batts will drain and charge equally unless you install two different types of batts. And all I was saying was a switch cannot switch power off upline of itself. It's only shutting power off past the switch. The best guarantee is like I said... a fuse or fuseable link as close to the power source/battery as possible PERIOD. And yes your right I do spend alot on my boat, but i also have full replacement/coverage insurance just in case. Here's the bottom line, in order for any power cut-off device to be totally effective, it must be installed no more than a foot from the battery connection. That's why stereo shops install fuses close to the battery. That's why auto manufactures install fuses, relays and fusible links close to the battery. And yes switches do fail just like anything else so i guess you would need a switch for the switch eh? (sarcasm) Shawn, maybe you can explain to me how a fuse or fusible link can fail, it takes a certain load and then it "blows", and power is shut off...sounds pretty foolproof to me.

(Message edited by wake_upppp on February 29, 2004)

(Message edited by wake_upppp on February 29, 2004)

 
By Sparky Jay (wake_upppp) on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 4:42 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Randy, you would still need an isolater or Perco switch between the two. Otherwise both batts drain equally.
 
By Shawn Ulsrud (thunderstruck) on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 5:53 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Sparky
We are talking about two differnt things here. You are correct in using an inline fuse close to the battery (install 101). I am talking about a manual power cutoff. Your first line of defence is the fuse and thermal cutoff, your last line of defence is the on/off manual switch. I am not as concerned about who will pay for the repairs of my boat as I am my passangers (includes my two lazy dogs). My point from the beginning has been that of saftey, that's all. That is why the ABYC recommendations are that boats with more than 800CCA have a battery isolation switch. Another topic for another day could be that of battery drainage and charging. For now lets all think about the "Hot Chic" in the Reef shorts ad in last months Wakeboarding Mag.........WOW!
good throwin it up with ya!
Beer Time!
Later

 
By Shawn Ulsrud (thunderstruck) on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 6:10 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
Sorry Sparky just saw the last addition to your post. A fuse can get a surge of power and actualy have a meltdown of sorts and fusing solidly together. I know thats is a bad description but there is a name for when that happens, someone will know what it's called. You can also have other fires that begin without having a short that would blow the fuse at all. Overheating and meltdown of a wire or connection, faulty part, fire began by explosive fuels and an electrical fire to follow. I just like to have a manual shutdown of the power source. This is not some idea of my own, this is a saftey issue talked about in many publishings and used on boats that come from the factory with a battery banks. I have chosen to follow the manufacturer's lead and install a switch system on my boat.

 
By Sparky Jay (wake_upppp) on Sunday, February 29, 2004 - 7:03 pm:    Edit Post Delete Post
If it was such a safety issue as you say, why would'nt all boats have a power shut off? Heck why not all vehicles in general. I'll tell you why, there's very few cases where a cut off switch would of helped that much anyway. Do some research and you'll see I'm right. If you feel secure with all your switches, hey more power to ya (no pun intended). However, to me it is not a must have item when adding a second battery that's all. And just for the record, in my 25 years of working with vehicles and electrical systems for a living, I have never seen this "fusing solidly together" example of a fuse malfunction that you speak of.

(Message edited by wake_upppp on February 29, 2004)

 
By Shawn Ulsrud (thunderstruck) on Monday, March 01, 2004 - 4:14 am:    Edit Post Delete Post
OK Sparky
 
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